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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Generator

    Hi fella's, the 110 volt DC generator that powers the electrical circuit for the hydraulics for the grinding dwell control is a goer.

    If anyone is interested in the timer control board you can see it here https://metalworkforums.com/f309/t20...estions-please

    Ok.... firstly don't be lazy, like me, don't use a CCMT insert to cut copper.
    Yeah it works sorta but not as good as HSS, as can be seen in the photo below it cut pretty rough and smudged into the gap between the segments. No biggie as I needed to undercut the commutator anyway.
    After undercutting I finished with wd40 and 400 wet and dry on a lathe file.

    I made a rotary grinding tool to dress the damaged/worn brushes, with the emery glued on it was pretty close to the same diameter as the commutator, as you can see it clogged the emery but still did the job.

    So now I need to make some pulley's, with the generator spinning at 1150 rpm it puts out 110 volts so I will need to make the ratio to suit that. The oil pump drive motor also drives the generator and has a double row sprocket on the shaft for the generator and nothing on the generator shaft, I will remove the sprocket and fit a pulley's and a belt.
    Both the oil pump drive motor and the generator have virtually no adjustment, maybe half a bolt diameter of adjustment, so I think that it will end up with a spring loaded idler pulley.

    cheers, shed
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  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default generator drive

    I found some pulley's to drive the generator, I made a drive pulley out of an old howard bantam pulley and bored it to suit the shaft on the test motor pictured in the previous post.
    I then cleaned up an old alloy pulley to about the size i needed and fitted it on the generator and fitted a belt, i adjusted the motor rpm with the vfd to exactly the same rpm that the drive motor on the grinder runs at and measured the generator voltage.
    I removed and machined the pulley 3 or 4 times until the generator was running at the speed required and putting out 110 volts.
    Then rebored the cast pulley to suit the motor on the grinder and gave it a keyway.
    I put the gen back on the machine and made a idler pulley bracket and tidied up another pulley, bored it and fitted a couple of brgs.

    Test run
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by shedhappens; 24th Sep 2019 at 07:37 PM. Reason: editing

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Grinding wheel balance weights

    I noticed that when the grinding wheel was running that I could see the work head vibrating, it wasn't much of a vibration tho and it felt only slight...... but...

    There was no weights in the bucket of rust that came with the machine nor was there any in the spare wheel flange, i guess the pics should tell the story here, both of the wheel flange dovetails needed re machining and as you will see the balance weights are not quite finished but well on the way.

    cheers, shed
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  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi John,

    How are the weights secured, or are they loose like those on CD drives ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John,

    How are the weights secured, or are they loose like those on CD drives ?
    Hi John, there will be a grub screw at the centre line of the 2 halfs.
    With a bit of luck i will get the threaded holes done in the next day or so..... actually... it might be a little longer because i am thinking that i would like all the threaded holes to have the threads start at the same point so that all the weights (inner and outer) are interchangeable with each other, if that makes sense

    cheers, shed

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi John,

    Yes that makes perfect sense.

    I must admit I did struggle to try and work out how you would secure them where you needed them. Very nice work making them as well.

    Thanks for the explanation.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    That's a nice job with the balancing weights shed.

    My surface grinder uses similar weights as well.

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Finished the wheel weights

    Here are the finished weights, the longer weight is a spare, when i say spare i mean that if it is needed it gives me the option of using it as is or cutting it in half and having 2 smaller weights.

    I drilled the first hole a bit south of where i was planning, i wanted all the weights to be interchangeable with each other so i went
    with that hole placement for all of them.

    To get all the threads to start in the same place i drilled through the fixture with the 5.5mm tapping drill then put a 1/4" drill through the back of that hole and leaving about 12mm of the 5.5mm hole, then came in from the back and tapped the remaining 12mm of the 5.5mm hole to 1/4 unf.

    With the weights clamped into the fixture i then tapped them from the back using the thread in the fixture as a thread starting and following guide.

    For a grub screw effectiveness test i fitted all the weights into one of the flanges and set that up in the lathe and faced the weights,
    none moved so i called that job done

    Next up is a balancing gizmo, bit of a problem is there is no through hole in the outer wheel flange for a shaft to pass through.

    cheers, shed
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default balancing gizmo

    I still have a couple of other things to do to the grinder so i have not tried it yet.

    The spindle parts are pressed together and turned to within a beez from the finished size then ground to size and i skimmed the flange
    front and back while it was in the t&c grinder.

    The spindle tube is an aftermarket m/c fork slider with a slug pressed into each end and turned for the brg's.

    The brgs are ceramic brgs bought off ebay, they seemed a little gritty when i got them so i washed and blew them out and they are
    much better. The shaft spins very freely and i think it should work ok for balancing this size grinding wheel.

    I knocked up a frame and SHEZZZAM there is a wheel balancer on the bench

    cheers, shed
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  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi John,

    Thats a lovely job
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default balancing

    I weighed the 8 flange and mounting bolts, they were up to 1 gram different in weight, i took a bit off the ends with a flap disc
    to get them all the same. Then i dressed the wheel before putting it on the gizmo.
    The ceramic brgs did not work that fantastic, i washed the oil out of them and they might of worked a bit better.
    So with a bit of guestamation and nearly falling off the chair a few times from getting dizzy watching that rock spinning around i think that i got it fairly close to balanced, i will soon know when i grind something.
    The vibration that i could previously feel on the workhead has gone so that is promising, just for entertainment i did the 2 bob trick with all 4 motors running.

    cheers, shed
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  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default replaced missing tailstock boot

    Another little job ticked off the list.
    I took some measurements and I found a suitable CV boot in a specials box that I had seen at an auto shop.
    It works like a little beauty

    cheers, shed
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  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default Coolant stuff

    As you would expect the coolant tank was a swamp, or maybe it was a black lagoon.
    I shoveled it out and cleaned it with hot water and degreaser, cleaned the all the pipe fittings ect and fitted new clear pipe.
    I poured in 88 ltrs of water and 4 1/2 ltrs of coolant, I reckon it probably wants about 100 ltrs all up
    One problem that needed attention was the wheel cover, the cover bowed out at the bottom and the coolant poured out of the crack
    and straight into the coolant reservoir and by taking this shortcut it avoided the settlement tank.
    So I made a poor copy of the existing cover clamp and fitted some grinder guard sealing strip.
    Sparks soooon......

    cheers, shed
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  14. #29
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Do you think the grinder guard sealing will hold up for any length of time???
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Do you think the grinder guard sealing will hold up for any length of time???
    Kryn
    Hi Kryn, "will it hold up"....... i pondered that very question myself, I thought about all the foam air cleaners and precleaners that i have cleaned and oiled over the years..... and given that it was in my hand and i didn't have to go for an hrs drive to find something else the answer to the qwestion "will it hold up" was .....suck it and see man...

    cheers, shed

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