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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    If you decide that the chuck is tooo far gone, I wouldn't mind buying it for a welding rotator I want to make. Don't want/need anything fancy. Is the bore about 22mm?
    Kryn
    I think I'm going to hold onto the 3 jaw for now. It's still got it's uses on the lathe.


    As I mentioned before, a kind forum member had a backing plate that fits the lathe. I've now got the backing plate in the post, and got it fitted to the lathe!

    This afternoon I fitted a 72-100 Toolmaster 4 jaw Independant chuck from H&F to the backing plate. I was eyeing off some of the chucks online, and realised that for about the same price as ordering one from china, and waiting who knows how long for it to arrive, I can order what appears to be the same chuck, for the same price, and have it in 2 days! So i'm pretty happy with that!


    Chuck on lathe.jpg
    Here is the chuck fitted! I do need to turn the backing plate down to the diameter of the chuck.

    And here is a WIP shot of the Steve's workshop engine I'm working on:
    waitig screws.jpg

    It's rough, but it's my first project, so I'm pretty happy with it!
    Hopefully when I get the m2 tap, and screws to finish it, it'll even run on compressed air.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,439

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    Hate to tell you this, but the pics didn't work out, it comes up with the link https://imgur.com/88RNhOjlZoinks! You've taken a wrong turn.

    If you attach the pics though the Forum rather than another system, they'll always attach.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default

    That's strange. I've uploaded them via the forum, so hopefully everyone can see them.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    67
    Posts
    4,439

    Default

    They're now on there, did you load them by //metalworkforums.com/redirect-...com%2F88RNhOjl as that is what the link is you posted.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default Lathe Update

    Just this weekend, I've done a little upgrade to the lathe.
    I flipped the old 1/2 hp 1440rpm motor for a little brushless motor sold for sewing machines. It is 550 watts -3/4 hp, and will do 4500rpm. I've seen a few people do put these motors on various lathes with success, so I though I would give it a try.

    The big thing I gain with the new motor for this lathe is the speed control. before I was limited to changing the belts between a few options that was a pain, and even never really slowed things down enough.

    The speed controller allows control from 400rpm (motor speed) through to 4500rpm.
    Speed is adjusted by a little arm that on a sewing machine would connect to the peddle. Some people replace the hall effect sensor within with a potentiometer, but the way I have set it up, I really like the leaver method. I can set a top speed with the controller, and then use the leaver to quickly switch between on / off or pick a speed between.

    So far, I'm finding that having the controller set to 2000RPM more than adequate. I need to get a tachometer to see that translates to spindle speed, as there is a few pulley reductions in the system currently. From what I have read online, with the original motor, the lathe had a top speed of 900rpm at the spindle on the fastest belt setting. I suspect it's probably not a wise idea to run the lathe too much faster than that, given the amount of wear in the lathe as it is. I haven't opened up the spindle, but I suspect the plain bearings in this lathe probably aren't exactly in the best condition.

    Also, seemings I'm posting, I'll add that I've finished the little steam engine that I mentioned in the previous post. It works really well. It could be finished a bit nicer, but I wasn't trying to make an art piece, just a first attempt at making an engine. I've started working on my second engine, which is based off the same Steves Workshop plans, but I'm going to atttempt to modify it, and turn it into a 2 cylinder engine.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default

    I'm having fun with this lathe, when the temperature isn't 40+ degrees outside anyway.
    I would like to get the change gears and dog clutch operational again, to give me a power feed / allow me to try some threading etc...
    The only thing is, it was all missing when I got the lathe. I'm missing the banjo bracket, all change gears and the internal mechanism of the clutch
    I think by the looks of it, even the leadscrew has been replaced, as there doesn't look like there is any sign of the clutch or attachment for it on the end of it.

    So that's going to be interesting, as I'll need to source / make a banjo bracket, a set of change gears, all the components of the dog clutch, and possibly a leadscrew.
    Does anyone out there have a photo of the change gear setup on these early lathes?

    I figure I can build a banjo bracket out of some steel or aluminium and a bit or elbow grease, but i'm not sure the dimension it needs to be. my plan is to probably make a single armed bracket, and guess the size of it, and hope it works.

    Change gears are interesting, they are out there, and my understanding is they can be adapted from change gears from Myford ML7's, however nothing I've read suggests what the modification they require to fit. Plus, I don't want to invest a lot of money in the lathe, as I think it's pretty rough.
    I've seen people making 3d printed gears with pretty good success, so that might also be an option.

    The most complicated part is probably the dog clutch. It's going to require rebuilding the entire mechansim so it works. The principal seems straight forward, but we'll see how that works out.

    Would there be anyone out there that has any info on the change gear setup, and/or the dog clutch on this lathe? If anyone has a similar lathe, some photos, and a few measurements would be of great assistance.

    Lathe.co.uk says that it would have came with the following change gears: 2 x 20t, 25t, 30t, 35t, 40t, 45t, 50t, 55t, 60t, and 70t as well as an optional 20/21 tooth composite gear for metric thread cutting.
    Metric thread cutting would be an ideal option, but at first, I guess the best option is to start with the fewest possible gears to get things working, and then expand from there I guess.

