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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    N.W.Tasmania
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    1,311

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    Easier to just weld a bolt to the nut and then just undo it. Plenty of my old boiler making mates would have it out in no time. The stud would most likely be good to go again, but shortening it a bit may be prudent if being too long was the cause of a lack of engagement with a hex key.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Ipswich QLD
    Age
    65
    Posts
    1,956

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    Left hand drill, easy out impact driver

    Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    234

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    Hi Ray,
    If we did that, it would be drilling the nut I guess, so would need to be a drill bigger than 1/2Ē.
    My mate hasnít got back to me but he has read all your suggestions and says thanks.

    Iím not chasing him on this as it could turn out to be Ďinterestingí.

    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    900

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    Bit late to the party but..
    Id be grinding the head off the stud and belting it out from the back with a punch

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    682

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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    Bit late to the party but..
    Id be grinding the head off the stud and belting it out from the back with a punch

    How would you get to it?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    900

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    Die grinder and long burr if necessary
    Yeah my punch it out from the back idea needs a bit more sophistication, a small threaded expansion jack placed between the disc and the stud. If thatís not possible drill and tap it from the front and put a bolt into it and get a slide hammer onto it.

    If you can get the head off the stud getting it out is somewhat less problematic.

    Depending on how worn the rotors were Iíd consider just drilling through it to get a drift in

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    682

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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    Die grinder and long burr if necessary
    Yeah my punch it out from the back idea needs a bit more sophistication, a small threaded expansion jack placed between the disc and the stud. If thatís not possible drill and tap it from the front and put a bolt into it and get a slide hammer onto it.

    If you can get the head off the stud getting it out is somewhat less problematic.

    Depending on how worn the rotors were Iíd consider just drilling through it to get a drift in
    Easier said than done.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    314

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    G'day HB,
    My F.I.L.'s latest adventures reminded me of your struggles, in this thread...!
    We went to service the front brakes on his (~3 y.o.) Triton.
    On the RHS, one stud snapped clean off, another is SPINNING in the hub/rotor.
    Bit of a pickle...
    Gorilla tyre fitters to blame, being lazy about selecting rattle gun settings.

    Good luck!
    A.
    'Waratah' spring hammer by Hands & Scott c.1911- 20, 'Duffy, Todd & Williams' spring hammer c.1920, Premo lathe- 1953, Premo filing machine.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    2,877

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewOC View Post
    Gorilla tyre fitters to blame, being lazy about selecting rattle gun settings.
    where do they get those apes? How hard can it be to correctly torque a nut when youíre doing it all day? I donít expect them to get an accurate torque setting with a rattle gun, but why wrench it up to the point of damaging the studs?
    Chris

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    57
    Posts
    192

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    where do they get those apes? How hard can it be to correctly torque a nut when youíre doing it all day? I donít expect them to get an accurate torque setting with a rattle gun, but why wrench it up to the point of damaging the studs?

    Because more ugga duggaís are always better !
    There is quite a reputation of tyre shops doing exactly this.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    234

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    Iíve always carried a decent wheel brace and piece of pipe.
    If Iím there when tyre fitters etc are finishing Iíll do it myself.( with just the brace).
    The pipe is for when Iím not and getting older itís easier to stand on the extension than do the back in.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,311

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    where do they get those apes? How hard can it be to correctly torque a nut when youíre doing it all day? I donít expect them to get an accurate torque setting with a rattle gun, but why wrench it up to the point of damaging the studs?
    It probably boils down to a lack of training and supervision, more than anything else. The average tyre fitter would most likely have started out as an unskilled manual labourer. It's not too often that they might have had a trade background, they probably got the job because they were strong young blokes, who could handle a truck or grader wheel if necessary. If training is sparse, and the importance of correct torquing up is not explained, checked regularly and reinforced, over tightening will occur possibly because under tightening might have a more spectacular and immediate result.

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