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  1. #331
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Teflon Dust Seals Done !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've managed to get five dust seals out of that piece of Teflon ! Four that are within two or three hundredths of a millimetre of one mm thick. The 25 thou parting blade works wonderfully. I did expect some trouble with ragging on the edges, but there is non. At least worth mentioning.

    24-08-2020=006.jpg

    These are the finished seals. The one on the left of the calliper jaws is the first one that I cut, and its 1.5 mm thick. I forgot about the blade thickness, so its twice 25 thou, just over half a mm too thick.

    24-08-2020=002.jpg

    This picture shows the setup for the parting blade.

    24-08-2020=001.jpg 24-08-2020=004.jpg 24-08-2020=003.jpg

    These three pictures show how I set the lathe up to get as near as makes no difference a 1 mm thick cut. The gauge was used as a poor mans DRO to set a cut distance of 65 thou. Taking one thickness of the parting blade into account. On the first cut I doubled the parting blade thickness and then took a cut before I realised it was wrong.

    I'll keep the thicker one as a reminder of my mistake. All four seals fit the collars perfectly. Now to machine the end cap bores with two grooves for the seals to fit into.

    More later ! Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #332
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Caps Grooved !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now machined a pair of 1.5 mm wide grooves into each of the end caps of the grinding spindle. I posted a picture of the grooving tool that I made for use on the lathe earlier in this thread. I've reposted the pictures below so you know what I'm using to machine the internal grooves in the end caps.

    IMG_0578.JPG 05-04-2020-005.jpg 05-04-2020-006.JPG

    The actual tool bit is a bit of 3 mm square HSS tool steel, suitably ground. I've surprised myself here, because this tool cut beautifully without any chatter or other difficulty, particularly since it had no top rake.

    26-08-2020-001.JPG

    This first picture is a family one, showing one of the end caps along with two of the Teflon rings that will be fitted into the grooves inside the end cap. The collar is also shown with the rouge ring fitted to it and inserted in the end cap, so you can see how deep the ring sits inside the groove.

    26-08-2020-003.JPG 26-08-2020-002.JPG

    These two pictures show the grooves machined into the end cap bore. The grooves are 2 mm apart. The ring at the bottom right in the second picture is the rouge one.

    26-08-2020-005.jpg 26-08-2020-004.JPG

    These two pictures show the end cap after the Teflon rings have been fitted.

    NOTE: The grooves are actually 1.5 mm wide ! This has been done in order to allow the Teflon ring to be deformed sufficiently in order to place it into the groove. The groove is also 5 thou deeper than the ring diameter for the same reason. If I had made the grooves the same size as the Teflon ring, I would have had to cut them in order to fit them. This would tend to defeat the labyrinth behaviour of the seal.

    26-08-2020-006.JPG

    This final picture shows the fitted collar in the end cap with the seals in place. I did drip a spot of thin oil on the other side to see if any would migrate through. I shall find out later, though I would have thought that capillary action would cause the oil to creep through anyway.

    I'm still contemplating putting a 3 mm keyway into the driving pulley bore !

    That is it for now Guys. Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #333
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Pulley keyed !

    Hi Guys,

    In my last post I mentioned that I was contemplating putting a 3 mm keyway in the pulley bore. So I decided that was what I was going to do ! Not having a suitable tool to cut a keyway I set to and made one.

    04-09-2020-003.jpg 04-09-2020-004.jpg 04-09-2020-005.jpg

    I had a short length of 12 mm steel bar in the scrap box, so I set it up in the mill vise on a bit of 10 mm flat bar and proceeded to mill a 3 mm slot down the edge about 50 mm long and 3 mm deep. Then drilled a 4 mm diameter hole right through the bar centred on the slot that I had just milled, and about 20 mm from the end of the bar.

    I've a large number of 10 x 32 Allen grub screws so a simple job to tap the hole to take a grub screw ! All was going great until I dropped the only 10 x 32 tap I had onto the tiled floor. It simply broke in two... Bugger !

