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  1. #361
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Electrics done !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've finally got the electrics all done and dusted, but its all set up and works as it should. Just needs the drive belt sorting out and then I can get on with making some of the other bits needed.

    03-11-2020-001.jpg 03-11-2020-002.JPG

    Now I've found the rivnuts and got them fitted into the mounting plate and the box mounted, I can get on with bending the plate to form a 90 degree angle.

    03-11-2020-005.jpg 03-11-2020-004.jpg 03-11-2020-006.jpg

    These pictures show the internals of the box and the wiring. The mains comes in on the right hand side with the frame earth connection down the between the motor direction change switch and the socket to the box securing screw. Live from the IEC socket goes to the illuminated power switch and from there to the middle terminals of the direction switch. The motor connections goes to the outer terminals of that switch along with the capacitor wires. The motor wiring coming in via the clear protective tubing.

    03-11-2020-008.jpg 03-11-2020-007.jpg 03-11-2020-003.JPG

    These last three pictures show the general layout of the wheel head and the X - Y table.

    The threaded rod has yet to be finished off so that the wheel head can be adjusted height wise. At the moment it is just resting in the bearing at the bottom.

    That is all for now, thanks for looking ! Your comments are appreciated !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #362
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Looking great John!

    Steve

  3. #363
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Dural NSW
    Age
    82
    Posts
    1,203

    Default Very Innovative Work

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Well I've finally got the electrics all done and dusted, but its all set up and works as it should. Just needs the drive belt sorting out and then I can get on with making some of the other bits needed.

    03-11-2020-001.jpg 03-11-2020-002.JPG

    Now I've found the rivnuts and got them fitted into the mounting plate and the box mounted, I can get on with bending the plate to form a 90 degree angle.

    03-11-2020-005.jpg 03-11-2020-004.jpg 03-11-2020-006.jpg

    These pictures show the internals of the box and the wiring. The mains comes in on the right hand side with the frame earth connection down the between the motor direction change switch and the socket to the box securing screw. Live from the IEC socket goes to the illuminated power switch and from there to the middle terminals of the direction switch. The motor connections goes to the outer terminals of that switch along with the capacitor wires. The motor wiring coming in via the clear protective tubing.

    03-11-2020-008.jpg 03-11-2020-007.jpg 03-11-2020-003.JPG

    These last three pictures show the general layout of the wheel head and the X - Y table.

    The threaded rod has yet to be finished off so that the wheel head can be adjusted height wise. At the moment it is just resting in the bearing at the bottom.

    That is all for now, thanks for looking ! Your comments are appreciated !
    Well done John
    Bruce

  4. #364
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Motor capacitor changed !

    Hi Guys,

    When reviewing my pictures I noticed that the motor start/run capacitor was pushing out the on/off switch which I didn't like so I've replaced it with a 5 uf 400 VAC film cap. Its the large black one next to the on/off switch.

    05-11-2020-002.jpg 05-11-2020-001.JPG

    Much better than the switch hanging out the front.

    Thanks for looking.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #365
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Wheel Head Height Adjuster Finished.

    Hi Guys,

    I've been doing some more work on getting the TCG wheel head height adjusting mechanism finished and working.

    09-11-2020-003.JPG 09-11-2020-005.jpg 09-11-2020-004.JPG

    09-11-2020-002.JPG 09-11-2020-001.JPG

    These are some pictures of the top bracket for the height adjuster. Its the same as the bottom one apart from the ball race size 15 mm diameter with a 6 mm bore and 5 mm thick. The top three pictures show the 12 mm diameter split collet and the 20 mm bored hole for the support column.

    The lower two pictures show a piece of 6 mm diameter ground rod representing the 6 mm turned down top of the M10 threaded bar that is being used for the height adjusting screw.

    The idea is that the whole wheel head can be rotated and locked in any useful position, so at a pinch the machine could be used as a small surface grinder.

    09-11-2020-010.jpg 09-11-2020-008.jpg 09-11-2020-009.JPG

    These three pictures show the top and bottom brackets and the adjusting screw.

