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Thread: Milling on the lathe
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16th Nov 2021, 10:00 PM #1Senior Member
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Milling on the lathe
So I had a small part to make for a mate and it needed 16 flats milled on it as well as a slot and pin hole so I thought that I would finally get to use my milling attachment, I machined the part up with a 1/2" spigot on the back to hold it in the collet chuck on the little dividing head, first problem being is the dividing head is 24 teeth and obviously 16 isn't straight into 24 so I had to do half of the flats and slip it 22.5 degrees to finish that, then I drilled the pin hole so used a 3c collet for the drill bit then I needed to slot it, that was a major pain, I had to use 2 different size cutters to get the depth as it needed to have a slot started to get the next cutter through to finish size due to the size of the side and face cutters I have (must look for more of those), so all in all it would would have been much easier to go around the corner and use the mill at my brothers to do the job in about an eighth of the time, anyway at least I had a play with my attachments, no point having them if they don't get used I guess.
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16th Nov 2021, 10:26 PM #2
Pretty interesting, nice job. Steve.
I've used my milling attachment only once and it did the job. But after that I vowed to get myself a mill.
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17th Nov 2021, 07:20 AM #3Golden Member
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17th Nov 2021, 04:05 PM #4Most Valued Member
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The reverse setup to Steve's is having the workpiece in the lathe chuck and the milling cutter in a motor mounted to the toolpost. This allows you do a turning & milling job in one setup (e.g. turning a shaft to diameter, then milling a keyway slot in it). Or milling the slot in a bolt action pen barrel.
Chris
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17th Nov 2021, 09:26 PM #5Senior Member
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17th Nov 2021, 09:59 PM #6Most Valued Member
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30th Nov 2021, 10:23 PM #7Senior Member
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I decided to make some spindle draw bolts for the arbor's I have, I cheated on turning the bolts by doing them at work but I decided to use the milling attachment again for cutting the flats, it is quite useful for doing that task, at least the bolt can go in lengthways and you can cut through it reasonably quickly, they are 5/8 BS hexagonal's, the micro stop is a fantastic attachment used in conjunction with the milling attachment as well.
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2nd Dec 2021, 10:05 AM #8.
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2nd Dec 2021, 10:51 AM #9Most Valued Member
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25th Feb 2022, 09:29 PM #10Diamond Member
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Got a milling cutter
Does this cutter make my chuck look small?
IMG_2652.jpg
(it is a Walter SpeedMax end mill. Shank is 1 1/4" diameter HSS.
Cutting flutes are about 1 1/2" diameter, Carbide.
Got a few from a guy who resells deceased estate miscellany. Some are even larger!)
Now all I need is a milling clamping attachment.
And a much bigger motor.
And a chain drive to replace the flat belts.
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26th Feb 2022, 12:40 AM #11
And a few buckets of rigidity for the lathe. A lathe with a milling adaptor may do a reasonable job of very light milling, but they generally can't handle loads that that that style bit could impose.
Looking at that cutter, the work needs to be between the cutter and the operator to set it up so that the induced forces in the work are seating the carriage etc onto the ways, rather than trying to levitate them off the ways and leave them flapping in the air. If set up this way, you are then effectively milling blind.
I have a lot of respect for the Southbend/Hercus/Sheraton 9 inch lathes, but they don't match up to a decent sized knee mill when it comes to milling.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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26th Feb 2022, 09:31 AM #12Diamond Member
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Maybe a solid concrete slab, to replace the bed.
Looking at that cutter, the work needs to be between the cutter and the operator
On the plus side, the cutting edges are sharp.
On the minus, they would rub blunt at my Hercus's 729RPM max?
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27th Feb 2022, 09:10 PM #13Golden Member
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Hey Steve, Your last image in Post #1, are you using 3c collets? and so how long is that draw tube you are using in the indexing head?
does the same draw tube suit the hercus dividing head?
Cheers
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28th Feb 2022, 08:18 PM #14Senior Member
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Hi Steve
The draw tube is 3.600" long and it is .600" too long for the dividing head when it is screwed all the way in, I am going to make a spacer that is at least .750" wide to use the tube in the dividing head on the mill as that is the difference between the two dividing heads. I think it is a different length again to what is used in the mill's vertical head as well.
I will look at making an ejection tool like Bob has made for his in the near future.
I was actually using the vice on the milling attachment the other day for milling down the handles for the rotary tables, it isn't the quickest way to do it but at least it had power feed.
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28th Feb 2022, 08:55 PM #15Golden Member
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Thanks appreciate that.
Thats quite a lot shorter than what the vertical head draw tube needs. I assume Hercus must have sold one suited for each attachment.
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