    Anyway that was last Friday. I knew about a firm that supplied one of the engineering companies that I visit, Avon Tap & Die in Bristol UK (www.Avontapdie.co.uk). A quick phone call confirmed that they were happy to supply me and had 10 x 32 taps in stock. On Wednesday I received a packet with my new taps.

    04-09-2020-002.jpg 04-09-2020-001.JPG

    Very nice to actually get a UK made product. They cost me £15.76 inc P&P and VAT.

    Anyway today I managed to thread the hole and fit a grub screw. I also cut a piece of 3 mm square HSS tool steel to fit into the slot that I had made and ground it into a cutter, securing it in place with a coil spring. So I could adjust the cutting depth by using the grub screw to push the cutting blade out.

    04-09-2020-007.jpg 04-09-2020-006.jpg

    These pictures show the newly made slotting tool used in the drill press to cut the keyway in the aluminium pulley. The tool having the same diameter as the bore in the pulley. I used diesel fuel as a lubricant for this operation.

    04-09-2020-008.jpg

    And a picture of the keyed pulley. All that I have to do now is to drill and tap the pulley for a grub screw to press down on the top of the key.

    I still need to mill a slot in the grinder spindle to take the feather key and make a suitable key. A friend of mine has donated a motor from a Quorn grinder that should be suitable for driving this grinding spindle.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #334
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Spindle motor !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now stripped the double ended right angle gearbox from the end of the Parvalux motor. I wired it up and tested it. The worm on the shaft was a bit awkward to remove being secured by a Selok hollow pin. I ended up turning a 2 mm diameter punch with a 1 mm diameter spigot on the end to locate the punch in the end of the pin. A few light blows with a 1/2 Lb hammer was all it took to knock it out, then a quick blast with a cooks torch allowed it to be easily pulled off. The motor runs at 2880 rpm and has a 5/16" inch diameter shaft. I'll order a pulley on Monday for it.

    05-09-2020-002.jpg 05-09-2020-001.JPG

    The motor is easily reversed by moving the live feed wire to the other capacitor terminal.

    Thanks for looking !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #335
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Pulleys !

    Hi Guys,

    The new pulleys that I ordered on Monday have just turned up ! 28-03-09 and 72-03-09. Though the big one has a "Z" in front of the part number.

    11-09-2020-01.JPG

    These are the two pulleys, the large one 72 mm diameter is the wrong one, it doesn't have flanges on it, and the 5 mm bore has already been bored out to 8 mm. Not by me I might add. I've had a word with the supplier about it.

    I have now cut a slot in the grinder shaft for a 3 mm feather key to fit into.

    11-09-2020-02.JPG 11-09-2020-03.JPG

    These two pictures show the slot being machined in the spindle. The spindle was held in a small "V" block in the mill vise and supported under the threads with a steel block wedged under it to stop and vibration or movement whilst cutting. 1.6 mm deep, 22 mm long, 3 mm wide. 1400 rpm 40 mm a minute travel speed.

    The end of the spindle has yet to be cut off, and a key made.

    Thanks all for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #336
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default Cop out !

    Hi Guys,

    I've heard back from the supplier of the pulleys. They say that their supplier no longer fits flanges to their pulleys bigger than 44 mm and that the hole size is correct on pulleys bigger than 44 mm !

    They say they are happy to refund my money for one or both pulleys if I send them back at my expense, which is going to cost me a little more than a half of what I've already paid. As far as I'm concerned this is a cop out. Yes I can soon turn up a couple of flanges, but I shouldn't have to.

    I've complained that their web site shows these pulleys with flanges and that there is nothing that points out that the pulleys are supplied without them. I'm seriously thinking about raising a "sale of goods" complaint !

    Rant over !

    In the meantime I've now made a key and fitted it, so the pulley that I cut the keyway into is a very good fit on the shaft in either direction, so it wont matter which way round the pulley is fitted.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #337
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Good work on the keyway - it's satisfying when things turn out well.
    Have you thought about a round x-section belt, quite common on small grinders, pulleys easy to turn up from a round offcuts and the belt comes as a length - once you have the right size just melt the ends with a small flame and press together. Makes mounting the motor easier as you don't need to provide for belt tensioning.

