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  1. #301
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,
    The problem is this "how do I measure and by how much do I need to reduce the spacer length to set the bearing separation" ? There is a shoulder at each end inside the housing that limits how far the inside bearings can go. Currently guessing, I have about 1 millimetre of end play. I don't want to pre-load the bearings excessively, but at the same time I don't want any end float if I can help it, at least any that I can measure.
    Right that all for now folks. Thanks for bearing with me so far.
    Hi John, this is one that i have just done.
    Its a bit shorter and less brgs than yours so prolly a bit easier to do, i measured the outside distance of the brgs when sitting in the shells then subtracted the 2 brgs widths and that gave me the spacer length. I wanted to have no freeplay at all but not tight either
    so i left a couple of thou on the spacer and rubbed it down on a flat surface on a sheet of wet n' dry measuring it to make sure the surfaces stayed parallel and test fitting after each rubbing, prolly took me a hour.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #302
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
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    3,925

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    Hi John,

    Thank you for your post and notes on the way you have done yours.

    I've tried to get at the distance between the inside shoulders by measuring from the flat end faces down the bore at each end. Then I measured accurately the overall length of the housing. Adding the two end measurements and subtracting from the overall length should give me the spacer length I need.

    But it doesn't seem to. Every time I remeasure it, its slightly different. I don't want to start making the shoulder on the spindle shorter, because that will increase the load on the bearings. I'm missing something here and the penny hasn't dropped yet.

    I'm going to sleep on it for while, I'm attending hospital tomorrow so I'll get back to it Thursday.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #303
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    53
    Posts
    1,087

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    I think the multiple measurements to determine the length between the shoulders introduces cumulative errors.
    Maybe a flat plug against one shoulder and measure internally from the other end to the plug and to the shoulder.
    You probably donít even need an accurate measurement, as if you put the sleeve against the same plug you could just compare the shoulder to the sleeve.

    Steve

  4. #304
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,464

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    How about rather than trying to get your thrust/end float tollerances adjusted from the 2 outer brgs use the 2 brgs at one end or the other, it would be easier to measure and do the be same job, if you do the pulley end then tightning the pulley against a spacer that presses against the brg centre would tighten the brgs and spacer to the shaft.
    Good luck at the hozie, hope all is well.

  5. #305
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,925

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    Hi Guys, John, Steve,

    I haven't the time at this moment, but I've solved the problem, I tell you how later. Got to dash right now !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #306
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,925

    Post

    Hi Guys,

    Sorry to have to run off like that, wife came and dragged me away so that I wouldn't miss the hospital appointment. Anyway I'm back, at least for the time being. I've to go back as soon as they send me another date for an appointment.

    Both of you were going in the right direction ! This is what I did.

    I drilled one end of the spindle and tapped it M6. It needs a fixing screw there anyway for the wheel mount. Then I assembled a bearing and used spacers along with a screw and washer to secure the bearing on the spindle against the shoulder. I then assembled it into the housing and fitted a single bearing at the other end. Again using spacers to trap the bearing on the shaft against the other shoulder.

    I then put the housing along with the assembled spindle into the lathe chuck. I mounted a half thou dial gauge in the tool post putting the stylus on the end of the shaft and setting zero. Yes I did lock the saddle. By using a rod up the lathe spindle and pushing the spindle back and forth I got consistent end float readings on the dial gauge. By using this method I found that I had to remove 85 thou off the shoulder at one end of the spindle, which I did.

    When I rechecked the end float I now had 3.5 thou of float. Which I duly removed.

    This means that I have zero as near as dam it end float. It also means that I can set the internal spacer length between the bearings with some accuracy. It also gives me a technique for measuring the spacer lengths needed for the distance between the pairs of bearings on each end.

    So I'm back to being a happy bunny.

    Thankyou both for the pushes in the right direction, its much appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #307
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,925

    Thumbs up Grinding Spindle work !

    Hi Guys,

    I've got some more work done on my grinding spindle. The cartridge is just about finished. It needs a couple of spacers making and then the drive pulley can be bored and fitted.

