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  1. #1
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    Default hercus cross slide binding

    I've had some trouble adjusting the cross slide on my hercus. If I adjust it so there's minimal play in the normal operating range I can't slide it right off the back because it binds at the back. I think the machine has seen a decent amount of use so not unexpected. I assume either the saddle or slide dovetails are out of parallel. To correct this problem, would I have to grind or scrape the dovetail surfaces? Has anyone tried to fix this issue? I'd actually like to learn how to scrape but I would have to invest quite a bit to get the required tools.

  2. #2
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    You can scrape them on a pretty low budget, to get it good enough you can just braze a chunk of carbide onto a springy handle and get cracking. you need some kind of flat to check the surface then some dowel pins and a mic to get the back side parallel to the front. but dont go for the whole length just knock the highspots off each end to get the travel back.

  3. #3
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    What type of play are you trying to eliminate?
    Why if you have adjusted it through its normal operating range do you then want to remove the nut from the leadscrew and slide it off?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    What type of play are you trying to eliminate?
    Why if you have adjusted it through its normal operating range do you then want to remove the nut from the leadscrew and slide it off?
    Not sure what to call it but play when I grab each end of the cross slide and rotate in the plane of the bed. If I adjust it so it travels the whole length then I can rotate is slightly when slides is positioned closer to the operator. It would be nice to slide off to clean without adjusting gibbs, or not have it tighten up as the slide moves to the other end.

  5. #5
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    How easy is the cross slide to wind through its normal range of travel, can it be moved using thumb and index finger?
    Where have you got the cross slide positioned whilst adjusting the gib?
    It seems unusual to have excessive wear in the dovetail as it just runs back and forth on the dovetail of the saddle, any real wear in these can be adjusted by the gib.
    Last edited by pipeclay; 25th May 2020 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Correct name

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    How easy is the compound to wind through its normal range of travel, can it be moved using thumb and index finger?
    Where have you got the compound positioned whilst adjusting the gib?
    It seems unusual to have excessive wear in the dovetail as it just runs back and forth on the dovetail of the saddle, any real wear in these can be adjusted by the gib.
    The binding is in the cross-slide. To adjust gibbs in the cross-slide I remove the compound. I need to get some gauge pins or dowel pins so I can make some measurement on the saddle.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Sorry corrected the wording in my answer.
    There is no need to remove the compound from the cross slide to adjust the gib unless that what you want to do.
    Before you go to the trouble of getting gauge pins or the like for measuring what ever you plan to measure, get hold of some bearing blue or similar and check the fit against the none gib dovetail, if it blues along its face and the cross slide gib I would say it's okay.
    Can you wind the cross slide with two fingers after you adjust the gib, and where is the cross slide in relation to the saddle when you adjust the gib?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Sorry corrected the wording in my answer.
    There is no need to remove the compound from the cross slide to adjust the gib unless that what you want to do.
    Before you go to the trouble of getting gauge pins or the like for measuring what ever you plan to measure, get hold of some bearing blue or similar and check the fit against the none gib dovetail, if it blues along its face and the cross slide gib I would say it's okay.
    Can you wind the cross slide with two fingers after you adjust the gib, and where is the cross slide in relation to the saddle when you adjust the gib?
    I adjusted the gib with the cross-slide end lined up with the front saddle end, approximately (no over hang) then I moved it back to see how snug it was. With the initial setting I couldn't slide the cross-slide off the back at all. I then loosened the back gib screws a bit to get a bit more travel without introducing too much sideways play. At that setting it seemed ok, but then I had to angle the compound for a cut which required the cross-slide to go towards the back more and it seemed a bit tight back there. This got me thinking about whether I should try fix it.

    I can wind the cross-slide with two fingers for most of the travel region of interest.
    Can suggest a bearing blue product to try?

  9. #9
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    Prussian Blue, bearing suppliers/ spare car parts suppliers engineers suppliers.

  10. #10
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    Have you attempted to adjust the gib with the cross slide leadscrew engaged in the cross slide nut?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Have you attempted to adjust the gib with the cross slide leadscrew engaged in the cross slide nut?
    No, only because I could get a better feel for the fit by sliding by hand. Any reason to do it with the screw & nut?

  12. #12
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    Yes, any misalignment or wear may cause the cross slide to bind, but if doing it your way works doesn't matter.
    If you set the gib without the nut in the cross slide how do you then put the nut in and engage it with the screw.
    Generally setting the gib with screw and nut attached would take about 5/8 mins, doing the lock nuts may take longer.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Yes, any misalignment or wear may cause the cross slide to bind, but if doing it your way works doesn't matter.
    If you set the gib without the nut in the cross slide how do you then put the nut in and engage it with the screw.
    Generally setting the gib with screw and nut attached would take about 5/8 mins, doing the lock nuts may take longer.
    I have to ensure that I can slide the cross slide back just enough to put the nut back in. Which is part of the initial problem. I get your point about leaving the nut in. Seems to take me ages to adjust the screws & locking nuts. Find it hard to tighten the nuts without changing the screws.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by monchochos View Post
    Find it hard to tighten the nuts without changing the screws.
    One of my part complete projects is making longer lock nuts to use over longer grub screws to clear the compound to solve exactly that problem.

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