  8. #338
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Thank you for your pat on the back .

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Good work on the keyway - it's satisfying when things turn out well.
    Have you thought about a round x-section belt, quite common on small grinders, pulleys easy to turn up from a round offcuts and the belt comes as a length - once you have the right size just melt the ends with a small flame and press together. Makes mounting the motor easier as you don't need to provide for belt tensioning.
    Actually I have a number of 3 mm pitch 8 mm wide timing belts between 400 and 550 mm in length to choose from, which is one reason I went for timing pulleys. In any case I'm going to have to be able to adjust the pullies distance because of the different sizes that I need for the different speeds.

    I've got a polyester round section belt on a cheap drill press that I bought. I'm not impressed by its performance so it just stands in a corner collecting dust. I originally thought that I could convert it into a small wood lathe and retire my Myford ML8 wood lathe, which is really far too big.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #339
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    I'm using a polyester round belt on my T&C grinder with no issues, I was initially a bit dubious about the method used to join the ends but so far no issues and I can't detect any belt slip, the motor though is a bit whimpy at 220W and I can hear it slows down if I grind more than a 3 or 4 thou at a time.

  10. #340
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Two Pulleys keyed !

    Hi Guys,

    I just finished keying the second of the two pulleys for the grinding spindle ! I've used the same technique on the small pulley as I did on the larger one. Unfortunately it didn't leave any room on the boss to drill and fit a grub screw. So I've had to turn a collar that fits over the boss and gives me room for a grubscrew to fit.

    19-09-2020-001.JPG 19-09-2020-002.jpg

    Here are the two pulleys side by side fitted on the spindle shaft. You can see the key just behind the large pulley.

    19-09-2020-005.JPG 19-09-2020-003.JPG 19-09-2020-004.jpg

    In this picture you can see both the keyway and the collar that I put on the boss to give me enough room to put a grubscrew into it. The red marks on the small pulley are where the hole will be drilled and threaded 10 X 32 for the grub screw to fit. The grubscrew on both pulleys will sit on top of the key, so no danger of marking the shaft and there is a few thou of clearance above the key.

    Don't believe anyone who tells you that making a key to fit a keyway is easy ! It isn't. Lots of concentration and careful work is needed to get a good fitting key and keyway. These pulleys are a very close fit and don't rock or wobble.

    I've learnt a lot making and using the keyway slotting tool that I made. I'll do a short write up about my experiences and what I've found out.

    That's all for now. Thanks for looking guys. Nice to have you along !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #341
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Motor mounting plate !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now got hold of a nice motor suitable for driving the grinding spindle of the TCG. It is a "Parvalux BD8 AC induction motor. having removed the double ended gearbox that it was fitted with and now having a suitable pulley that fits the shaft, I spent some time drawing up mounting plate details.

    05-09-2020-001.JPG SD8.png

    Here is the motor and the data sheet for it !

    I've taken the dimensions from this sheet and done a drawing for the plate to mount the motor onto the support block and hence the supporting column.

    Motor mount plate.png
    The motor is secured to the plate by M8 nuts and screws. The green area is where the mounting block will be fitted. The column running vertically through this block, the motor spindle being horizontal. The plate is 3 mm thick aluminium sheet. The holes in the motor frame are slotted to allow for left/right adjustment. I've just shown M8 threaded holes in the plate, the nuts are used to prevent vibration loosening the screws.

    More to come. Thanks for your support Guys.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #342
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Motor mounting block !

    Hi Guys,

    I've just finished doing the drawing for the motor mounting block. This is the lump of metal that fits between the motor mounting plate and the grinding spindle. It fits on the column and has the column lock, I've used a split cotter here and the height adjustment screw.

    Motor_Mounting-02.png

    The bottom left is looking at the side of the mounting block with the split cotter pin in yellow running away from you. The horizontal grey lines are the M6 threaded holes that are used to mount the motor plate on one side and the grinding spindle on the other.

    The top right view is looking down through the mounting block from above showing the position of the 20 mm diameter column and the M10 x 1.5 threaded hole for the height adjusting screw.