    09-11-2020-007.JPG 09-11-2020-006.jpg

    In these pictures you can see the Allen key in the locked and unlocked position of the split collet securing the wheel head mounting block.

    The small chuck is just a temporary thing to adjust the height until I can get around to making the knobs for the various adjustable spindles.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #366
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Height Ajuster Knob Done !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now finished the knob for the height adjustment lead screw.

    10-11-2020-001.JPG

    I parted off a 12 mm thick slice of 50 mm aluminium bar to make the body of the knob and turned and drilled a piece of 1/2" inch diameter aluminium rod to make the winding handle. The handle is countersunk on one end to accept an M6 countersunk hex screw which is used as the pivot for the handle. The screw only goes down about 8 mm into a partially threaded hole. I knurled three rings into it.

    The knob body has three 10 X 32 threaded holes, each 120 degrees apart, with hex grub screws to grip the central shaft.
    I've just realised that I haven’t shortened the shaft on the M10 lead screw.

    10-11-2020-005.jpg 10-11-2020-002.JPG 10-11-2020-003.JPG

    Some pictures of the completed adjuster.

    10-11-2020-004.jpg

    For completeness there is a 12 mm diameter Belleville washer between the support bracket and the adjustment knob.

    Now to get on with some other bits

    Thanks Guys ! Your support is appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #367
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Height Ajuster Knob Shaft Shortened !

    Hi Guys,

    When I did the last post I had forgotten to trim the threaded adjustment leadscrew for the height adjustment knob. I also forgot to post the picture of the top where I had machined a groove for the grub screws to fit into, so they didn't damage the shaft surface and prevent the knob being removed.

    12-11-2020-001.jpg

    This is the shortened leadscrew shaft along with the top bearing. You can see the top bracket and knob in the background.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #368
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Work Holder Knob done !

    Hi Guys,

    Today’s effort has been to make the knob for the work holder angle adjustment screw. This knob is used to turn the circular disc that the work holder is mounted onto in order to set the angle of grinding.

    12-11-2020-004.JPG 12-11-2020-003.jpg 12-11-2020-002.JPG

    The knob was made from a short length of aircraft grade 1 inch diameter bar held in the three jaw chuck. It was drilled 5 mm and then using a woodwork router bit scalloped to give it the shape that you see. This scalloping was needed in order to clear the steel frame of the angle adjustment support.

    12-11-2020-007.jpg 12-11-2020-005.JPG 12-11-2020-006.JPG

    These three pictures show the 5 mm diameter shaft and the unfinished knob being tried on the adjuster shaft. You can see in the middle picture that the clearance could only be achieved by scalloping the rear of the knob.

    12-11-2020-009.jpg 12-11-2020-008.JPG

    These pictures show the finished knob and the range of angles that can be achieved by turning the adjustment knob. The large brass screw is used to hold the ER25 collet chuck in place whilst in use.

    12-11-2020-011.JPG 12-11-2020-010.JPG

    This is the finished knob. It is held in place by a single 10 X 32 Allen hex grub screw. I placed a rubber bead under the grub screw to prevent damage to the shaft by the dog point of the screw. Actually I touched the point off on the DE grinder to make the end flat.

    The knob was held on a 5 mm diameter mandrel whilst it was knurled. The marks that you can see on the back of the knob were caused by the edges of the chuck jaws whilst knurling.

    There are a number of small adjustments yet to be made on this part before it can be considered finished.

    Thanks for your support Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #369
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Work holder angle lock !

    Hi Guys,

    I've stripped the work holder down in order to cut the slot in the rotating plate for the lock screw.

    12-11-2020-007.jpg

    This is the rotating plate !

    13-11-2020-007.jpg 13-11-2020-008.jpg

    Here it is on the rotary table on the mill, having a 1/4" slot cut into it for the locking screw. The stainless steel mounting plate has got an M6 threaded hole in it for the screw. The cap screw and washer is there just to protect the bearings. There are two 6 mm bore ball races back to back which are a press fit in the bore.

    I'll take some more pictures when I've got the parts ready to re-assemble.

