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Thread: Morris truck restore project
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20th Jan 2017, 08:20 PM #1
Morris truck restore project
I hope to be doing some work on this early WW2 era Morris truck project soon. A long term thing . I have accumulated many parts and wrecks over the years . I have 6 motors .
A problem I have with the engine is the water jacket side cover on the engine block. The cover is held on with many 1/4" bolts ( maybe 6mm ) . The bolts have become somewhat fragile after 70 years and they break off easily . It may be a metric 6mm thread - Morris engines used some metric threads because William Morris purchased the French Hotchkiss factory which was making munitions during WW1 - he inherited all of the metric tooling .
I am thinking of what are the options ? Heating is possible but it may damage the cover itself .
Any advice appreciated .
I would also like to remove the head studs, another nightmare job .
cover.jpg
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21st Jan 2017, 12:37 AM #2Most Valued Member
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Do you have access to a TIG welder? If so, try heating the bolts with the TIG, shouldn't effect the water jacket cover. If you can get the bolts hot enough, they should shrink enough to be able to loosen the bolts. If any are sheared off, hopefully enough bolt is showing to be able to weld a nut to, again with the TIG, heating should crack them lose also.
Hope this helps.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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21st Jan 2017, 06:48 AM #3Philomath in training
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Don't overlook the ezy-out either as they can be surprisingly effective in some situations. The head studs should be helped with the application of some penetrating oil. The water jacket bolts will not be as obliging but at the same time I don't see any rust other than normal atmospheric stuff on the parts so they may surprise you and come out relatively easily (then again, they may surprise me and be an absolute pig as well)
Michael
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21st Jan 2017, 10:38 AM #4
OK good tips
The cover may have to be sacrificed if it comes to that. I could possibly make a new cover from brass sheet .
I do have a proper stud puller tool . If I heat the head studs above the block surface, the heat will travel down in to the stud . I am rather worried about heating the cast block in small areas because expansion fractures can happen .
BTW this is a page from my old web site . Geocities closed it down but somebody saved it ! The trucks are what I have .
CS8page
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21st Jan 2017, 09:56 PM #5Most Valued Member
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Nice article on the CS8 Mike, thanks for that, found it interesting reading.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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22nd Jan 2017, 11:07 AM #6
No luck
I tried heating and much lubricant but no luck. The side cover bolt heads just broke off . The metal in the old bolts is like plasticine it just bends and fractures so easily . Its now the ezy out method . BTW the bolt threads measure up as 5.85mm OD - there are little copper washers behind the bolt head , a sealing method I guess .
The other possible fix is to drill out and tap to the next size up which would be 5/16" or 8mm . There is enough room to do this and I feel it would be an easier fix method.
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22nd Jan 2017, 12:22 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Mike, I found this trick works well. To drill the centre out for broken studs/bolts, get a bit of scrap metal drill a hole the same size as the stud, don't drill all the way through and finish drilling with the size required to either re thread or pilot hole or for ezy out. If the broken studs are the same distance apart, make up the jig with 1 hole and another can be on slotted centres, one the size of the bolt the other the drill size required, this is then bolted/clamped over the bolts to drill them out and re tapped, keeps the drill bit on centre, a hardened guide would be even better.
Hope this helps,
KrynLast edited by KBs PensNmore; 22nd Jan 2017 at 02:19 PM. Reason: Clarification
To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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22nd Jan 2017, 12:23 PM #8Banned
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Going off comments I've seen in other forums - If the bolts are soft then get yer-self a left hand drill thats just big enough to save the threads and pick out whats left in the threads. Being a left hand drill it will likely enuf pick-up the bolt remnants and screw them out anyway.
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22nd Jan 2017, 03:14 PM #9
drill
My options would be in this order:
1. Try the LH drill and see how it goes - using a jig to align the drill bit on centre.
2. If the LH drill isn't successful then try the jig method and ezy out. If this doesn't work then.
3. Drill and tap to larger size .
Its a slow tedious job but it will turn out OK
Somebody else I read somewhere , suggested dripping acid into the pilot hole and waiting for the broken piece to be eaten away .
In any case I've got other things to do like find a set of tyres. A major PITA because they are 900 X 16 and cost a fortune , if I can find some suitable. The original tyres are RUN FLATS which I won't be using .
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22nd Jan 2017, 06:55 PM #10Most Valued Member
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I'd be cautious in dripping acid down the bolt hole, the casting itself could be eaten out.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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22nd Jan 2017, 08:53 PM #11Most Valued Member
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My ezy out is usually a piece of suitable allen key with a slight taper on the end. Drill hole slightly under the across corners size. Tap in then use a socket on the piece of allen key.
Nev.
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22nd Jan 2017, 09:25 PM #12Most Valued Member
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I try to avoid ezy outs like the plague. Have several different types and found them all to swell the bolt to the extent that they bind up even tighter. I drill them out to as close as possible, then try to get the remains out anyway that works, including heating to soften the remains, and then pick them out.
KrynLast edited by KBs PensNmore; 22nd Jan 2017 at 09:28 PM. Reason: More details
To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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22nd Jan 2017, 11:52 PM #13
Hi. I see you mentioned 5/16 or M8 as the next bolt size up. Don't overlook M7! Its pitch size is also 1mm (same as M6) and completeley clears the M6 hole. They are still in use and turn up in the darndest places: For reasons I can't fathom, Supercheap Auto stock them, both bolts and nuts, in hi tensile and zinc plated..... Honda still use them in a few places as well. Have used them quite a bit. Taps and dies are easy to get too.
Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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1st Feb 2017, 11:45 PM #14
I managed to get the heavy 3.5 litre engine out of the chassis today , I used a SCA engine crane that I bought years ago. The engine is rated at only 60 bhp but that's limited with a governor ( military convoys were slow ) . The carby is a special Solex updraft . The generator is driven by the timing chain , a duplex chain typical of British vehicles.
This vehicle has hydraulic brakes . The pipes are copper and only single flares too.
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15th Feb 2017, 09:40 PM #15
A common problem with this type of truck, the 70+ year old tyres are very difficult to remove from the split rims.
The rim halves bolt together . The tyres are RUN FLATS , there is a locking piece between the beads ( see pic ) , the idea is vehicle can be driven with no air in the tube.
Any suggestions welcome. I may have to cut into the tyre to gain access to the beads , and then grind away the wire inside the beads . What type of cutter would be suitable for cutting into old rubber ?
trak grip.jpglinedrawtire.jpg
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