    Thanks for looking. More to come !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #343
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I managed to obtain a chunk of steel 50 mm X 60 mm X 55 mm in EN1, yesterday, and I've spent some time on the mill fly cutting it so that the sides are as square as I can make them. Then I've marked it out for the 20 mm bore, and the 12 mm split collet hole along with the position for the M10 X 1.5 threaded hole. Those are the pop marks on the blue bit you can see in the pictures.

    I set the block up in the four jaw chuck on the lathe and drilled an 11.5 mm hole for the split collet pin to go into. Using the piece of 12 mm precision ground rod as a gauge, I bored out the hole to 12 mm to suit it.

    25-09-2020-002.JPG 25-09-2020-001.JPG 25-09-2020-003.JPG

    Next job is to drill the hole for the M10 X 1,5 mm screw to fit, the tapping size is 8.5 mm. I've even got a brand new Avon HSS tap to use, though I suspect that a 50 mm deep hole will be hard going.

    I almost forgot ! I've made the plate for the motor mounting, I just need to round off the sharp corners on it.

    That's all for now folks, thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #344
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Motor mounting Block Threaded !

    Hi Guys,

    I've done a little more on the motor mounting block !

    27-09-2020-001.jpg 27-09-2020-002.JPG 27-09-2020-003.JPG

    I've drilled the 8.5 mm hole and threaded it M10 X1.5 mm. Its surprising how much easier it was using a new tap, I went all the way through. I then drilled the split collet pin M5 all the way through and threaded it M6 the full depth of the tap from both ends. I used M6 hex cap screws and washers to secure it in the bore of the mounting block. Its important that it cannot move when boring the 20 mm hole for the column.

    The next job is setting up and machining the 20 mm hole for the column to pass through.

    Thanks for looking Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #345
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Thumbs up Motor Mounting Block Bored !

    Hi Guys,

    Well I thought that since I had the lathe set up with the four jaw chuck that I might as well get on and create the 20 mm diameter hole for the support column to pass through. This would also machine the scallop in the split collet pin.

    27-09-2020-004.jpg 27-09-2020-006.jpg 27-09-2020-005.jpg

    After setting the block up so that it was centred in the four jaw chuck and adding two pieces of 8 mm thick bar to balance the offset weight, I drilled a 5 mm hole right through in order to clear the web of the 16 mm diameter blacksmiths drill that I used to enlarge the hole. Notice also the M6 cap screw securing the pin used for the split collet. There is a M6 cap screw at the other end.

    27-09-2020-008.jpg 27-09-2020-007.jpg

    here you can see me drilling the 16 mm hole. The second picture is where I've just come out of the other side of the block. At this point the drill is clear of the split collet pin.

    27-09-2020-009.jpg

    In this picture you can see how I squared up the boring bar to ensure that it would be parallel to the bore. I also checked that the boring bar would clear the far end of the bore without the workpiece hitting the topslide. That is a 60 mm stick out on a ten mm boring bar.

    27-09-2020-010.jpg

    Here I'm checking the depth of the boring bar and putting a pencil line across the top so I can see when I've bored far enough. Now I don't usually use carbide insert tooling, but I decided to give one a try on this job and see how it performs. Well its a lot of stick out, and it sang like a bird as I expected. I did try varying the speed and depth of cut. Well it prefers a big cut 1 mm quietened it tremendously, but it definitely doesn't like a 1 thou cut at all. However at this point the 20 mm carbide end mill that I used as a bore gauge pushed into the bore with difficulty. Two or three spring cuts smoothed things out and the gauge pushed through the bore more easily.

    27-09-2020-012.jpg 27-09-2020-011.jpg

    These two pictures show the 20 mm end mill pushed into the bore. It was much tighter than I liked so I smoothed the bore with some emery cloth and oil on a length of wood dowel. This achieved the desired result.
    The gauge now slides smoothly into the bore.

    So folks, that is the result of today's exertions. those observant of you will also notice that the lathe bed protector has changed colour to a nice shade of pink !

    Next job is to finish the split collet. More on that later.

    Thanks for looking Guys !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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