    I do have what appears to be a couple of 30 tooth and a 20 tooth change gears from another lathe that seem to mesh, so It might be possible to modify those in some way if that's beneficial.

    I'll attach a few pictures to show you what I'm working with.

    Cheers Everyone
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

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    I've been playing with the lathe again, working on getting the power feed going in this lathe again.
    As of right now, I have a working dog clutch mechanism built and in the lathe.

    20200223_095730.jpg20200223_095928.jpg20200223_100528.jpg20200223_112431.jpg

    It seems to work while I engage and disengage it while turning the leadscrew. I guess we'll see how well it goes once I get power to it.

    Next step is to work on the banjo bracket for the lathe sorted, and sourcing some change gears that will suite. I managed to get someone on the facebook aussie machinging group to scan their bracket from another Advance lathe, so I can make something out of steel that will be roughly the same shape as the original.

    After printing out the scanned bracket at actual size, I've managed to model it in fusion 360, which is handy to get an idea of how things need to go, but I'm thinking of just using the full sized print out as a template, and transfer it to a sheet of plate steel, then get to work cutting drilling and filing everything out. I don't have any fancy tools for this, so it'll be angle grinders, drills and files to get everything to size.
    banjo bracket screenshot.jpg
    The round part that mounts onto the lathe I'm thinking of turning up out of steel, and welding it onto the plate steel main body. The original was a single piece cast iron bracket.

    As for change wheels, I'm thinking of trying to get someone to 3d print some to start with, just to get something spinning. It seems to be a thing, and there are myford ML7 (which i understand are usable on the advance lathes) gearsets ready to print out there. Then if I happen to source or attempt to make gears later on, then that's even better. I'm mindful of not dropping too much cash on this old lathe, as I don't want to over invest in it, and then upgrade to something else later, and not be able to get at least some of my money back for it.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    588

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    Re change gears, I suggest a good starting point would be to determine the Diametral Pitch (DP) of the original gear on the outer end of your headstock spindle. A spur gear of any tooth number will mesh properly with another gear of any tooth number provided they have the same diametral pitch (and pressure angle). To determine the diametral pitch, measure the outside diameter in inches of the gear and count the teeth. The DP will be N+2 divided by the outside diameter of the gear where N is the number of teeth on the gear. This should be close to a whole number like 18 or 20. The Myford gears are 20 DP, so this will confirm whether the Myford gears will mesh with your existing gear. On a lathe of that age the pressure angle of the teeth will almost certainly be 14.5 degrees.

    If you want to source stock change gears, assuming your gear turns out to be 20 DP, any stock 20 DP 14.5 degree PA gear including Myford gears with the required tooth number will mesh, but you might have to adjust the thickness and bore to suit your lathe. Most if not all of your change gears will also need a keyway in the bore;this can be cut with a file if necessary. If the Myford gears are the same bore as your lathe uses they should come with the keyway already cut.

    Frank.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Thanks for the info Franco, that should be a great help to work out which gears I can use. I really haven't worked out the best way to go with locating change gears for it yet, apart from keeping an eye out for some in all the usual places.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    588

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    Check the number of threads per inch on your leadscrew. if it is 8 TPI I will give you a copy of my Brackenbury and Austin lathe's threading chart if you think it will be useful. It uses the same range of gears as you quoted above. If you have two 30T gears and they are 20DP (or what ever the DP happens to be) you won't need a second 20T gear. The duplicate gear is only used when cutting the same TPI as your leadscrew: 2 x 30T gears will work just as well as 2 x 20T gears.

    The Brackenbury and Austin threading chart only covers TPI threads, so I don't have a metric conversion chart using the 21T gear: I use a different system for metric threads. I do remember finding a copy of a Myford metric thread chart using the 21T gear on the internet: I don't remember if it required any other extra gears on top of the ones going up in five tooth steps to cut the full range of ISO preferred metric threads though.

    Frank.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

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    I just double checked the gear on the spindle, and it's 20 teeth, and it's roughly 1.1 inches diameter. Doing the maths, that lands on a diametral pitch of 20.
    That confirms that myford gears should be compatible.

    The leadscrew is 8 tpi on the lathe, and I have found pictures of the Advance lathe's thread cutting chart online, that covers imperial threads, so I should be OK for that, cheers. I'll have a look for a metric chart. I did find a little program on one of the Advance lathe info websites someone had created that calculates both imperial and metric threads, so if I can't find a ready made one, I can probably make my own chart too. That will be handy.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    588

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    Here is the Myford ML7 Manual. The metric threading chart using the 21 tooth gear is on page 33. Knew I had seen one before. Wish I had found it before I went to the trouble of making a 37T/47T compound metric conversion gear and several non-standard gears for the B & A lathe!

    https://wiki.nottinghack.org.uk/imag...per7_Lathe.pdf

    Frank.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    canberra
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Cheers. That will be helpful. Most of what i make will be metric, unless of course im making something for the lathe.

    Now i need to find some change gears. There was a set of myford gears on ebay this evening but i dragged my feet and someone else snapped them up

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