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  1. #1
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    Default A set of Drawers made from stainless sheet

    Hi all,

    I'm making a couple of storage drawers to fit in the front compartment of my camping trailer.

    Usually I would just make them from 19mm pine or even ply but figured it was time to use my pan brake. I have some 1.2mm stainless sheet collecting dust so figured I'd finally put some of it to use.

    This also made me get off my bum and finally do some study on the art of sheet metal folding.

    It's more involved than I thought!!!

    Anyway, after some fiddling around I finally got to something that resembled a drawer.

    My only regret was not making the joining tabs wider, it meant I didn't have enough room to rivet the back plate on from inside, which would make for a flush internal finish.

    The front will be 20mm marine ply.

    It's great to be putting my folder to something worthwhile.

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    It's more involved than I thought!!!
    Hi Simon, welcome to the "Black Art" of sheet metal work.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Isn't it just!

    It's surprisingly rewarding...... when it all comes together.

    I was surprised at the effort required to fold a 400mm length of 1.2mm stainless!

    I looked into the K value for stainless in order to end up with the correct drawer width as there's not alot of room for error. But in the end I cheated and folded it such that the bend deduction would only affect the finished height not the width...... I think.

    Is that correct? Can you manipulate where the bend deduction is affected by changing which part is clamped and which part is folded by the leaf?

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #4
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    Default

    With a folder you will change the bend if you switch sides, as you are clamping one side and manipulating the other.
    Rather than stuff around with K values, get some strips and mark out lines a known distance apart. Bend between the lines and then measure. That will give you an idea of how much material the bend 'uses', as well as where it goes from that clamping/ bending action.

    I know your bender is not rated, but the usual rule of thumb is what ever capacity you can bend in MS, double that for AL and halve it for SS. Especially if the bending leaf is heavy I find a counterweight helps, both to balance the leaf but also as an extension handle for all those thicker parts you are bending but probably shouldn't.

    Michael

  5. #5
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    Default

    Thanks Michael, I was hoping you would chime in since I know you have done a bit with sheet metal. Yes you are correct, a counter weight would be of use. However, I want to ultimately store my folder near the wall of the shed and a counter weight would get in the way. I have a small hydraulic ram and a pump set aside to attach to this thing but it's yet to be installed.

    Well I have since made another drawer. At the start I mentioned that I didn't make the joining tabs wide enough. I have learnt a valuable lesson;

    I folded the joining tabs clamping the opposite side to the last set of drawers which has made the tabs even smaller I guess if there is one side of the fold you really don't want any smaller after the fold, make sure it's the part that is clamped NOT the part folded!

    Still, it's been a fun learning experience and I'm really happy with how the folder is working and the results I'm getting.

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Yes you are correct, a counter weight would be of use. However, I want to ultimately store my folder near the wall of the shed and a counter weight would get in the way. I have a small hydraulic ram and a pump set aside to attach to this thing but it's yet to be installed. Simon
    Hi Simon, as Michael mentioned a counter weight would be of a great help. You could make the counter weight a removable piece, as you want to store the folder elsewhere. Most of the folders I've seen where there is a counterweight, use something like 25mm round bar slipped into a piece of hollow bar with either a couple of set bolts or a removable pin and clip.
    When you mount the ram and pump, the folder won't be easily stored under a bench, unless you're Superman Also the folding will be a LOT slower and you won't have the infinite control over it as you have at the moment. Unless you intend to go to a digital screen and have a stepper motor that's connected to the folding bar to give you the angle required.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
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    Hi Kryn,

    Yes you are right. I will look at fixing a removable counter weight.

    The folder won't fit under my bench, nor can I lift it. It lives on a purpose built stand on casters.

    It started off as a 600mm folder then it grew to a 900mm and then finally finished at 1200mm!

    So far a 600mm folder would have done me!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #8
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    Nice work, it's rewarding when it all comes together.

    I was only just looking at my coolant tray the other week thinking how did I think up that idea using only a 1220 homemade folder had bench vice folder, lol.
    Just looked and it was around 2012, and I honestly can't remember, but works great anyway, lol

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f65/m...nt-tray-169680

    I always do a test bend with lines and measure as said about, also do this with my square tube bender.

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  9. #9
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    Came up great, now you need a spot welder

    As said above, I wouldn't worry about looking up K factors, so many things can effect bend allowance that (depending on how close you are trying to get) its easier just to fold a test piece(or as Micheal says, get some practice in and know your machine).

    If I say much else its going to sound like a rant from a grumpy old man lol

  10. #10
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    Hi Dave, Stu,

    Thanks for the encouraging comments.

    Forget K values seems to be the main takeaway from this and just measure as you go. Sounds like good advice.

    I think as I get better at folding I will find myself incorporating it more into my designs for future projects.

    I can see this folder being one of those things that I should have made years ago. It's so handy!

    Cheers,

    Simon



    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  11. #11
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    Spot welder hey Stu.

    Thought had crossed my mind! A set of Drawers made from stainless sheet

    Dave, I remember when you made that chip tray. I'm only just starting to appreciate the effort gone into making such a thing!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  12. #12
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    Mar 2011
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    Default

    Nice work.
    To get flush insides like you wanted I would have stitch welded it on the outside.

    On a side note, if you have a proper TIG (not a scratch or lift start) you can use that as the power source for a spot welder.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Spot welder hey Stu.

    Thought had crossed my mind! A set of Drawers made from stainless sheet

    Dave, I remember when you made that chip tray. I'm only just starting to appreciate the effort gone into making such a thing!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    When I made my ute toolboxes, I bought 1.2mm 2B sheet, took it home and marked it all out and cut it up.

    I then took it to a stainless sheet metal place to fold it.
    They put a second year guy on with me to manually fold it.
    Because I designed it with minimal outside welding after we had finished he asked what it was, and I had to rough assemble it to show him.

    Polishing was a pain

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
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  14. #14
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    Well I've mostly finished the drawers.

    Here's the bigger picture in terms of their use.

    The last picture is the front storage locker of my camper trailer before the installation.

    A huge volume of storage but it needed proper management (eg shelving etc.) for it to be useful.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    On a side note, if you have a proper TIG (not a scratch or lift start) you can use that as the power source for a spot welder.
    Interesting.
    Got a link?
    I had a bit of a google but all I could find was different versions of plug welding(granted some pretty neat)

    I started thinking but using a TIG and a drill press as a spot welder. Something along those lines did turn up. A TIG power source would be an improvement for starters being able to keep the tips closed while the weld cools.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYM7m_NAOOI

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