    31-07-2020-001.JPG 31-07-2020-002.JPG

    These pictures show the internal assembly of the shaft/spindle. The other end is identical except that the end cap is threaded with a 1 mm left hand thread, this end is a normal right hand thread with also with a 1 mm pitch.

    The components are from left to right, the centre spacer, inside bearing, 15 mm spacer, outer bearing, Teflon washer and end cap. There is also a large 21 mm diameter spacer between the bearings, not shown here. The Teflon washer only bears on the outer of the bearing ensuring that the bearings are trapped on the outer of the race.

    31-07-2020-005.jpg 31-07-2020-004.jpg 31-07-2020-003.jpg

    These three pictures show the assembled cartridge. At this point I have a measured 8 thou of end float. This will be taken out by machining one of the bearing spacers. The red marker is to show which end is the right hand threaded one. These end caps still need castlations machining in them for a suitable wrench.

    If I was doing this again I would use 15 mm diameter steel rod rather than the 1/2" diameter rod and a spacer that I did use. It would have saved having to drill a 75 mm long hole 1/2" diameter through a piece of bar.

    That's all for now. Thanks guys for your support.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #308
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    264

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    Good to see the major part of the spindle is done, how much to do before a trial is possible.

  9. #309
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,925

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    Hi Familyguy,

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Good to see the major part of the spindle is done, how much to do before a trial is possible.
    Realistically once the pulley is bored and can be secured to the shaft, not too much, just tidying up and making final adjustments.

    I need to do the work needed on the end caps but that isn't going to stop running it up.

    I've also been thinking about the two duff cartridge bodies that are sat in the scrap bin, its a shame to leave them there ! When I've finished this one, I might have a practice at line boring and some larger diameter bearings. Beats me how some Utuber's can take stuff out of a three jaw, turn it over and carry on machining at the other end. No way can they ever get the ends true to each other !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #310
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    264

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    I also see a lot of that on Youtube - one one hand if it works and the Youtuber is happy with the results then OK, but on the other hand it can lead others astray.

  11. #311
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    3,925

    Thumbs up End Caps castellations done !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now got the castellations done on the end caps ! Now I have to machine the grooves for the Teflon rings and then the end caps are completed.

    06-08-2020-002.jpg 06-08-2020-005.jpg 06-08-2020-006.jpg 06-08-2020-001.JPG

    Here are pictures of the milling set up. I used a hex ER32 collet block to index the six castellations in each if the two end caps. The cap is mounted on a piece of 16 mm bar turned down to suit the bore in the cap. I drilled and threaded the end M6 to take a screw to secure the cap whilst machining it. I used a 4 mm diameter slot drill to cut the slots. The fourth picture shows the result. I need to make a key to suit so the cap can be tightened.

    06-08-2020-008.JPG 06-08-2020-007.jpg

    These two pictures are the components used and the finished caps. I had to make a small 6 mm long spacer to prevent the mill chuck from rubbing the collet nut. The piece on the screw was so that the screw could clamp the cap whilst milling.

    06-08-2020-004.JPG 06-08-2020-003.jpg

    The end caps in place and nipped up. I still have the 8 thou end float but I will sort that out a little later. I've given it a spin up for a few seconds using a rubber band and the Dremal tool. Holding them by hand the spindle is completely vibration free, lets hope that it stays that way when the grinding wheel is fitted.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #312
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    264

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    I forget what diam your spindle body is, but - I was able to use the C spanner that came with my ER25 collet chuck, saved me making one.

    I tested mine the same way but with an O-ring drive belt, I now use some 6mm plastic drive belt material (Ebay), just heat the ends with a lighter, press together and once cool use a razor blade to trim off the excess stuff that squeezes out .

  13. #313
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Familyguy, Guys,

    The cartridge diameter is 30 mm for this one, so its going to be a paper template and file time for a wrench. I can soon bore a 30 mm hole but it would be the sticky out bit that gets me, though I know a guy that is good with a tig ! Mmm I wonder ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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