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  1. #1
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    Default Milling arbor Hercus 260

    Anyone have info or drawings for the milling arbor for the 260 similar to the photo below? I'd like to make it so I can mill a radius into aluminium.


    milling arbor Hercus 260.jpg

  2. #2
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    Ebay item 303485071539

    Different diameters and tapers available.

  3. #3
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    From the ebay photos I can't tell if it has a centre for the tailstock. I'm not familiar with these types of set ups.

    Have you used this on your Hercus? Are there more fittings I'll need that isn't immediately apparent to me?

  4. #4
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    Have you considered making your own, that way you can have it or the as long or as short as needed.
    You could make it to the taper of your spindle and secure by drawbar through spindle, or if you have a collet chuck just machine arbor to suit your largest collet.
    Looking at what is available through that page it appears that the arbor diameter is16 mm bit small for milling cutters.

  5. #5
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    You'll need MT4 for the 260. There are some here. (16mm - 1-1/4")

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Picko View Post
    You'll need MT4 for the 260.
    Is that because the drive would be more positive than if the MT2 bung is used?

  7. #7
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    If you mean an MT4 to MT2 adapter sleeve, you could do that. I think the drive and accuracy could both be affected so it would be better to go the direct route if you could.

  8. #8
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    Being the owner of a Hercus milling attachment, I'd be surprised if it had the rigidity to cope with the loads those two cutters would impose on the workpiece.
    Chris

  9. #9
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    Yeah, good point Chris.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Have you considered making your own, that way you can have it or the as long or as short as needed.
    You could make it to the taper of your spindle and secure by drawbar through spindle, or if you have a collet chuck just machine arbor to suit your largest collet.
    Looking at what is available through that page it appears that the arbor diameter is16 mm bit small for milling cutters.
    Hi Pipeclay,

    I was hoping to make it but I wondered if anyone had more details for such an arbor. So looking at the photo it appears the arbor is secured in the tailstock with a centre. I assume it's a revolving centre. So I'd need to single point the thread on the main shaft with a collar nut to capture the cutting blade.

    Any drawings of an example that is similar for the type of setup I'd need would be good to see, if anyone has such a drawing or sketch. I'm just not sure exactly how I should approach this.

    I made a slitting saw arbor a few months ago as I needed to make some small brass screws for a fishing reel. It turned out really good and enabled me to make the slits in the screw heads.

    Here's the saw arbor I made below.

    20200529_140813.jpg20200529_143444.jpg20200529_145219.jpg

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Being the owner of a Hercus milling attachment, I'd be surprised if it had the rigidity to cope with the loads those two cutters would impose on the workpiece.
    I'd be surprised too, but I'll be using it for aluminium and although I plan on purchasing a milling machine in the future, in the interim, I'd like to try making something that will allow me to mill out a radius to make a reel foot.

  12. #12
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    Making the arbor should not be a problem, your main issues will be in my opinion,
    1, how will you drive it?
    2, what diameter material do I need?
    3, how long do I need it?
    4, what bore are my milling cutters?
    5, do I need more than one arbor?
    6, do all my cutters use the same size key?
    7, how many different sized spacers do I need?
    8,how will I cut the keyway in my spacers?
    9,how long do I need the keyway in my arbor?
    10, what thread will I use for the arbor and retaining nut?
    11, what material will I use?

  13. #13
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    Here's the thing I want to make

    Reel Foot.png

    I can make the slope and the rest but I will need to cut the radius "B"

  14. #14
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    Hi Boris, Guys,

    If I were doing that radius by milling on the lathe, I would use a 0.350 ball end milling cutter held in a collet chuck in the spindle. You will need to make a packing to get the centre height on the cross slide and take gentle cuts using the cross slide to traverse the work. Don't be tempted to cut in both directions, feed the work into the cutter with the cross slide moving away from you. Wind the work back before taking another cut.

    I've found milling on a lathe to be a right royal pain in the butt !

    PS. A vertical slide doesn't help, it reduces rigidity enormously. The more solid you can hold the work piece the better.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Boris, Guys,

    If I were doing that radius by milling on the lathe, I would use a 0.350 ball end milling cutter held in a collet chuck in the spindle. You will need to make a packing to get the centre height on the cross slide and take gentle cuts using the cross slide to traverse the work. Don't be tempted to cut in both directions, feed the work into the cutter with the cross slide moving away from you. Wind the work back before taking another cut.

    I've found milling on a lathe to be a right royal pain in the butt !

    PS. A vertical slide doesn't help, it reduces rigidity enormously. The more solid you can hold the work piece the better.

    Thanks for your input, BaronJ. I have to admit that crossed my mind too but since in the near future I'll be trying to also make another foot with a second radius also, I thought it might be good to "kill two birds....." See the diagram below showing the second radius. BTW the other materials I'll be looking to use is brass and nickel silver.

    reel foot 2.jpg


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