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Thread: Painting metal flake
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21st Apr 2020, 02:59 PM #61
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21st Apr 2020, 03:52 PM #62Golden Member
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Shout out to Michael at this place. Really easy to deal with and fast and effective responses:
https://www.vinylletteringdirect.com.au
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22nd Apr 2020, 03:59 PM #63Golden Member
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I sense some mid week clear coating in my future...
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22nd Apr 2020, 10:30 PM #64Golden Member
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Moving along tonight to try and close this build out. Managed to get the decals on. Taped the frame where I wanted to lay the decals and eye balled getting it centred on each tube. I got sent a few spare decals so I added them on to the fork legs. The decals came attached to transfer stickers, were super easy to attach and stuck with aggression.
Really happy with how it turned out:
Can’t wait to get it all cleared, colour sanded and buffed.
Also the replacement tyres came in today too. The old ones were blue and had to go:
Put these on, a little skinnier, a road tread, plus they look absolutely gorgeous I reckon and can’t wait to get them on the frame:
Forgot to mention I took the rear brake mechanism out of the hub. I hate them and think the bikes are easier to ride without them. This bike also came with a rear brake, so it’s now a free wheeler with dual brakes.
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23rd Apr 2020, 06:56 PM #65Golden Member
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Painting metal flake
Stole an hour this afternoon to rub down the rest of the frame, getting rid of all the shiny bits in preparation for the final coats of clear. I did it with a scotchbrite to ensure I didn’t go too far and I also rubbed over the decals to provide a key for the clear coat.
Mixed up 150ml of clear and set about hitting the frame. This time I turned down the fan to minimal but not exactly shut and I turned the paint down too so I minimises the risk of runs again. I had almost a frame tube width of paint but it was very low.
It worked great for a light initial mist coat, 5-7 mins between coats and the second one was laid a little heavier by opening up the paint a little. I went over the entire forks and frame with my lights after the second coat to check the coverage. Noticed it was a little light in slate as.
3rd coat I went for a full coverage wet coat, so I opened up the paint again and made sure I was laying enough paint on the light areas from the second coat.
Another wait and a final 4th coat to maximise the amount of clear to run back on the decals.
I’m going to leave the clear for a few days at least to fully cure. That was a learning from when I originally tried to fix the runs. When I did the final scotchbrite today I noticed the clear was much easier to use a razor on. Obviously I was trying to fix when it was too fresh and I don’t want to run the risk of ruining this stage. I’m not sure I got any defects this time, so I’m pretty happy with that
I don’t normally get feedback on my projects but once the clear had flashed off I had to bring it in the house to show the missus and my eldest. The response was “WOW!”
The final sand and flow coat has made a HUGE difference. The flake is electric and the clear looks flawless, deep and incredible.
Can’t wait to get it all done.
Next up I need to wait for the clear to fully cure, then I’m going to feather the decal edges with some 2000 grit before cutting and polishing the whole bike.
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24th Apr 2020, 09:29 AM #66Golden Member
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Painting metal flake
I’m calling it (nearly) done! Final clear is on and it’s looking amazing. I touched the frame last night and accidentally put a finger print in the clear coat but I’m happy to report that it’s shrunk back to nothing this morning.
Brought the frame and forks outside this morning to check the work and also to take some snaps, but it still needs a solid bake and time to let the clear go right off.
I’m not going to do much (post clear) work on it now as I’m worried I’ll mess it up, however it will get a very light going over with 2000 grit before a final cut and polish.
Another reason I’m not going to rub the clear back too much can be seen in this picture. The very tips of the front decal are standing up and poking out the clear. So the front will get a very light rub back with 2000 grit before polish. The side decals are buried a lot deeper, so I’ll likely give them a good go with 2000.
Because I can’t photo the frame effect I’ve done this which hopefully shows a bit of what it does but the sparkle just can’t be captured on a screen. Has to be seen in person to appreciate it fully.
https://youtu.be/bLT-DtJIYgE
The forks and frame are now back in the shed hanging for a few days to get the clear as hard as possible before I think about sanding, cutting and polishing. Once that’s done it will be final assembly.
I’ve really enjoyed the process and love painting. I’m generally pretty handy with stuff in the garage but didn’t think this would turn out as well as this... I’ve surprised myself. Would happily do it all again.
Maybe I do need to paint the 400F tank and seat!
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24th Apr 2020, 01:42 PM #67
Ed an amazing outcome once its assembled final photos pls. She is one lucky girl. Now all she needs is a BMX track, suit, kit and start racing it
She'll win every race blinding all others
Thanks for the wip
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25th Apr 2020, 11:38 AM #68Golden Member
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Any advice on colour sanding, cutting and buffing?
The clear was glassy to begin with and now I’ve gone over the whole bike and flattened the clear over the decals and gotten rid of the orange peel (that was pretty minor anyway). Sanded with 1500 and then 2000 grit.
Need to go and get a buffer but trying to rub the forks with Mother’s Step 1 Pure Polish it’s not really taking away the haze from the 2000 grit.
Do I need a power buffer to really polish it up or am I using the wrong starting compound?
Making a trip for a buffer this afternoon so can buy bits then to get the frame glassy hopefully.
I assume it’s just a case of using the right equipment/materials as I can see the improvement but it’s still very hazy.
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25th Apr 2020, 12:17 PM #69
You will probably need to power buff it particularly with 2k finish, ideally you should get it all sanded flat then lay a final wet coat of clear so no buffing is required as tight bends and corners are very hard to buff and easy to burn.
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25th Apr 2020, 01:05 PM #70
3 stages (if its rough) otherwise 2 stage of cutting polish last being cream buff
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25th Apr 2020, 01:12 PM #71Golden Member
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Yep, that’s what I noticed with the clear. Glassy as it hits the frame. I’ll have a go at power buffing and if I can’t restore the gloss, I’ll rebuild the booth and hit it with another coat of clear, but I’d like to avoid that if I can. Luckily the tight corners aren’t really sanded as I can’t get in to them too easily, so it’s mostly the straight sections.
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25th Apr 2020, 03:50 PM #72Golden Member
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Droog, you were right. The buffing wasn’t doing anything and I nicked the corner of the fork decals. So I’ve sanded them off the forks and now I have to rebuild the booth to lay a final coat of clear. It’s the best way to get the best result.
But annoyed, but I’d kick myself for not getting that finish back. I’m not too disappointed with the fork leg decals as I didn’t really like the fact they copied the head stem graphic, so that’s no major loss.
Booth building 2.0
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25th Apr 2020, 06:50 PM #73
Two pack clear is hard, it can be buffed but as you are working with a tubular frame you will always have a high point which becomes a high pressure area when power buffing.
Take your time don’t be too aggressive with wet sanding, once you have a smooth flat finish all over hit it with one final wet coat paying attention to get a wet coat all over without runs, then let it dry and enjoy.
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25th Apr 2020, 06:51 PM #74Golden Member
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Already done. Did a gentle final sand with 1000 grit and then 1 mist coat and 2 wet coats. Hanging for the last time and will start final assembly tomorrow.
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25th Apr 2020, 07:12 PM #75
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