By the looks of it your tailstock alignment is spot on!
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By the looks of it your tailstock alignment is spot on!
Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk
G'Day fellas,
Need some advice. I bought myself a new tailstock quill and it starts to go into the tailstock but after locating the key in the keyway on the quill it slides further about an inch then stops. I measured the quill and compared it to the old one that fits like a smooth glove and the overall diameter is good. The keyway is the same depth but .001" narrower.
What makes me think it isn't the keyway is that the quill slides in with the keyway and key engaged a good inch and the width of the keyway is the same width all the way along.
Any ideas?
Check the depth of the keyway, I bet you it ramps slightly.
For those still awake:
Today I purchased a new 3-16mm keyless chuck and Mt2 arbor. So at least the MT2 arbor is fresh.
I also ordered an Mt2 reamer. So, step 1 in this experiment will be to attempt to ream a good surface back into my tailstock quill. If this fails, I'll try reboring the MT2 inner taper. If this also fails, I'll buy a new quill.
In short, I'll try the learning stuff first and fall back to the purchasing phase if need be. Expect all the edge-of-the-seat news here as it happens!
Moz
Not sure if you have got the tailstock quill back into shape yet but you might want to consider trying this. From new out of the crate the taper on my drill chuck didn't ever feel like it locked in tight - the thought of it spinning was always in the back of my mind but hey it's a new lathe, then one day it took off and spun the drill chuck taper in the quill. I couldn't see or feel any damage but after that I was always on edge and with good reason as at times it would give a small jump, even after I had given the chuck a few taps with a plastic mallet. I thought about drilling and fixing some sort of stop that would hold the tang, but first off I tried some fine valve grinding paste and using an old MT2 to 1MT adaptor lapped the tapers together it didn't need much and took all of a minute or two. That was around 10 yrs ago - it hasn't budged since then and no need for the plastic mallet just push it in firmly by hand while giving it a slight twist.
My rotary table has a 3MT taper through the center and I always has issues with excessive run out when I used a collet chuck in the taper, I knew the chuck was ok as it had no run out in the mill so it had to be the rotary table, I tried the same trick with fine grinding paste and the run out just about completely vanished reducing from around 4-5 thou to less than 1thou.
I know there are some that will cringe at this idea but if you feel the taper is shot any way you have nothing to lose.