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Thread: Knurled nut
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26th Sep 2008, 06:24 PM #1
Knurled nut
Hi all, I have received and painted my belt covers for the hercus. But one thing I never received was 3 knurled nuts. 2 of them hold on the side cover motor belt cover, and 1 goes on the front cover on the bottom edge to help lift up the cover.
Does anyone have a sample of these with approx measurements, I could just turn up something that would fit but trying to keep the original look. I think they are made of aluminum.Cheers
Gene
Holden Hill Crash Repairs
607 North East Road
Gilles Plains South Australia 5086
(08) 8261-3979
[email protected]
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26th Sep 2008, 07:42 PM #2Product designer retired
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Hi Gene,
In tomorrow's daylight, will measure up the knurled knobs for you, if I can find them.
I have bits of restored lathe all over the house.
Ken
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26th Sep 2008, 07:46 PM #3Senior Member
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Footz,
Where did you get the belt covers from?
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26th Sep 2008, 09:12 PM #4Product designer retired
- Join Date
- Nov 2006
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- Heidelberg, Victoria
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- 79
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- 2,074
Hercus cover knobs
Gene,
Attached is a drawing of the knobs you require.
The rear belt cover knobs look authentic, not sure about the knob for the lift up cover.
The one on my lathe might be a replacement.
Perhaps a kind member will see what's on their Hercus, to verify.
Ken
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26th Sep 2008, 11:51 PM #5
FOOTZE I made 2 knurled nuts foe mine which look very similar
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26th Sep 2008, 11:55 PM #6
Nice DRAWINGS the ones I made are the same style out of mild steel and gun blackened
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27th Sep 2008, 12:00 AM #7
I think imformation such as your drawings is a step in the right direction and exchanging ideas
Cheers Bernie
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27th Sep 2008, 12:55 AM #8bitza500 Guest
Geez you draw well`
Hi Ken, what other goodies have you done drawings for as this is Great
Have you done a drawing for a tool for tighting the handle nuts without damaging them??
But any drawings you have done please just put one on the forum every once in a while as they are great
As with most Lathes you have to make something but you need to know what it looks like
So keep the drawings coming
all the best Derek bitza500
[email protected]
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27th Sep 2008, 09:47 AM #9
You the man Ken
I can see I need to go interstate and buy you a few beers. You helping out all the time
By the date on the plans bitza I think ken just draws plans as required. Ken which programme are you using for cad work? I gather ken you do this for a living?
Thanx , now where do I get info on them dam women LOLLast edited by footz; 27th Sep 2008 at 09:48 AM. Reason: edit
Cheers
Gene
Holden Hill Crash Repairs
607 North East Road
Gilles Plains South Australia 5086
(08) 8261-3979
[email protected]
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27th Sep 2008, 04:15 PM #10bitza500 Guest
Ken can draw we can make
After seeing such professional drawins and precise measurement I think Ken deserves a pat on the back as the drawings are a BRILLIANT necesity for these old Hercus"s as all the small items that have been gouged lockgrips hammer and chisel or just plain missing
The drawing he did for the Nuts to hold the slide handles on is a Brilliant piece of work as I have 1 mutilated original and 3 ground up nuts to hold the Handles on now I can remake the nuts to a DRAWING and not a mutilated piece of steel as the Majority of Lathes have normal nuts holding the handles on and as 75% on the Register are restoring that drawing is Priceless
But I will be making a proper tool to use to fit them or have you a drawing for one KEN ???
all the best Derek
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27th Sep 2008, 05:49 PM #11
Footz
Real as in actual measurements for the two side nuts knurled are
3/8 inch from the washer to the step, 3/8 inch wide to the domed top that is 1/16 inch dome.The knurl is 1/4 ich central. The hole is 3/8 inch. There are two of these.
The front knob is in two parts the front handle is 1 inch diameter, 5/16 inch to step down to 5/8 inch long by 5/8 inch. 1/8 inch threaded piece between front and back.
The inside metal is 5/8 inch by 5/8 inch with a rubber similar to old dunny seat rubbers
with the domed recess outside, the 1/8 screw passes from the rubber through a threaded centre in the metal and is screwed in by hand easily from and through the fibreglass cover. The screw therefore holds the rubber stopper in place tight.
There is no need for a tool to fit the side cover indeed a spring washer could be used with a thinner washer on the side cover is designed to fit by hand.
I say real measurement since it was made in imperial times.
All this at great personal cost as the grandfinal was on at this time.
Regards Peter,Last edited by Penpal; 27th Sep 2008 at 05:54 PM. Reason: add one size
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27th Sep 2008, 08:16 PM #12Product designer retired
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- Heidelberg, Victoria
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Tool for tightening domed nuts for hand wheels
Bitza500,
I made my own tool for tightening the domed nuts that secure the hand wheels.
It was simply a 6mm plain washer cut in half, and gripped with a pair of pliers.
I don't think a drawing is necessary.
Gene,
I use Autocad R14, does everything I want without all the padding of the later upgrades.
KenLast edited by neksmerj; 27th Sep 2008 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Type of software added
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28th Sep 2008, 08:26 AM #13
Wannabe
I got the covers from the s/h hercus man
http://www.moyles.com.au/
Penpal
LOL I hope your team won!
Thanx all I will make some out of aluminum today if I get a chance, painted the covers and other bitz looks like I am going to restore a hercus heheh. Dam it sure is looking good. Thats if lathes can look good?Last edited by footz; 28th Sep 2008 at 08:29 AM. Reason: edit
Cheers
Gene
Holden Hill Crash Repairs
607 North East Road
Gilles Plains South Australia 5086
(08) 8261-3979
[email protected]
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28th Sep 2008, 11:17 AM #14
Turning the knurled nuts you need to write your self a simple order of operations for the project.
1 Chuck the bar needed
2 Turn major od
3 Centre drill
4 Drill for 3/8 tapping drill
5 KNURL OD
6 Turn stepped dia
7 Tap 3/8 thread
8 Face stepped section to length
9 Counter drill clearace hole
10 REVERSE job in chuck
11 Face to length allowing enough material to fre turn knob radius
Cheers Bernie
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28th Sep 2008, 12:08 PM #15
As a very new metal worker I found your step by step procedure both helpful and very interesting.
One question though, on the drawing it shows an outside radius on the knob (R53.5), how do you free turn the radius?