Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 95
  1. #16
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Damn, i don't really have a scrapyard for steel near me, a couple of car wrecking yards, a bit of a drive away though.


    I see stuff like this on ebay which should be perfect right ?

    Wondering what "square" dimensions should i get for use with my southbend 9 inch lathe. ( I don't want to mess around with shims so much, especially when starting out )

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18455667....c101198.m1985

  2. #17
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    If you want to get smaller pieces of HSS, ie 100 mm will get you around 2 - 4 working bits depending on how you hold it, then try McJing
    https://mcjing.com.au/metalturning-a...ing-hobby.html
    Look towards the bottom of that page and you will see the HSS links.

    I mainly have used 6x6 mm, and some 8 x 8 mm, and 10 x 10mm for short boring bars on my Hercus.

    These days I usually use Crobalt diamond profile tips in a Diamond tool holder, and cobalt tipped parting blades, all from Eccentric Engineering (EE).
    They're not cheap but the produce a super finish, plus sharpening is a doddle with the EE bit holder.
    I also use carbide tips when I want to move things along, eg the SS flanges, pulleys and collars on this machine were made with carbide and korloy
    I mainly used carbide to hog things out and face-off work hardened SS faces, but it still produces a surprisingly good finish.
    Complete3.JPG
    belt1.JPG

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    wow BobL they look amazing.

    I saw a video where carbide tools need more horsepower to make the tool work well ? and HSS takes a bit of effort to get them shaped, and then sharp, but are better for beginners and can be re used like a pencil being resharpened.


    I clicked the link.

    I have one like this, i think this is for parting and cutting off.
    https://mcjing.com.au/taper-shape-parting-tool.html



    and this holder as well, but i'll need to measure the hole it has for the size of HSS bits it fits.

    https://mcjing.com.au/square-bit-hol...ning-tool.html


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Mathu, Guys,

    Its very easy to run off with the idea that you have to have every tool in the book in order to use your new lathe. Spend some time examining it and study its behaviour ! There is no point in rushing down the parting rabbit hole if the lathe is not adjusted properly. Parting is not simply cutting a groove in a piece of bar it takes a fair bit of learning/understanding to do successfully every time. I see more tales of woe about parting off than any thing else !

    Having said all that, the rules are... Sharp tool bits, accurately on centre height, the right speeds and feeds for the material you are going to cut, and this is after you have adjusted the lathe properly !

    I'm sure that those with more experience will add their advice in order to assist you.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Mathu, Guys,

    Its very easy to run off with the idea that you have to have every tool in the book in order to use your new lathe. Spend some time examining it and study its behaviour ! There is no point in rushing down the parting rabbit hole if the lathe is not adjusted properly. Parting is not simply cutting a groove in a piece of bar it takes a fair bit of learning/understanding to do successfully every time. I see more tales of woe about parting off than any thing else !

    Having said all that, the rules are... Sharp tool bits, accurately on centre height, the right speeds and feeds for the material you are going to cut, and this is after you have adjusted the lathe properly !

    I'm sure that those with more experience will add their advice in order to assist you.
    Thank you. It's greatly appreciated.





    P.S

    Any chance of someone knowing where to go to learn how to setup my Southbend 9 " ?

  6. #21
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mathuisella View Post
    wow BobL they look amazing.
    While they do look good, especially against the wood, in terms of finish I would call them about average especially compared to what some members on this forum can produce. I used to balk at turning stainless but now I have the hang of it I'm quite liking it, although a pro can often produce a finish that needs no sanding. I'm not quote at that stage yet.

    I saw a video where carbide tools need more horsepower to make the tool work well ?
    That's what I used to believe as well. However, my Hercus doesn't seem to have much of a problem using carbides although I did swap the motor from 1/2 to 1HP so it has more grunt.

    Based on he nominal 1.5A current drawn by the motor while peeling of a 25 thou (0.63mm) cut using carbide, this makes it a 360W (0.5 HP) activity. However by the time power factor etc is included the real motor HP being generated to make this cut is closer to 270W (~1/3HP) so given the motor is 1HP there's plenty of reserve there. I should add I don't usually do more than 1mm cuts and do these at slow feed

    and HSS takes a bit of effort to get them shaped, and then sharp, but are better for beginners and can be re used like a pencil being resharpened.
    Correct it is better to learn on HSS. I think you get a better feel for what is going on and what the lathe can and can't do.

