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20th Nov 2019, 03:08 PM #1
Help. Vintage Industrial Grinder & Linisher
I’m looking for info on this machine, no makers name or even motor plate. It looks to be a shop built linisher assembled on a large grinder.
It was donated to a men’s shed who decided it wasn’t suitable for there needs and ended up with me thanks to a tip off by another forumite.
I maybe going back to the men’s shed with my gear to give an intro to Blacksmithing and possibly setting them up with a forge.
The linisher could possibly be made from off the shelf components but the plate steel frame made in house.
I’d like to fit a big wire wheel to it and possibly a vfd for speed control. The vfd may not be viable without knowing what type & spec motor.…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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20th Nov 2019, 05:27 PM #2
The motor and stand are very similar to those of a smaller (2.5-3HP) buffer unit we had at work in 2006, and fairly typical of a low power metal polisher. Ours was ancient when we got it and the data plate was well beyond readable then. We watched it running prior to purchase, took it to the factory and had it plugged in an running within an hour as a slightly inclined open belt linisher and buffer. I also recall seeing similar setups with different motors (to 15HP) in commercial polishing shops, but with both ends active instead of having one end guarded. The red turn around wheel mechanism at the top is also reasonably familiar. I suspect the the entire linisher setup is a commercial one rather than shop made, and the rig has been assembled with a motor and stand either to hand or purchased for the unit.
Sorry, but I can't give you any more info in terms of setting it up to run off a VFD.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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20th Nov 2019, 05:34 PM #3Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Do you mean a 240V VFD? If so you'll need to hope its a Y connected motor.
If its already a ∆ connected motor then you are out of luck to connect to a 240V VFD
If the motor has no name plate then there is no way around having to open it up and take a butchers.
If it has a common point then its a Y and it can be converted to ∆ which makes it a 240V VFD compliant motor.
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21st Nov 2019, 05:36 PM #4Diamond Member
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More Info on the Linisher
The red coloured belt tensioner & tracking device is a 3 M product called a "Backstand Idler" made & sold by 3M co where I worked 45 yrs ago the whole unit looks homemade as many were.
The contact wheel is hard to see but appears to be too narrow for the abrasive belt, or its edge are badly worn.
Bruce
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23rd Nov 2019, 06:00 PM #5Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2009
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- Auckland, NZ
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23rd Nov 2019, 07:47 PM #6
Bruce,
That’s interesting I met a French knife maker and she called linishers Backstands. I thought it a quirk of translation. Seems like it is potentially a proper term if you guys sold product labelled that way. Thanks for the info & education.
I still have it sitting in the covered trailer as it’s more than a one man job to move. But I believe the belt is 5mm or more wider than the wheel. I’m not sure it is a rubber coated, I think it’s just base metal so not a contact wheel?…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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24th Nov 2019, 08:58 PM #7
I didn't throw the term 'backstand idler' into my previous post because I am used to it being used for slightly inclined belt systems where it literally is an idler or turnaround mounted to a back stand. In the pics provided, I suspected that calling an idler on a near vertical belt a backstand idler might cause confusion.
With respect to the drive wheel, they come in a range of styles depending on user requirements. I am aware of three setups, a metal wheel which provides an extremely hard surface under the belt, rubber coated wheels which give a medium hardness that could, in theory at least, be varied by changes in rubber compound or varying the 'tread pattern' on the wheel, or fabric ones which are reasonably soft and quite forgiving if you get the approach angle of your work slightly wrong. The differences are similar to grinding against a wheel versus belt grinding against a platten versus belt grinding in an unrestrained belt segment on a knife grinder.
It is generally important that the contact wheel is the same width as the belt, too narrow and the belt edges will depress as the work approaches and departs the belt, which will cause the belt to wear rapidly at the edge of the wheel, and ultimately slit the edges off the belt, most likely tearing across the edge and whipping belt segments around the operator and work. If the wheel is too wide, there is a high probability that the work and wheel may come into direct contact on on approach and departure, possibly marring the work or damaging the edges of the wheel rendering it next to useless for working with the correct width belt.
It is quite likely that the last owner/user was using whatever belts they could get their hands on to avoid buying a new stock of belts for the machine before they stopped using it. The width criteria is less strict for the turnaround wheel, in that the wheel here should be at least as wide as the belt, but can be substantially wider without reducing safety or utility as the work should not be in contact with the wheel at any time.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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