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  1. #151
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Worm & mounts sorted !

    Hi Guys,

    I've had a good day in the workshop and got a few things done.

    25-01-2020-001.jpg 25-01-2020-002.JPG
    A couple of pictures of the mounted worm. I've temporarily used M6 cap screws to secure the brass bearing pieces. I will dig out the countersunk screws later. I wanted to fit things together to see how it looked, in the flesh so to speak, rather than a drawing. Surprisingly when you take the twist out of the brass bearings, the worm turns very well. If it looks like the worm is not square to the bottom of the back plate, it isn't ! Its a whole millimetre high on the right. Probably as a result of not getting the 3 mm depth of thread cut into the wheel.

    If I were going to do this again, I would definitely mill a 6.5 or 7 mm diameter groove in the edge of the wheel and also just use a shaft to mount the wheel for hobbing the teeth. I still think fitting ball bearings in there is a good idea, but I would hob the teeth first, then bore the hub to suit the bearings.

    25-01-2020-004.JPG 25-01-2020-003.JPG
    This is the wheel in place. It only just clears the brass bearings ! I can slide a 10 thou feeler gauge in there so I know there is clearance. And I can fit the wheel and slide the hub pin in without it binding.

    I've yet to make an aluminium knob to fit the 5 mm diameter shaft to turn the worm. I haven't decided yet whether to calibrate the knob or to calibrate the wheel. I think it would make more sense to calibrate the wheel in degrees of angle, where as the knob would be easier calibrated in thou's.

    Right that's it for now. Thanks Guys for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #152
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Tool Holder Block !

    Hi Guys,

    I've done some drawings of the Tool holder block showing its position on the worm wheel.

    Tool Block 2.png Tool Block 1.png
    I've used colour to make the parts stand out. The Tool holder block is made from an off cut of hard brass hex bar that I salvaged from the scrap yard some time ago. Its 30 mm across flats. All the holes are drilled right through except the recess for the head of the screw holding the worm wheel.

    I've just noticed that I've got the recess diameter wrong, it should be 1/2" inch and 3 mm deep, not 15 as shown.

    The Idea is that the screw head locates the recess of the tool holder block in the centre of the worm wheel. The 4 mm diameter holes on the recess side are threaded M5 after spotting through to the worm wheel. I intend using M5 countersunk screws from the back of the worm wheel to secure the tool block. On the top side of the tool block the centre hole will be tapped M6 for a thumbscrew.

    27-01-2020-001.JPG 27-01-2020-003.jpg 27-01-2020-002.jpg
    These pictures show the parts as they are at the moment. The holes need spotting through and afterwards the holes in the tool block need threading.
    Worm Knob 1.png
    This is the drawing for the proposed collet fixing for the knob that will be used to turn the worm. Again I've used an aluminium knob and a brass insert for the collet. Since I have M9 X 1 taps and dies, I propose to use that thread on the rear of the collet to tighten it onto the 5 mm diameter worm shaft.

    That's all for now folks, thanks for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Holes threaded !

    Hi Guys,

    I've tapped the holes in the tool holder block and countersunk the worm bearing blocks fastening screw holes in the rear of the plate. I've also drilled and countersunk the holes in the worm wheel for the M5 screws that secure the tool holder block.

    29-01-2020-001.JPG 29-01-2020-002.JPG 29-01-2020-004.JPG
    I have loads of cheese head M5 screws, but I couldn't find any countersunk ones, so I turned the underside of the screw head to make the ones that I needed to 42 degrees. You can see where the screwdriver slot meets the screw threads.

    29-01-2020-005.JPG 29-01-2020-003.JPG

    So not really a great deal of progress today. Other things needed sorting out, like making a new lathe tool height gauge. Something that I've been meaning to do for a while. Much better than a scribed line on a bit of ally.

    Thanks Guys, for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Mount !

    Hi Guys,

    I've been doing some work on the mount for the plate holding the tool holder block. This block will be screwed onto the plate that pivots on the top slide. I haven't finished the drawing yet, but I will post it when I have.

    01-02-2020-001.JPG 01-02-2020-002.jpg
    I sawed off a 100 mm length of 31.75 mm by 15.875 mm bright steel bar (1.250" X 0.625" inches since this bar is imperial). 1" inch by 5/8" would have been better. I then milled an 8 mm slot down its length 8 mm in from one edge and 10 mm deep. I did this in two 5 mm deep cuts at 1000 rpm and about 40 mm per minute. Using cutting oil applied by a brush.

    01-02-2020-003.jpg
    I used a file to clean the slightly rounded edges at the bottom of the cut and to take the burrs of the edges and ends. I will cut the block to width on the bandsaw and clean up the edge by fly cutting using the mill.

