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11th May 2021, 09:33 AM #16Member
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Damn, i don't really have a scrapyard for steel near me, a couple of car wrecking yards, a bit of a drive away though.
I see stuff like this on ebay which should be perfect right ?
Wondering what "square" dimensions should i get for use with my southbend 9 inch lathe. ( I don't want to mess around with shims so much, especially when starting out )
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18455667....c101198.m1985
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11th May 2021, 12:22 PM #17Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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If you want to get smaller pieces of HSS, ie 100 mm will get you around 2 - 4 working bits depending on how you hold it, then try McJing
https://mcjing.com.au/metalturning-a...ing-hobby.html
Look towards the bottom of that page and you will see the HSS links.
I mainly have used 6x6 mm, and some 8 x 8 mm, and 10 x 10mm for short boring bars on my Hercus.
These days I usually use Crobalt diamond profile tips in a Diamond tool holder, and cobalt tipped parting blades, all from Eccentric Engineering (EE).
They're not cheap but the produce a super finish, plus sharpening is a doddle with the EE bit holder.
I also use carbide tips when I want to move things along, eg the SS flanges, pulleys and collars on this machine were made with carbide and korloy
I mainly used carbide to hog things out and face-off work hardened SS faces, but it still produces a surprisingly good finish.
Complete3.JPG
belt1.JPG
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11th May 2021, 04:16 PM #18Member
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wow BobL they look amazing.
I saw a video where carbide tools need more horsepower to make the tool work well ? and HSS takes a bit of effort to get them shaped, and then sharp, but are better for beginners and can be re used like a pencil being resharpened.
I clicked the link.
I have one like this, i think this is for parting and cutting off.
https://mcjing.com.au/taper-shape-parting-tool.html
and this holder as well, but i'll need to measure the hole it has for the size of HSS bits it fits.
https://mcjing.com.au/square-bit-hol...ning-tool.html
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11th May 2021, 05:48 PM #19
Hi Mathu, Guys,
Its very easy to run off with the idea that you have to have every tool in the book in order to use your new lathe. Spend some time examining it and study its behaviour ! There is no point in rushing down the parting rabbit hole if the lathe is not adjusted properly. Parting is not simply cutting a groove in a piece of bar it takes a fair bit of learning/understanding to do successfully every time. I see more tales of woe about parting off than any thing else !
Having said all that, the rules are... Sharp tool bits, accurately on centre height, the right speeds and feeds for the material you are going to cut, and this is after you have adjusted the lathe properly !
I'm sure that those with more experience will add their advice in order to assist you.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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11th May 2021, 06:24 PM #20Member
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11th May 2021, 06:27 PM #21Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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While they do look good, especially against the wood, in terms of finish I would call them about average especially compared to what some members on this forum can produce. I used to balk at turning stainless but now I have the hang of it I'm quite liking it, although a pro can often produce a finish that needs no sanding. I'm not quote at that stage yet.
I saw a video where carbide tools need more horsepower to make the tool work well ?
Based on he nominal 1.5A current drawn by the motor while peeling of a 25 thou (0.63mm) cut using carbide, this makes it a 360W (0.5 HP) activity. However by the time power factor etc is included the real motor HP being generated to make this cut is closer to 270W (~1/3HP) so given the motor is 1HP there's plenty of reserve there. I should add I don't usually do more than 1mm cuts and do these at slow feed
and HSS takes a bit of effort to get them shaped, and then sharp, but are better for beginners and can be re used like a pencil being resharpened.
However I don't always just listen to what I'm told and have for a couple of years been touching up some carbide bits on a diamond wheel. If the carbide tip chips then it's a long slow grinder to remove it so I don't bother but if the carbide has gone a tad dull (its easy to identify this because it becomes harder and harder to even start making a fine cut) a couple of touches on a diamond wheel does wonders in reviving these bits. I even do thing on brand new tips. The trade off is if a finer edge is used then the risk of edge chipping is increased - I've just learned how to work with these finer edges ie don't use them to table dust where the tip goes rapidly in and out of a cut.
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11th May 2021, 08:23 PM #22Member
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I'll go and see what motor i have on the lathe now and that will give me a rough ballpark of where i stand |
Damn, no markings or labels on the motor hmm.
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11th May 2021, 08:43 PM #23Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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It looks like an after market motor - washing machine motor perhaps. I could be wrong.
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12th May 2021, 12:46 AM #24Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th May 2021, 02:12 AM #25Member
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Thank you
I just wanted to know so it would help knowing what depth of cut and RPM's and stuff to set things up for when cutting into steel
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12th May 2021, 08:42 AM #26Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Was looking at pics of your lathe in your first thread.
I'm not 100% sure this is the pulley system is original and it looks like it has been substantially modified to enable the motor to be tucked into the cabinet.
The longish belt between the two 4 step pulleys could be a contributing source to your problems.
Screen Shot 2021-05-12 at 5.34.43 am.png
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14th May 2021, 02:08 PM #27Member
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Hi guys sorry i haven't replied yet, been busy working on my roommated trailer camper, i'm welding up all of it
I'm thinking that i haven't used a tail stock for support that wasn't helping. So i'll be using that next time
Also i got another piece of steel, the guy called it bright bar and he read the description and it said it was cold rolled so i think it will be much better for machining The original piece i had to use was hot rolled based upon the mill scale and the look of it.
going by this video here i've been watching the lathe series she has on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBVo...el=Blondihacks
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17th May 2021, 01:12 AM #28Member
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I was in the middle of making a High Speed Steel tool based upon this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU
and then the bench grinder started having smoke pour out of it :'(
so the capacitor, stator or switch have shorted and let out a whole bunch of smoke.
hmm, wonder if i should fix it, or buy a new one :/
its a GMC 2/3HP unit and looks to be from the 1980's
it looks like this one
gmc bench grinder.jpg
So after the smoke appeared, I went to using the big chunky steel tool with the carbide bit on the tip.
But this time i had a live spindle end in the tailstock which improved rigidity. But still gettting the marks :/
I think it's the lack of decent tools.
I tried a couple of different speeds, no real change.
I also did the passes by hand, i went so slow it took me about a full minute or two to travel 100mm ( 10cm ) ( 3 and a bit inches ), just to make sure i wasn't skipping over any part of the steel.
so, i need to get another too sorted, preferably HSS that will give a nice finish to see if it's the tool or something else.
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17th May 2021, 05:07 AM #29
Hi Mathu, Guys,
You can get a new grinder quite cheaply that will be quite adequate for grinding HSS tool bits, so if the windings of that grinder look in the slightest burnt, salvage what ever parts and get rid. Wheels, nuts and wheel plates are the things to keep though other parts might be useful.
I picked up an 8" inch grinder that was being thrown out, the windings were OK so I refurbished it and bought new wheels, made some replacement parts. Its been sat under the bench unused since ! I keep threatening to get it out and put it on the bench, but I have a very good 6" grinder that I've made tables and jigs for that I use daily to sharpen various tools including lathe tools.
Here is a link to the refurbishment thread:
https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t187...Grinder+BaronJBest Regards:
Baron J.
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17th May 2021, 10:35 PM #30
more
This guy explains HSS free hand grinding well I think
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkTFjECcBKw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ho6TtBQbpjU
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