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Thread: Churchill Cylindrical Grinder
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30th Oct 2019, 02:04 AM #31
Hi Guys,
I think that I would have extended the sealing strip to go right around that lip. You have effectively created a gap above where coolant can get between the two lips above the strip and run between them.
A trick that I've done in the past to create a seal when I didn't have a suitable gasket was to use hot melt adhesive !
The application at the time was a washing machine water pump. It had a cast monkey metal support for the motor and a Bakelite cover that was held on by three spring clips round the edge. I greased the pump cover edges and heated the casting with a cooks torch, then ran a bead of hot melt around where the gasket would have been. I fastened the two parts together whilst still hot and trimmed the flash off with a Stanley knife when it had cooled.
The grease stopped the hot melt from sticking to the cover and allowed it to be removed without disturbing the hot melt. That pump was still in use nearly eight or nine years later without leaking when it got scrapped due to drum failure.
I still have the replacement seal for the pump, but it was never fitted. I also still have the motor and controller from the washer ! Waiting to be used for something or other useful.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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30th Oct 2019, 10:59 AM #32Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Healesville
- Posts
- 2,129
Hi John, I had a pretty good look where it was and wasn't leaking and it is not leaking now so i will just keep an eye on it, the clamp
and the seal seems to have done the trick and if it does leak again i will have another go at it.
I think the coolant is pretty much flung off the wheel before it gets to the second baffle.
Here is a pic showing how churchill has dealt with returning the coolant from the wheel guard.
cheers, shed
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30th Oct 2019, 07:33 PM #33
Thanks John,
I had no idea that there were baffles in there ! Your picture helped make it clear to me why you only put the sealing strip where you did.
Looking good I'm watching and learningBest Regards:
Baron J.
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8th Feb 2020, 09:45 PM #34Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Healesville
- Posts
- 2,129
Adjustment and measurement
I wanted a better/quicker and accurate way to adjust the table and also a way to accurately know how much I am grinding (DOC) and more accurate finishing so I have added a couple of indicators.
The Syvac, I fitted a rubber dust boot to the plunger and I bored a bit of aluminum and slid it on the other end to protect the outer end of the plunger.
The mounting bracket is made out of 50mm SHS and clamps on to the cast iron splash tray, the indicator is fitted to a spring loaded swing away mounting and this also has a micro switch that retracts the grinding head almost instantaneously should the adjustable rod give it a shove in a moment of brain fade on my behalf.
I thought that the indicator reading would bounce around a bit when the machine was running but it gives a very steady reading.
The adjustable rod is adjusted to suit the diameter of the job to be ground and also has enough length to accommodate for wheel wear and new full dia wheels.
For an anvil it has a short length of HHS pressed into a bored hole in the end of the rod and then ground to finish it.
The adjustable arm and the indicators for checking the job and adjusting the table are removed after use and put away before grinding.
cheers, shed
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8th Feb 2020, 10:15 PM #35Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2008
- Location
- N.W.Tasmania
- Posts
- 1,407
That looks really nice Shed, well thought out and nicely executed. Like John (Barron) I am watching and learning too.
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