    01-02-2020-005.jpg 01-02-2020-004.JPG
    As can be seen here the 8 mm thick plate fits in the slot perfectly. That bottom edge looks not to be square, that is because of the burrs being filed off. As you can see in the second picture the top of the block needs about 1/2 a mm taking off so that the worm wheel doesn't foul it.

    I haven't yet decided whether to put the mounting screws through the bottom of the slot or through one side of it. If I go through the slot I can use M5 csk screws. If I fasten through the block I can use M6 cap screws.

    There are also two pinch screws to be fitted through one of the sides in order to clamp the plate firmly in the slot. I'm contemplating using a pair of brass tipped M6 cap screws with a locating pin in the bottom of the slot.The idea here is so the plate can easily be removed to fit different devices accommodating other tools.

    Edited to add drawing.
    Plate mounting block.jpg
    Thanks Guys !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up More work done !

    Hi Guys,

    Warning ! Lots of pictures.

    I've had quite a productive day in the workshop, I've got a fair bit done ! In the last post I inserted a drawing of the mounting block for the tool holder plate that holds the worm and wheel. I've yet to modify the drawing to take into account the work done so far. So I'll post a new drawing later.


    05-02-2020-001.jpg 05-02-2020-002.jpg 05-02-2020-003.jpg
    This is a picture of that block. After milling an 8 mm wide, 10 mm deep slot in it, I drilled two 4 mm diameter holes in it so that I could fasten it to the plate with the slotted end. I drilled the holes at an arbitrary distance apart such that the holes came about 10 mm in from the edge of the plate.

    When you look at the picture of the bottom of the block you will see that one hole is further away from the edge of the block. This is because the block, when positioned correctly is somewhat too long. If you look closely at that picture you will see that I have scribed lines where the block is going to be cut away so the the edge of the block matches the profile of the plate.

    The original holes in the block were drilled 4.0 mm diameter, then later opened out to 4.2 mm the tapping size for M5. However they will be drilled clearance size for M5 a little later. In order for the fixing holes to match up with the holes in the plate, they were drilled first and then spotted through.

    As you can see the holes in the block are recessed in a 10 mm diameter bore and countersunk at the bottom to take M5 countersunk hex socket screws.

    Drilling these holes accurately on the centre line of the slot required the use of a little jig to guide the drill.

    05-02-2020-004.JPG 05-02-2020-006.JPG 05-02-2020-005.jpg
    This is the jig that I made to guide the drill and the spotting centre punch made from 4 mm diameter hardened drill rod, (silver steel in the UK) with a 60 degree point turned on the end then ground after hardening. The jig body is the cut off end of a M12 stainless steel bolt. Its 20 mm long with a 4 mm diameter hole drilled all the way through, then turned down to a shade under 8 mm diameter so that it fits snugly in the slot in the block.

    I used this to first drill the holes in the mounting block and then used the 4 mm punch to spot through those holes into the plate. After spotting and drilling 4.2 mm diameter holes in the plate I then threaded them M5.

    The counter bores in the block were done using a 10 mm slot drill on the mill. 10 mm diameter is the head diameter of the countersunk M5 screws that I am using. The counter sinking was done on the mill and made 2 mm deep to match the head thickness of the screws. The 4 mm holes and the spotting punch was used to line the mill head up, then swapped out for the slot drill. After using the slot drill it was swapped out for a 10 mm countersink and the hole was then counter sunk before moving on to the next hole.


    05-02-2020-007.JPG 05-02-2020-011.JPG
    A trial assembly to see how it looks. The two pinch bolts had not been done when I took these two pictures.
    They are M6 and are used to secure the plate with the worm wheel to the block.

    05-02-2020-009.jpg 05-02-2020-010.jpg 05-02-2020-012.jpg 05-02-2020-013.jpg
    These pictures are of a trial assembly and the family of components used.

    The brass tool holder needs to be bored out to match the collet that I hope to use.

    Lots more to come !
    Thanks for watching.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Tool holder mounting block done !

    Hi Guys,

    Warning ! Lots more pictures.

    I've now finished the machining of the tool block holder !

    07-02-2020-003.jpg 07-02-2020-004.jpg

    These two pictures show the drilled and threaded holes along with the two grub screws that I made from the off cut ends of a couple of M6 cap screws. I just filed the faces flat and cut screwdriver slots in one end. The right hand picture shows a better view of the counter bores and the counter sinking at the bottom.

    07-02-2020-010.JPG 07-02-2020-011.JPG

    I've also put a radius on the top edges and cut off the surplus material at the ends along the scribed lines. All the sharp edged have been deburred, so the part is now ready for fitting to the base plate, and the plate carrying the worm and wheel test assembled.

    07-02-2020-005.jpg

    I used a wood router bit at about 1000 rpm and roughly 25 mm a minute feed to do the edges using the mill. I don't normally used carbide tool bits other than for single point threading on the lathe, however I am surprised at the quality of the finish produced by what is basically a cutter with zero back rake.

