Thread: Tatra v8 test run

I'm going to get this motor set up for a test run, took out all the spark plugs they good just give them a clean and reinstall. Took off all the rocker covers looks clean have seen ones which were coved in black oil and crap, all the rockers look good. There was a bit of water in the oil pan looking from the front of the motor so spared lots of WD40 down each spark plug hole.

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Working on the test stand, using some steel box tubes and a 8mm thick steel plate to mount the motor onto. No engine mounts on the side these motors mount on the back like VW engines, i might place a support under the oil pan.

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Welded up the stand and fit some castor wheels on, the motor bounces a bit so will add support somewhere under the motor.

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I decided to remove the cooling turbines and some of the metal shrouds just to see if there some more work to be done and yes the oil coolers will need a good clean and bend back the cooling fins, most of them are bent. The oil drain tube seals look OK but will see when i run the motor, it's been sitting for a while seals tend to dry up.
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Done some work on the oil coolers, need to rig up something so i can add some air and drop the oil cooler into water to see if there is any leaks.
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Made up a couple of supports and place them just under the block so no more bouncing. Screwed in some eye nuts so i can lift the unit onto a trailer. new cork gasket made for the oil pan and some paint, took a couple of photos under the block before i bolted the oil pan back on don't see anything nasty inside the block
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Done a mock up of the starter motor set up and machine up a boss to bolt on the flex plate, the starter motor is from a XC falcon and the flex plate from Falcon AU automatic 6cyl. I think this should work out

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Finish up mounting the stater motor and flex plate, and charging up a battery to do a test.
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Started working on the control panel and exhaust system wating on a coupe of hot dogs to add to the exhaust, i think it will give the motor a nice note I found a electrical schematic drawing and made some changes to what i think i need to make the motor run

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Originally Posted by Turbine Builder

Finish up mounting the stater motor and flex plate, and charging up a battery to do a test.
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G/day Turbs, i could be wrong but i think the starter needs to come in from the other side otherwise it will crank the engine the wrong way.
Also there is not usually a fuse on the power cable from the battery to the starter, that starter will pull quite a few amps so your 10 amps fuse will blow instantly, and for your other circuit the coil will pull 4 or 5 amps plus the gauges, the batt sense on the alt uses maybe .5 amp so maybe a 15 or 20 amp fuse....

Hello Mark,

Shed is right, that 10 amp fuse will blow in a fraction of a second when the starter motor gets turned on. That motor will take three or four hundred amps for the time that it takes to start to spin and then once the engine is turning the current will drop to a much lower value, maybe 30 or 40 amps.

Otherwise coming along nicely !

Originally Posted by shedhappens

G/day Turbs, i could be wrong but i think the starter needs to come in from the other side otherwise it will crank the engine the wrong way.
Also there is not usually a fuse on the power cable from the battery to the starter, that starter will pull quite a few amps so your 10 amps fuse will blow instantly, and for your other circuit the coil will pull 4 or 5 amps plus the gauges, the batt sense on the alt uses maybe .5 amp so maybe a 15 or 20 amp fuse....

Hi Shed, yeah i was thinking that will be the case. I don't think i can fit the starter from the other side as the two large oil coolers will be in the way maybe under the motor When i get a battery we will find out. Thanks for the tip on the circuit
I could bolt back the original flywheel and start the motor like this chap from a time when real men could pull start a v8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5enyrslPr70 From a time when real men could pull start a v8!

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hello Mark,

Shed is right, that 10 amp fuse will blow in a fraction of a second when the starter motor gets turned on. That motor will take three or four hundred amps for the time that it takes to start to spin and then once the engine is turning the current will drop to a much lower value, maybe 30 or 40 amps.

Otherwise coming along nicely !

Thanks John I'm a dumy when it comes to electrical stuff. I'm wating on a price for new oil coolers and some other parts for the motor, may get a crank handle as well and start the motor by hand crank

Originally Posted by shedhappens

G/day Turbs, i could be wrong but i think the starter needs to come in from the other side otherwise it will crank the engine the wrong way.
Also there is not usually a fuse on the power cable from the battery to the starter, that starter will pull quite a few amps so your 10 amps fuse will blow instantly, and for your other circuit the coil will pull 4 or 5 amps plus the gauges, the batt sense on the alt uses maybe .5 amp so maybe a 15 or 20 amp fuse....

G/day Shed, just going though my photos of this project and looks like i can fit the stater under the motor, as you can see in this photo there is room to fit that stater maybe a bit of cutting some metal out and all good IMG_9291.jpg

Originally Posted by BaronJ

Hello Mark,

Shed is right, that 10 amp fuse will blow in a fraction of a second when the starter motor gets turned on. That motor will take three or four hundred amps for the time that it takes to start to spin and then once the engine is turning the current will drop to a much lower value, maybe 30 or 40 amps.

Otherwise coming along nicely !

Why will the starter motor still be drawing current once the motor is running?