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  1. #256
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Neevo,

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    I’ve heard you shouldn’t creep up on the dimension on soft materials as they can deflect. Not sure if it relates to this but maybe worth a look:


    https://youtu.be/hXq_HfwG7dA
    That quite true, I've heard that Teflon is ground to size because it is so soft and tends to flow under constant pressure. I understand that this tube I have is cast to size ! Obviously not to the size I need. If you have ever handled it, it has a very weird slimy feel to it, its soft but hard at the same time.

    I'll have to see how I get on with it.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #257
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Latest spindle drawing !

    Hi Guys,

    I've just finished the drawing for the spindle using the 18 mm diameter bearings.

    Since the spindle shaft is 12 mm diameter, I've shown three spacers, each 15 mm long. The innermost one will be secured to the shaft with Locktite adhesive and is there to prevent the shaft moving within the bearing bore. The second one is between the pair of bearings and intended to set the separation between the inner race of them. The third one goes at the end of the spindle shaft and will run through the labyrinth dust trap. This spacer is the one that the wheel hub will bear against. A screw in the end of the shaft providing the compression force to hold the parts together.

    I've shown a nitrile rubber ring used as a tension preload device on the outer of the front bearing. Better than fixed shims and providing a constant force whilst restraining the shaft from moving laterally. Unfortunately it does make the gap between the end cap and bearing somewhat critical.

    Spindle Design 3a.png
    There is only 3 mm to play with between the bearing inner and outer surfaces so the spacer thickness has to be less than 1.70 mm. I've shown 1 mm as a ball park figure. Fortunately the bearing shield is a few thou below the bearing edge.

    Thanks Guys for looking, your thoughts are appreciated.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #258
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Neat idea to use the o-ring for preload!
    Its a reasonably large diameter in relation to the 1.2mm section, so I'm wondering if there might be a tendency for it to get messed up and out of shape when its being tightened.
    Might be a non-issue, but adding something like a slight cone to the end cap to keep the o-ring captive against the bearing bore would make sure it couldn't happen.

    Steve

  4. #259
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Yes I do agree with you, there isn't much to bear against at all.

    It occurs to me that the sleeve coming through the end cap could usefully be made a slightly larger diameter. A 2mm thick wall rather than one mm, and the cap bore increased to accommodate the difference.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #260
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    Well the news for today is that the metre of 35 mm Diameter EN1AL turned up this afternoon ! A knock on the door and that was it, the driver had lent the material up against the door frame, standing on the invoice, and gone. Neither of us, my wife and I, saw anything of the delivery guy !

    Talk about social distancing !

    Anyway I've cut a 5.25 piece off the bar and its now in the lathe chuck waiting for me to set to and drill a 1/2" hole through the middle.

    14-04-2020-002.JPG 14-04-2020-003.jpg

    The gauge holder I made this item today. I'm using it here to centre the piece of bar that I cut off. See my post in "Metalwork General"

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #261
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    My other hobby is electronics - old and new, I recently purchased a valve tester to add to my list of restoration projects. The day it arrived the dogs did their normal thing to let me know someone was close to the front door, so I started for the front door, the bell went as I reached for the door knob as I opened the front door and stepped outside the delivery driver was backing away so quickly he almost fell over his own feet and explained he was doubling his chances of not being infected by keeping 3 meters distance instead of 1.5.

    Your dial gauge holder looks interesting I have about 6 or 7 dial gauges but really only use the 2 that are attached to magnetic bases I might look into making a copy of your holder.

  7. #262
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    Well the news for today is that the metre of 35 mm Diameter EN1AL turned up this afternoon ! A knock on the door and that was it, the driver had lent the material up against the door frame, standing on the invoice, and gone. Neither of us, my wife and I, saw anything of the delivery guy !

    Talk about social distancing !
    ....
    You sure it was a delivery guy.
    There are drones that can knock nowadays.....

    Steve

  8. #263
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    You sure it was a delivery guy.
    There are drones that can knock nowadays.....

    Steve
    I have my doubts that a drone could even lift one end, never mind the whole bar. It weighs a ton, well its very heavy. Anyway the invoice is marked "Van". I must admit surprise that there was no one in sight when my wife opened the gate and we went round to the door.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #264
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Drilling the spindle bore !

    Hi Guys,

    I've not had too much time to get much done of late. But having bought the material for the spindle body, I thought that I had better do something with it. So having cut a 5" inch length off and put it in the lathe four jaw chuck and got it nicely centred. I set to and drilled a 12.5 mm diameter hole all the way through.

    22-04-2020-001.jpg

    Next step is to bore it out to take the 61701ZZ 18 mm diameter ball bearings.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #265
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Boring !

