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17th Nov 2022, 11:18 PM #1human termite
- Join Date
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- sandstone point queensland
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- 69
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- 182
southbend A 9'' crosslide nut wanted
South Bend Lathe 9" & Light 10" Cross Slide Feed Nut.any idea wher to get one of these in Australia ,thanks .......bob
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18th Nov 2022, 09:40 AM #2
Did you try here: https://australianmetalworkinghobbyi...product_id=181
Looks similar.
metric20crosslide20nut-500x500.JPG
Call them and have a chat about it.
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19th Nov 2022, 07:53 PM #3Senior Member
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- Aug 2012
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- Greenmount, W.A.
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- 70
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- 272
I make mine! Buy an ACME LH tap from the UK, and, either fabricate the whole unit from brass, or, if you are lucky, use silver solder to fill some of the thread in your "nut," and re-cut the thread. The filler rod for copper water pipes is ok. Surprisingly, you don't need much re-tapping to make it work. Be careful as some Hercus late model nuts, and I assume other manufacturers are made of very poor quality metal castings, which collapse when heated. These are a bit like the cross-slide nuts on Myford lathes - low quality zinc based die casting metals.
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20th Nov 2022, 11:15 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Greenmount, W.A.
- Age
- 70
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- 272
I was thinking.... There are some really good epoxy resins around now. Clean the nut with solvent, fill the threads with epoxy, and re-cut in the lathe with a form tool. Lock the cross slide (tighten the gibs or fit a cross slide lock - that is a worthwhile thing to have), turn the compound slide to 90 degrees and use as as the cross slide. Back in business until the new one arrives, or you have time to make one.
Also, I have read on the net, someone with a similar problem sharpening the end of the "bolt" and using it as a tap.
Here is the web address:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...g-taps-187694/
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20th Nov 2022, 03:33 PM #5australian metalworking hobbyist
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Holbrook, NSW
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 490
hercus or south bend 9 cross slide drive nut
I have this bronze one that will fit, if you don't want to make something yourself. These are made from a casting, hence the rough finish on the outside of the threaded part. The green colour is for imperial machines, the blue one shown in the previous post is for metric machines, made from cast iron.
5H725.jpghttps://australianmetalworkinghobbyist.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=800
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20th Nov 2022, 08:23 PM #6human termite
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
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- sandstone point queensland
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- 69
- Posts
- 182
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20th Nov 2022, 11:28 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- Location
- Greenmount, W.A.
- Age
- 70
- Posts
- 272
Look at the South Bend site:
https://www.southbendlathe.com/older...serial-numbers
Your machine is number: 23844;
N = 9";
C = Standard Change Gear (SCG), Screw Feed Gear, CS;
R = Regular Spindle Hole, Standard Swing;
9 = model number.
Also look at:
http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex...id=1617&tab=5;
and:
https://www.wswells.com/sn/sn_index.html
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20th Nov 2022, 11:53 PM #8human termite
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- Location
- sandstone point queensland
- Age
- 69
- Posts
- 182
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21st Nov 2022, 07:38 AM #9Diamond Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2019
- Location
- Revesby - Sydney Australia
- Age
- 56
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- 1,183
You click the link to find the price:
https://australianmetalworkinghobbyi...product_id=800
(Bronze imperial $64)
https://australianmetalworkinghobbyi...product_id=976
(Cast Iron imperial $59)
Split nut? You mean the half nut (clasp nut?) that drives the saddle?
https://australianmetalworkinghobbyi...earch=half+nut
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