    Just as an aside I also took the opportunity to round off the back top and bottom edges of my rear Norman toolpost tool holder.
    However it seems that the picture has gone walkie !

    07-02-2020-007.jpg 07-02-2020-008.jpg 07-02-2020-009.jpg

    These pictures are of the setup I used for cutting the waste ends off the tool holder mounting block.

    Next job is to drill and bore the brass bar to suit the collet holder.

    A lot more to come ! Now where did I put that boring bar ?

    Thanks for following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Boring !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've drilled a 14 mm diameter hole down the centre of the piece of hex brass bar that I'm going to use for the tool holder in readiness for boring out to 20 mm diameter to suit the ER25 collet holder that I've bought.

    Well I've not been able to find the boring bar that I was looking for, the one that I originally used to machine the bore for the collet holder for the four facet drill grinder that I built. So I've made a new one.

    08-02-2020-001.jpg

    This is it in use ! I've just done the first cut of the drilled hole with it.

    The bar is about 10" inches long and 1/2" diameter, nice steel, probably came from a printer or photo copier or something like that. Notice the rear tool block holding the parting blade. I've machined the back edge of the block to match the front one.

    08-02-2020-003.JPG

    I cross drilled 5 mm and threaded it M6, to take the end bit of a broken tap. I drilled the end with a 4 mm drill and threaded it M5 to take a grub screw. Being inherently lazy, I just used a screw that was on the bench instead of looking for a grub screw. You can't see it but I ground a screw driver slot in the back of the tool bit so that I could get the cutting bit out for sharpening.

    08-02-2020-004.jpg

    A close up of the first pass with the boring bar with a DOC of 60 thou at 700 rpm. Those through holes cause a good thump as the cutting edge hits them, and swarf gets thrown all over the place. I'm happy with that finish, I just hope that the last cut will be as nice.

    08-02-2020-002.jpg

    Here I've just withdrawn the boring bar after the first cut. You can see the chips produced. They are like little yellow snow flakes, yet when I drilled the work piece with the 14 mm drill, the swarf came out in long twisted curls.

    I'll post some more when I get this piece bored to size and I can try the collet holder in it.

    Thanks Guys for looking !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Hey BaronJ,

    Good idea re using the broken tap and cutting a thread for it to fasten into.

    I have got some old broken taps to do this with.

    Bill

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Boring done !

    Hi Guys,

    I've got the boring part finished and I'm quite happy / pleased with the result.

    Bill, it took more time to grind the tool bit than it did to drill and thread the bar quite surprising what you can do with a Dremal when you try

    Now on to the finished boring.

    09-02-2020-003.jpg

    This is the collet chuck that I bought from China via Banggood to use for this job. Also chosen because the 20 mm diameter shaft size is the same as the ER16 collet chuck that I use for the four facet drill grinder and that will only take upto 10 mm diameter drills, and that was only after I drilled the shaft bore out by a mm or so, using a reground masonry drill.

    09-02-2020-002.jpg 09-02-2020-001.jpg

    This is the finished collet holder with the collet chuck in place. I just nipped it in the bench vise so I could take a couple of pictures. It will slide smoothly from end to end without any stickiness with the light push of a finger. I'm bragging, but I couldn't be any more happy with it.

    09-02-2020-004.JPG

    I tried to get a good picture of the finished bore, but in the picture it looks surprisingly rough. I was tempted to give it a rub with 1200 grit emery paper but decided against it, just rubbing the sharp edges off the ends. They were very sharp indeed.

    That is it for now ! I've some other things that need doing, like repairing the mill, again !!

    I started machining a piece and discovered that I could no longer use the fine feed on the quill. For some reason the gear on the down feed handle doesn’t mesh with the fine feed gear. You can feel the top of the teeth rubbing, but no engagement.

    Anyway I'll be back later ! Thanks Guys for your attention.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Mounting Block Drawing !

    Hi Guys,

    Thanks for your support

    Not a lot to add today other than the the new drawing for the Tool holder plate Mounting block !

    Plate mounting block.jpg

    In this instance very much a case of make it then do the drawing for it.

    I've not put the angles in on the drawing simply because I made the block, fastened it down and scribed the ends using the base plate as a template. If anybody wants to know the angles, please let me know and I will repost the drawing with them added.

    I'll do some more work after I've fixed the mill fine down feed mechanism.

    Thanks.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #161
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Good to see you are making progress - do you plan to make a spindle or adapt a small bench grinder? I see a lot of DIY cutter grinders use this idea - it seems to work out well.

  12. #162
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Good to see you are making progress
    Thanks ! Nice to know you are watching.

