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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    9

    Default Metric Theading Hercus A

    Sure it's been covered and done to death, just can't find it.

    I have ALL the gears, as well as the handbook, but it STILL does my head in.

    Anyone here can point be to the relevant threads please?

    Thank you...

    Ian

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,598

    Default

    We need a little more information to be able to help.

    Do you have a Hercus 9 inch or "260"?

    Does your lathe have a metric or imperial leadscrew?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    We need a little more information to be able to help.

    Do you have a Hercus 9 inch or "260"?

    Does your lathe have a metric or imperial leadscrew?
    Whoops... sorry! 9 Inch with the quick change gearbox. Imperial leadscrew.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Bee View Post
    Whoops... sorry! 9 Inch with the quick change gearbox. Imperial leadscrew.
    What is confusing me, is the actual PLACEMENT of the 127 - 100 compound gear. A drawing or photograph would perhaps help.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    56
    Posts
    5,783

    Default

    Hercus.JPG
    From the Hercus text book of turning

    Michael

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    92

    Default

    I keep a copy of this handy by my lathe for this reason, the 2nd last page is what you need. (info for south bend but the same applies)

    Cheers,
    ratters

    model-a-gears.pdf

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    126

    Default

    The 127/100 gears replace the 80 tooth idler, the 127 is driven from the stud gear and the 100 drives the 56 tooth gear on the gearbox, the 56 needs to be spaced out to allow contact with the 100, just need to swap the gears over on the gearbox input shaft, as in remove the 40 and 56 and reverse them, are the 127/100 already on a bush with a key? if not then they will need a keyed bush to rotate together to make the compound gearing work.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    62
    Posts
    4,636

    Default

    Key would only be required if the compound gears are seperate, if the gears are bushed together. to form a non seperatable compound no key is required

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer77 View Post
    The 127/100 gears replace the 80 tooth idler, the 127 is driven from the stud gear and the 100 drives the 56 tooth gear on the gearbox, the 56 needs to be spaced out to allow contact with the 100, just need to swap the gears over on the gearbox input shaft, as in remove the 40 and 56 and reverse them, are the 127/100 already on a bush with a key? if not then they will need a keyed bush to rotate together to make the compound gearing work.
    Excellent! Thank you! My 127 and 100 are indeed separate. I will look into the bush arrangement,

    this now all makes sense... thank you!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Holbrook, NSW
    Age
    71
    Posts
    423

    Default 100/127

    100-127-gear.jpgThis is how my ones are put together if that will help.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by allterrain50 View Post
    100-127-gear.jpgThis is how my ones are put together if that will help.
    Found the bushing, and have joined them! Now to cut some metric threads!

    Thank you to all...

    Ian.

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