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  1. #346
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    54
    Posts
    1,262

    Default

    Looking good.
    Iíve got the same size/type of bar and yes, they do sing!
    I really need a 16mm one as I had to use it for a 80mm deep 20 diameter hole recently. Only needed a couple of 0.5mm cuts but the flex even with that DOC was significant. Two spring passes took the hole from not even close to getting the pin in - straight to being quite a sloppy fit. Caught me out a bit.

    Steve

  2. #347
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Thank you for your post !

    I went and bought this one, not because I needed a boring bar, but because of the number of people that insist that they are the best thing ! So I thought that I would use it on this job with it being a deep hole and starting from a 16 mm drilled hole. I must confess that I tried all the tricks that I knew to shut it up, the most effective in reducing the singing being a heavy cut of 25 thou. I even put a brand new insert in, but it made no difference.

    I expected the hole to become tapered, but using a pair of spring callipers, I really couldn't tell the difference from one end to the other. So I persevered with trying to find a sweet spot.

    If I'm honest I have a 12 mm square HSS boring bar which I could have used when I got the bore size to 17 mm diameter. As it happens the 20 mm end mill that I was using as a plug gauge went in the bore but was very tight, I ended up knocking it out with a piece of 1/4 rod down the spindle.

    Since I had already moved the cross slide I resorted to a piece of dowel and a strip of 600 grit emery cloth and oil. The result was a very nicely polished bore that runs up and down the mounting column comfortably, with just a smear of oil.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #348
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Thumbs up More work on the motor mounting !

    Hi Guys,

    I've been doing some more on the motor mounting block and motor support plate.

    28-09-2020-006.JPG

    I marked out the column side of the motor mounting block and drilled the four 5 mm holes 15 mm deep, M6 tapping size and proceeded the to tap the threads in them being careful not to break the tap by hitting the bottom of the blind holes. I took the sharp edge of the threaded holes with a countersink tool.

    28-09-2020-007.JPG 28-09-2020-005.JPG

    After drilling and threading the motor mounting block, I marked out and drilled the aluminium plate with the four 1/4" diameter holes and counter sunk them to suit M6 hex countersunk screws. The four holes in the corners of the plate are sized to suit the mounting holes in the Parvalux motor feet.

    28-09-2020-008.jpg

    This picture shows the assembly of the mounting block and the motor mounting plate.

    I need to work out the fastening details for the grinding spindle mountings that will be on the other side to the motor. I'll post those details later.

    Now onto the next job !

    28-09-2020-003.JPG 28-09-2020-004.JPG

    One of the items that is needed is the split cotter that will be used to lock the motor mounting block to the column. The second picture shows how the split collet will grip the column when it is in place inside the motor mounting block.

    As you will have seen in the previous pictures, the 12 mm diameter steel pin was placed in the hole in the motor mounting block before the hole for the column was machined. In order to do this the pin was drilled right through with a 5 mm drill and the ends threaded M6 to enable cap screws to be fitted to secure it.

    After machining the 20 mm hole for the column the pin for the split cotter was removed and cut in half so that the scallop was equal on both sides. Then one half of the pin had the threads completed all the way through the pin. The other half of the pin was drilled 6 mm all the way through to clear the M6 by 30 mm cap screw used to pull both halfís together when in place thus locking the motor mounting block to the column.

    I drilled the flat end of the non threaded pin using a 10 mm slot drill, to get a flat bottomed hole that the head of the cap screw would sit in without protruding.

    28-09-2020-001.jpg 28-09-2020-002.JPG

    These two pictures show the motor mounting block along with the column, threaded rod and the split collet in place. The second picture shows how it will look when set up on the grinder base.

    That is all for now, there is still lots to do before I can call this project done !
    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #349
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Thumbs up More work on the Grindling Spindle !

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for all the likes and thanks given, I do appreciate them !

    I've been looking around for a few weeks for some suitable thick wall steel tube that I could machine to make some collars 20.80 mm in diameter, that would fit into the 21 mm bore of the spindle housing and go between the outers of the end bearing races.

    I found a piece the other day, about 100 mm long. I put it in the three jaw chuck and turned the diameter down by just over 1/2 a mm. After which I then bored it out to give me a 2 mm thick wall, these are the two large bits of tube that you can see in the family picture at the bottom of this post..

    09-10-2020-001.JPG 09-10-2020-002.jpg

    Here you can see the piece of tube in the lathe after turning to size. It machined extremely well with an excellent surface finish. I needed two collars of about 20 mm in length, so I just cut two pieces off this tube using the bandsaw and then cleaned up and deburred the ends on the lathe.

    09-10-2020-003.jpg 09-10-2020-004.jpg 09-10-2020-005.JPG

    These pictures show the reason that I needed the two collars !

    Assembling the spindle cartridge with the bearings held on their outer edges meant that when the end caps were screwed in the bearing outer races would be trapped against the internal collar and the end caps. This meant that the spindle was free to move in the bearing inner races. By holding one end of the spindle in the lathe three jaw chuck the cartridge outer was free to move end wise. By setting up a dial gauge in the tool holder, I could now measure the amount of end float in the spindle. As can be seen, this end play amounted to 3 thou. So I now knew that I needed to shim the spindle by three thou to remove the end float.

    09-10-2020-011.JPG 09-10-2020-010.JPG 09-10-2020-012.JPG

    I had some paper that was two thou thick ! So I made a punch to knock a 12 mm diameter hole in some and then cut it to form a round washer whilst it was on the spindle pressed against the shoulder.

    The pictures show the washers on the spindle and the first picture is of the practice one. Whilst the two paper washers amount to four thou thickness, the one thou difference doesn’t cause the bearings to tighten up. This also allows me to measure by how much material I need to remove to adjust the length of inner collars, these are the small ones in the family picture, to allow for the clamping force by the pulleys mounted on the ends of the spindle.

    09-10-2020-008.jpg 09-10-2020-009.jpg

    These are the family pictures. The spindle cartridge can be seen at the top with the spindle below it. The ends of the spindle are symmetrical so from the ends. The threaded end cap, the outer bearing, the two collars, inner and outer ones, the inner bearing.

    The end caps are threaded one right hand and the other left hand threads. These end caps contain the pair of Teflon labyrinth seals and the sleeve that bears against the bearing inner race that the Teflon seals run on.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #350
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Thumbs up Spindle Mounting !

    Hi Guys,

    Now that I've got the grinding spindle finished and fitted the drive pulley, I've got to mount it on the motor block. To do this I propose to use some 15 mm thick alloy plate that I have in stock. I need two side plates, one mounted on each side of the motor mounting block.

    After machining all sharp edges should be deburred.

    I've done a drawing of the parts that I need. Showing what I am going to do.

    Grinding Spindle Mounting.jpg
    The blue areas are drilled 5 mm diameter holes that are then threaded M6.

    The order of work is to do all the drilling of the 5 mm holes first. The ones on the right, done first, are very deep drillingís and care should be taken to avoid them running off, since a 5 mm drill is quite slender and will bend if too much pressure is applied during drilling. I use diesel fuel as a cutting lubricant and a sharp drill when drilling deep holes in hard aluminium plate. I don't know what grade this stuff I have is but it is almost like a soft steel.

    I propose to saw the right hand end of the plate off on a line through the centre of the 29.5 mm hole as shown on the drawing after drilling the 5 mm holes and before doing anything else.

    After cutting off the end pieces these holes are opened out to clear an M6 thread then counter bored afterwards to suit M6 cap screw heads. Note: a commercial counter boring tool will have a spigot that is far larger than an M6 drilled hole. and will make the through hole over size. I would suggest using a 10 mm drill to make the screw head counter bore.

    Once the end piece is cut off and the holes through the end piece drilled out to clear an M6 screw and the 5 mm holes in the body plate can be threaded M6. At this point the end piece can be fastened back onto the body plate and secured ready for boring the large hole.

    The last step is to put both side plates into the four jaw chuck on the lathe and to bore the 29.5 mm diameter hole. This hole will be used to hold the grinding spindle cartridge with the end piece clamping it in place. It is important the the grinding spindle is square to both the motor and the base of the grinder table.

    The small 12.5 mm hole in the plates is to allow access to the split collet securing screw .

    The two M6 threaded holes on the left hand ends of the side plates are used to mount the side plates to the motor mounting plate. I have not shown these holes on the motor mounting plate drawing because the mounting block width is not a critical dimension and these holes can be drilled to suit your mounting block.

    More later when I've made these parts and taken some pictures of them.

    Thanks for looking guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #351
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Thumbs up Spindle mounting plates !

    Hi Guys,

    I've been busy cutting pieces of 15 mm aluminium plate and machining to size as per drawing in previous post.

    15-10-2020-001.JPG 15-10-2020-003.jpg

    This picture is the central block that is intended to support the motor and the grinding spindle cartridge. The two side plates are secured to the motor mounting plate by M6 hex countersunk screws. At the moment I haven't done the countersinks on the holes but that is a a job for later.

    15-10-2020-004.JPG

    In order to allow access to the split collet clamp screw each side plate required a hole drilling in it. In order to make sure that these holes were in the right place, I used a transfer punch. This consisted of a piece of 6 mm diameter rod with a point turned on one end. By using the drilled out half of the split collet the hole centres were marked on the side plates. You can see the 6 mm diameter rod in this picture.

    15-10-2020-002.jpg

    The other end of the side plates were marked and drilled with a 5 mm drill to a depth of 40 mm. After which I cut the top section off using the bandsaw. This allowed me access to thread the holes in the side plates M6, and drill out the 5 mm holes in the top pieces to 6 mm. This makes the M6 cap screws a close fit in the holes allowing the cut off piece to be accurately refitted and clamped to the side plates.

    15-10-2020-005.jpg 15-10-2020-006.JPG

    This picture shows the side plates along with the cut off pieces. The coloured marker has been used to identify which end piece belongs to which side plate.

    15-10-2020-007.JPG 15-10-2020-008.jpg

    Now that I have the side plates drilled for the split clamp screw access, I've prepared them for boring out by putting a 10 thou shim between them and clamped them together with 30 mm long M6 cap screws. You can just see the shims between the side plate and the top part. They still have to be counter bored so that the cap screw head will be below the surface of the top part.

    The shims will allow the grinding spindle cartridge to be securely clamped when the side plates are bored out.

    I was originally going to use the four jaw chuck on the lathe, but have discovered that my chuck isn't big enough to hold them. Unfortunately the 9 inch face plate will only allow one piece to be held without the work fastenings hitting the lathe bed. So the fall back position is to drill and bore each side plate using the mill and boring head.

    So that is the next job. More later.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #352
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Default One side plate done !

    Hi Guys,

    Well after a good start setting up to drill and bore the side plates, getting all lined up and centred on the hole position, I drilled a 6 mm pilot hole through the plate. At first I thought that the mill had developed another problem, then it dawned on me that the metallic clicking sound that I could hear was the corner of the drill catching the cut edge of the aluminium plate where I had used shims to create a gap between the two parts.

    16-10-2020-001.jpg 16-10-2020-002.jpg 16-10-2020-003.jpg

    In these pictures you can see the setup in the mill vise. The vise stop on the left hand side.

    Some time ago I used a hole saw to remove the waste from the middle of a hole, so because I had a 32 mm hole saw I thought that I would use it to take out the centre of the hole. Well that was a bad idea ! Not only did it wobble badly but it threatened to make a hole that would be at least a millimetre too big. So I resorted to using a one inch diameter blacksmiths drill that I have.

    Just for those that might not know, a blacksmiths drill is a drill that would be larger than 1/2" inch in diameter and has a reduced diameter shank of 1/2" diameter. The idea is that it will fit into a 1/2" or 13 mm drill chuck whereas a large drill wouldn't. They are also a lot cheaper than a large drill on an MT2 or greater shank.

    Well that worked well taking out 25.4 mm quite easily.

    16-10-2020-004.JPG 16-10-2020-005.jpg

    After this I changed to the 65 mm "Sorba" boring head that I have. It is a very nice boring head, calibrated in hundredths of a mm, so it was easy to get close to the 39.5 mm diameter that I wanted. I also had a piece of material that was the correct diameter that I used as a plug gauge to make sure that I didn't go too big and spoil the job.

    These last pictures are of one side plate fitted and the grinding spindle cartridge held in it. When I clamped the cartridge I could barely get a 1.5 thou feeler gauge to fit into the gap. That calculated 10 thou could have done to be two or three thou more.

    I didn't take any pictures of the actual boring out, but I will later.

    16-10-2020-006.jpg 16-10-2020-007.jpg

    You can see in these two pictures the shims that I used laying on the white board just behind the side plate. Also the small timing pulley has been fitted on the grinding spindle end.

    I'll machine the other side plate tomorrow and then we will see how it all goes together. I've also countersunk the fastening holes for the side plates, but I've yet to counter bore the caps so the cap screw heads are still proud of the top of the caps.

    Thanks for looking Guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #353
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,104

    Thumbs up Motor and cartridge mount !

    Hi Guys,

    I've almost finished the work on the motor and grinding cartridge mountings. I finished boring the other side plate this morning then counter sunk the cap screw heads into the clamping pieces. I've put the whole lot together and it all fits very nicely.

    17-10-2020-001.JPG

    I promised a picture of boring out the mounting hole for the cartridge.

    Sorry if this looks as if the picture was taken by candle light. I did try flash but it just burnt everything out, so this is just with the ring light and the adjustable one.

    17-10-2020-004.JPG

    A view of the bottom of the motor mounting plate with all the holes now countersunk and the side plates fastened to it with Pozidrive M6 counter sink screws. I've run out of hex drive ones.

    17-10-2020-003.JPG 17-10-2020-002.JPG

    These two views are of the main support block screwed onto the motor mounting plate and with the side plates fastened on.

    17-10-2020-008.JPG

    These are the two cartridge securing caps now that I've counter bored them for the screw heads.
    I used a 10 mm drill to a depth of 6 mm and then a 10 mm slot drill to get a flat bottomed hole rather than use commercial counter bores.

    17-10-2020-009.jpg

    Here I've just rested the cartridge in the side plates basically to check the alignment more than anything else prior to fitting the securing caps in place.

    17-10-2020-005.jpg 17-10-2020-007.JPG 17-10-2020-006.JPG

    Securing caps fitted and tightened down ! I can just get a 1 thou feeler gauge blade under each end of the caps without over tightening the screws. The spindle cartridge is as near as I can tell square to the mountings.
    I'll find out how square when the whole thing is assembled onto its cross slides.

    17-10-2020-010.JPG 17-10-2020-011.JPG

    17-10-2020-012.JPG 17-10-2020-013.JPG

    Last few pictures with the motor mounted. I still need to drill and put a grub screw into the driving pulley on the motor shaft and find a suitable drive belt. The piece of 20 mm bar where the support column will be is there to prevent the split collet from falling out and the long piece of threaded rod will be used to adjust the grinding head height. Even though I've used aluminium for the bulk of this assembly its far heavier than I expected it to be.

    That all for now folks, I'll post some more later as I get on with some of the other bits and pieces for this project.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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