    Do you plan to make a spindle or adapt a small bench grinder? I see a lot of DIY cutter grinders use this idea - it seems to work out well.
    At this moment in time, I don't really know. There are so many ways of making a wheel head. My original thoughts were a spindle cartridge, but the possible size and weight placed on the vertical column puts me off.

    Motors:
    Oddly enough I acquired two single phase 2800 rpm, 1 hp foot mounted shower pump motors on Monday. The down side of those is that they only have 9 mm diameter shafts, but they do protrude 50 mm out from each end of the motor. The rotors on both are supported at each end in ball bearings. One is 100 mm body diameter and the other is 125 mm diameter, which makes them a bit big for the grinder.

    Both of them are electronically switched, and thermal overload protected, and both had sized pumps ! They were absolutely jam packed with lime scale, it always seems to be on the hot side as well. Since these motors are electronically switched, the motors themselves are in perfect condition.

    Now if you have any ideas or suggestions of how to sort out a wheel head, I would be pleased to hear them.

    In the meantime I'm figuring out how to repair the mill !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #163
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Having made a spindle for my Quorn I would say that it is not all that difficult and does increase the versatility of the grinder, mainly (for me at least) in the ability to have a selection of pre-mounted wheels that can be swapped without the need to dress and balance each time a different wheel is used, the Quorn grinding head can be removed and double as a tool post grinder, and I have plans to make a mount for the grinding head on the mill so it could at a pinch be used as a surface grinder. If you don't plan on doing any of these then possibly a repurposed small bench grinder is the easy way to go, with modern CBN and diamond wheels there is not the same need for trueing/dressing.

    I have a 200watt 2800rpm capacitor start motor on my Quorn geared up about 2.1:1 so the wheel spins approx 5800rpm - it is a little under powered I can hear the motor slow if I grind off more than a few thou. strangely it has plain bearings. I recall reading in the Quorn book that the spindle should be good for 20,000 (assuming it is made correctly). My spindle is just the standard Quorn spindle as per the drawings, using preloaded magneto bearings, springs came with the castings so did not have to concern my self with that side of things, the spindle central shaft was turned from a high tensile steel centre fire rifle barrel, the most difficult part of the spindle assembly was probably the labyrinth dust seal.

  14. #164
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Thankyou for your comments. They are much appreciated.

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Having made a spindle for my Quorn I would say that it is not all that difficult and does increase the versatility of the grinder, mainly (for me at least) in the ability to have a selection of pre-mounted wheels that can be swapped without the need to dress and balance each time a different wheel is used
    Yes that is an attractive feature, and one that it would be good to include !

    The Quorn grinding head can be removed and double as a tool post grinder, and I have plans to make a mount for the grinding head on the mill so it could at a pinch be used as a surface grinder. If you don't plan on doing any of these then possibly a repurposed small bench grinder is the easy way to go, with modern CBN and diamond wheels there is not the same need for truing/dressing.
    Actually I have several CBN wheels and some diamond coated ones. Unfortunately they are various different sizes ! As I had an idea I bought a wheel and then thought about it. The net result is nothing achieved ! They are sat in a box somewhere gathering dust.

    I have a 200watt 2800rpm capacitor start motor on my Quorn geared up about 2.1:1 so the wheel spins approx 5800rpm - it is a little under powered I can hear the motor slow if I grind off more than a few thou. strangely it has plain bearings. I recall reading in the Quorn book that the spindle should be good for 20,000 (assuming it is made correctly). My spindle is just the standard Quorn spindle as per the drawings, using preloaded magneto bearings, springs came with the castings so did not have to concern my self with that side of things, the spindle central shaft was turned from a high tensile steel centre fire rifle barrel, the most difficult part of the spindle assembly was probably the labyrinth dust seal.
    I'll have to go and have a search around on the net and see what information I can find. I've seen several pictures and even seen one in the flesh at the last Harrogate Model Engineering Exhibition. Someone commented that with all the handles it was like an octopus, I must agree !

    I don't care for going down the route of purchasing castings. I'm trying to do everything with stock materials. I've literally years worth of saved new and old steel, aluminium, brass and copper stock !

    I think finding a suitable motor is the next step, and based on what you say about yours, a 200 Watt one would be the minimum needed.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I looked at a small cheap chinese tile cutter at a car boot sale - $20 - should have grabbed it - 375W motor, 2800 rpm, sealed water proof switch and electricals, no need to do any wiring as it was a compete unit including power cord, only thought about it once I was home, would have made a perfect motor. I see them on Gumtree every now and again, I'll keep an eye out and when one pops up for a reasonable price I'll get it.

    The Quorn castings are now not cheap at all and you would have to consider it carefully, used chinese Deckel clones are so cheap now, my castings were a xmas gift from back in 1985 - 30yrs before I started machining.

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