    Thanks everybody for looking, your support is appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #370
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Work holder reassembled !

    Hi Guys,

    After cutting the slot for the locking bolt and parting off the excess material on the end of the collet holder sleeve I've reassembled it ready for placing back onto the X - Y table.

    14-11-2020-001.JPG 14-11-2020-002.JPG

    These are the front and rear views of the complete work holder along with the knob fitted to the worm spindle and the locking screw in the curved slot. The cap screw is an 20 mm long M6 one.

    14-11-2020-003.jpg

    This is with the ER25 20 mm diameter shaft collet holder in place secured with the large brass knob screw. I've made provision for two more screws in the body should they be needed to stop the collet from rotating under load.

    14-11-2020-004.jpg

    This view is of the whole TCG with the work holder mounted on the rotatable base plate. The silver tin lid sat on top of the electrics box is one that I've salvaged to make a shield to go around the grinding wheel.

    14-11-2020-005.jpg 14-11-2020-007.jpg 14-11-2020-006.jpg

    Some pictures of the view from above showing the whole assembly rotated right and left. Again I've used an M6 cap screw to provide the locking. You may notice that the grinding spindle is too far forward and the table is wound right back. However there is still a lot of work to be done here including making a knob for the table leadscrew.

    Well that all for now folks, thanks for your comments and support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #371
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Wheel Hub !

    Hi Guys,

    I've spent this afternoon doing a drawing of the proposed wheel hub !

    TCG-Wheel_Hub-01.png
    The hub is intended to slide onto the grinding spindle shaft and be secured by three grub screws. The wheel will be fitted onto the hub over the threaded part with a spacer collar and a threaded ring to secure it. The threaded locknut will have two pin holes for a pin spanner.

    I intend to machine a pair of non locking tapers to ensure alignment. All comments welcome.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #372
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Looking good John.
    Something I noticed on either my grinder is that the hub taper has a gap in it - ie the taper has been cut then relieved in the middle so that only the start and end of the taper contact. Not sure what the reason is.

    Steve

  13. #373
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Thanks for your post.

    I'm not sure why the taper should have a relief in its surface, I would have thought that contact across the full face would be desired.

    About the only thing that I can imagine, would be if the taper surface was very long and difficult to machine in one go, or to prevent or reduce locking. But I think that is an angle thing.


    The 48.4 Degrees that I am using was arrived at by using the angle from those two edges, the back edge being used as a reference. As long as both the angles match it doesn't matter if its a degree or so out.

    The only reason that I'm using a taper there, is that I want to make a couple of spare wheel holders that I know will always go back on true.

    In fact at the moment I'm figuring out how to construct gauges to ensure that both male and female tapers match each other. Its really difficult to set the tool at the correct (matching) angle for machining each half. Setting the compound angle to the marks is the easy bit. Making sure the tools are ground with matching angles isn't ! But then I could be going at it the wrong way.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #374
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    I just use normal turning tools for tapers. Nothing special about the angles.
    Not sure if you’ve seen any of Joe Pieczynski’s videos on YouTube, but he’s got a good one on setting accurate angles on the compound using a DTI.

    Steve

  15. #375
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Hi John, the wheel hubs on my Repco T&CG would be much the same as Steves hubs, they are relieved in the centre.
    I believe this is to support the hub at each end to reduce the chance of the hub rocking on a bit of of dust or debris.
    I had to make a longer one today to get a cup wheel over the centre of the table on my radius grinding gadget.
    My hubs have about a 14 deg included taper, i set up one of the existing hubs and used an indicator to dial in the topslde.
    To get accurate angles for your top slide, if your lathe isn't too sloppy, dial in your top slide on an accurate piece of stock held in the chuck, then you should be able to dial in the side of a tool holder parallel to the axis of the lathe. Then you can use a sine calc and indicate on the side of the tool holder the angle of the topslide over a distance of travel of the saddle using a dro or even a 2" travel dial indicator, sine calc https://littlemachineshop.com/mobile/sine_bar.php
    Its a bit of mucking around but it might be an option for you...

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