    Hi Guys,

    I've got a little more done on the spindle body. I've bored one end out to 18 mm for a depth of 30 mm, and made a recess in the end 25 mm diameter in preparation for threading. Since I made a cockup of the gearing that was supposed to cut 32 threads to the inch and ended up being 24, I've decided to standardise on a 1 mm pitch thread. I still need to open the 12.5 mm bore behind the bearings to 14 mm diameter to accept the 1 mm wall thickness sleeve that goes on the shaft to provide a seat for the back bearing inner race.

    24-04-2020-001.jpg 24-04-2020-002.jpg 24-04-2020-004.JPG

    Boring the 18 mm diameter 30 mm deep, you can see the red mark on the boring bar so that I know when I've hit the required depth.

    24-04-2020-003.jpg

    Here I've just finished boring the recess for the threads to secure the end cap, and deburred the edges.

    I will drill the 12.5 mm bore out to 14 mm for a distance of about 15 mm just enough to clear the sleeve on the shaft. It will only leave me with a 1 mm lip for the bearing outer to seat against.

    Thanks for looking Guys:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #266
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Just wondering why you chose the bearings that you did, there seems to be plenty of 'meat' left in the spindle body for larger bearings.

  12. #267
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Thanks for your question, good to see someone paying attention.

    Availability and cost ! I can get ten of the original desired 6801ZZ bearings from China for what it cost here for the two small ones I bought.

    The smaller 61701ZZ was available from two suppliers here in the UK but one was closed, so I purchased two from the firm that I was buying the timing pulley from at twice the price that the closed firm wanted. Also delivery was free, where as the closed firm wanted carriage charges. But they don't sell the timing pulleys.

    One advantage of having a thick wall housing is that I can if needed at a later date use larger diameter bearing races.

    At the moment I'm setting up to thread one end of the housing. When that is done its a matter of machining the spindle to suit the bearings. But more about that later.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #268
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Threading and testing !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've now got the threads cut into the housing and checked them ! I've managed to do the same trick that I did when I was test machining the end caps, and now have the same 24 threads per inch, rather than the original 32 tpi planned for and the 1 mm pitch that I decided to change to.

    26-04-2020001.jpg

    Because I hadn’t got the correct threading tool bit inserts to thread away from the chuck when cutting an internal thread, I set up the lathe to cut the threads by hand using a lathe spindle wheel and thread into the bore. This works well as long as you don't crash into the back of the bore. I cheated by winding the cutting tool in until I touched the back wall with it, and then noted the leadscrew dial reading. Whilst cutting the thread I made sure that I was stopping just before I got to the number on the dial. Actually a red dot from the marker pen.

    26-04-2020003.JPG 26-04-2020002.JPG

    These two pictures show the threading tool and the finished threaded recess. I really need to buy a bar with the insert on the other side, then I could have cut the threads under power. The threads have turned out better than I thought they might be, since the cut is so slow and intermittent when winding by hand.

    26-04-2020005.JPG 26-04-2020004.JPG

    Anyway I decided to test try the experimental end cap against the threads in the spindle housing. Amazingly It fits, its not tight, but not loose either. You can't see it but there is a very tiny gap between the shoulder of the cap and the face of the housing. A two thou feeler gauge just goes in. I'm quite pleased with that !

    Of course the problem will be to see if I can replicate this at the other end.

    Thanks for looking Guys. More to come.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #269
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    Good stuff. Bugger about the thread pitch, but at least you're consistent. Definitely don't go messing with it now!
    Don't think I would have the patience to cut that thread by turning the spindle by hand.....but then your efforts with hacksawing and hand filing the stainless plate earlier in the project already proved you've got plenty !!!!

    Steve

  15. #270
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve,

    Thank you for your kind words. I learnt long ago that when you rush, you tend to make mistakes, because your mind is concentrating on getting the job done and not on the job.

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Good stuff. Bugger about the thread pitch, but at least you're consistent. Definitely don't go messing with it now!
    Don't think I would have the patience to cut that thread by turning the spindle by hand.....but then your efforts with hacksawing and hand filing the stainless plate earlier in the project already proved you've got plenty !!!!

    Steve
    Yes I made the same mistake twice, forgetting to change the spindle gear ! You wouldn't think 9 teeth made that much difference.

    That stainless plate admission is going to haunt me, isn't it. But thank you for the pat on the back.

    Anyway now I'm here, I have a small quandary ! I've taken the spindle body out of the four jaw and turned it around. I've clocked it dead true on the outer using the gauge I showed earlier. However I drilled the hole right through in one go. The hole is just over 3 thou out at this end. Do I clock the hole for zero run out or stick with the body outer. The hole was drilled with a 12.5 mm drill and a 12.5 mm shaft will just slide through without any binding. So the hole is quite straight.

    I'm bothered by the possibility that once I have the bearings fitted, the shaft may bind. At the moment the bearings are a very tight fit in the housing, so I propose lapping the housing surface to create a sliding fit.

    Thanks:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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