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Thread: Tailstock mod for MT2 tang?
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6th Jun 2021, 07:04 PM #1Diamond Member
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Tailstock mod for MT2 tang?
After some frustration using a chuck in the tailstock last week (13/64" drill, then 1/4WW tap),
I have decided to try pinning the tailstock so that a tanged MT2 arbor will lock in place.
(Yes, I know that;
1) a good taper should lock in place via friction, and
2) for the smallish drills that a Hercus is capable of drilling,
the MT2's friction should be sufficient.
My arbor is new, and the taper in the sleeve is OK – I reamed and lapped it a few months ago.
However, unless I use a mallet to lock the taper each time, it just doesn't seem workable to me?)
Anyway, assuming that someone else has already done this on their tailstock sleeve,
I don't suppose you have any dimensions?
e.g.: How far in from the back? Pin or grub screw? Diameter?
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6th Jun 2021, 07:07 PM #2Most Valued Member
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Hmmm, even my little morse taper one tools grip fine on the taper alone. Before you go to hard down this road have the blued the taper and checked with three or four known good tapers?
Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
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6th Jun 2021, 07:32 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Use a dog or clamp.
Fix around tool rest on compound.
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6th Jun 2021, 07:51 PM #4Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I don't have any slippage probs with the MT2's on my Hercus
A moderate tap home with a wooden mallet is usually enough.
The MTs I have trouble with are the 13.5 - 14mm MT1 bits in my MT1-MT2 adapter - Im pretty sure its my cheap adapter at fault.
I've even used a MT3F to MT2M adapter with smaller MT3 bits without probs.
The middle gizmo in this lot is my home made drill dog that I have used maybe half a dozen times on MT1 bits.
Trigrinderhandles.jpg
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7th Jun 2021, 09:50 PM #5
Some of us clearly have problems with MT2 slipping - I'll come out and say I'm one of them, despite having reamers and made laps to make my MT taper s perfect...
I pulled out the tailstock mandrel of both my lathes and measured where the tangs will be when fully inserted. I then drilled a horizontal hole in the side of both of them and threaded it M8. Then found a short Allen key grub screw that protruded into the hole the right amount and screwed it in the hole so it would prevent the tang from turning and Loktited it in. Some of my drill tangs vary in thickness, so I chose the thickest to determine the protrusion of the screw. Had no problems since and the MT sockets have stayed 'nice'.
As an aside: I also use an MT2 ER collet holder in the tailstock on occasions. It has a screw-in tang. I have to remember to screw that in - or I have to dismantle the tailstock to get it out again..... doh....Cheers, Joe
retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....
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