    However I don't always just listen to what I'm told and have for a couple of years been touching up some carbide bits on a diamond wheel. If the carbide tip chips then it's a long slow grinder to remove it so I don't bother but if the carbide has gone a tad dull (its easy to identify this because it becomes harder and harder to even start making a fine cut) a couple of touches on a diamond wheel does wonders in reviving these bits. I even do thing on brand new tips. The trade off is if a finer edge is used then the risk of edge chipping is increased - I've just learned how to work with these finer edges ie don't use them to table dust where the tip goes rapidly in and out of a cut.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    I'll go and see what motor i have on the lathe now and that will give me a rough ballpark of where i stand |



    Damn, no markings or labels on the motor hmm.

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    It looks like an after market motor - washing machine motor perhaps. I could be wrong.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    It looks like an after market motor - washing machine motor perhaps. I could be wrong.
    Hi Mathu, Guys,

    I agree with Bob ! It could be any of a hundred or more 1/3, 1/2, 3/4 or 1 Hp motors. If you have access to a "Kilowatt meter or AC ammeter, that would give you some idea. Otherwise I wouldn't worry about it too much, your not at that stage by a long way.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Thank you

    I just wanted to know so it would help knowing what depth of cut and RPM's and stuff to set things up for when cutting into steel

  11. #26
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Was looking at pics of your lathe in your first thread.

    I'm not 100% sure this is the pulley system is original and it looks like it has been substantially modified to enable the motor to be tucked into the cabinet.
    The longish belt between the two 4 step pulleys could be a contributing source to your problems.


    Screen Shot 2021-05-12 at 5.34.43 am.png

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    Hi guys sorry i haven't replied yet, been busy working on my roommated trailer camper, i'm welding up all of it

    I'm thinking that i haven't used a tail stock for support that wasn't helping. So i'll be using that next time

    Also i got another piece of steel, the guy called it bright bar and he read the description and it said it was cold rolled so i think it will be much better for machining The original piece i had to use was hot rolled based upon the mill scale and the look of it.


    going by this video here i've been watching the lathe series she has on youtube

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBVo...el=Blondihacks

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2021
    Location
    australia
    Posts
    50

    Default

    I was in the middle of making a High Speed Steel tool based upon this video

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=__A2xtLF0AU

    and then the bench grinder started having smoke pour out of it :'(

    so the capacitor, stator or switch have shorted and let out a whole bunch of smoke.

    hmm, wonder if i should fix it, or buy a new one :/

    its a GMC 2/3HP unit and looks to be from the 1980's

    it looks like this one

    gmc bench grinder.jpg



    So after the smoke appeared, I went to using the big chunky steel tool with the carbide bit on the tip.

    But this time i had a live spindle end in the tailstock which improved rigidity. But still gettting the marks :/

    I think it's the lack of decent tools.

    I tried a couple of different speeds, no real change.

    I also did the passes by hand, i went so slow it took me about a full minute or two to travel 100mm ( 10cm ) ( 3 and a bit inches ), just to make sure i wasn't skipping over any part of the steel.

    so, i need to get another too sorted, preferably HSS that will give a nice finish to see if it's the tool or something else.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Mathu, Guys,

    You can get a new grinder quite cheaply that will be quite adequate for grinding HSS tool bits, so if the windings of that grinder look in the slightest burnt, salvage what ever parts and get rid. Wheels, nuts and wheel plates are the things to keep though other parts might be useful.

    I picked up an 8" inch grinder that was being thrown out, the windings were OK so I refurbished it and bought new wheels, made some replacement parts. Its been sat under the bench unused since ! I keep threatening to get it out and put it on the bench, but I have a very good 6" grinder that I've made tables and jigs for that I use daily to sharpen various tools including lathe tools.

    Here is a link to the refurbishment thread:

    https://metalworkforums.com/f65/t187...Grinder+BaronJ
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    near Warragul, Victoria
    Posts
    3,718

    Default more


Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. hooray...finished
    By eskimo in forum GENERAL DISCUSSION / OFF TOPIC
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 5th Nov 2017, 09:48 AM
  2. Repairs finished after a bad day.
    By Mike4 in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12th Jul 2017, 09:56 AM
  3. Advice, tips re. removing duragal for a weld?
    By DoctorWu in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 19th Mar 2015, 10:50 PM
  4. Need advice making a small part
    By simonl in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 27th Nov 2013, 12:41 PM
  5. Finally Finished My 260
    By kwijibo99 in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 16th Apr 2010, 01:53 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •