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Thread: A new stand for my Hercus lathe
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27th May 2020, 05:59 PM #16Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I've learned that several times and usually added HD adjustable feet.
The white is HDPE (that's for sliding the stand round) the black is a thin layer of neoprene rubber.
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29th May 2020, 12:11 PM #17Senior Member
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That is a nice idea Bob, I think once the lathe is up and running I will make up some leveling feet.
In the meantime I have knocked up a stand for the parts washer, just waiting on a pump to arrive so I can finish it off. Excited as I am to put it back together it is a golden opportunity to give everything a good clean.
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31st May 2020, 02:08 AM #18
Hi Ratters, Guys,
I would have used an old front loading washing machine pump ! I bet you could pick one up from the scrap yard for pennies, including the hoses !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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31st May 2020, 10:22 AM #19Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I have scavenged couple of these washing machine pumps from council verge side pick ups. I used one on them of the lube coolant setup on my bandsaw.
It's serious overkill in terms of flow rate but I included a 20mm by-pass loop the allows the pump to flow at near to full rate aerating the lube to stop it growing bugs.
The pump is inside the smaller of the the PVC containers - the one with the perforated end cap. The larger one is the lube fluid reservoir.
Pump.jpg
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31st May 2020, 06:20 PM #20
Hi Bob, Guys,
I thought I recognised that picture ! I have recollections of discussing it at the time. As you mention, lots of flow but not too much pressure.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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31st May 2020, 07:05 PM #21Senior Member
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I do have a few various pumps kicking around but really wasn't confident about using them with something flammable like kerosene or diesel so I just bought a 12v diesel transfer pump for some peace of mind.
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17th Jul 2020, 04:03 PM #22Senior Member
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Getting closer now. The parts washer is up and running and the stand is pretty much done too. As I install the lathe I will probably re-do the switch wiring because mine is still the original setup which has you reaching directly over the chuck! Also need to drill some holes in the bottom of the legs to accept a bracket in future to fit wheels for moving it around.
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20th Jul 2020, 10:47 AM #23Senior Member
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Guys I have run into a bit of an issue here and would appreciate some advice.
Not sure why I didn't pick up on this before but the tailstock end of my RHS beam is not quite flat where the lathe foot will go. The headstock end is pretty much dead flat but this scares me a bit, I am worried that when I tighten the mounting bolts I am going to break the foot. I assume it's cast iron?
Initial thoughts were perhaps I could cut out a wooden spacer from pine or plywood which gets squashed as it tightens down and distributes the pressure? I do have more of this RHS but naturally it also has this same feature where it was cut so that is no help.
I have a small shop press, only 8t and I am not sure it would exert enough pressure to push it flat. Could be worth a try? Any other ideas?
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Cheers,
ratters
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20th Jul 2020, 04:08 PM #24Most Valued Member
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You may have to use metal packers and shims under the foot mounting holes.
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20th Jul 2020, 07:45 PM #25Diamond Member
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or a sledge hammer,
or an angle grinder, and file,
which is how I "aligned" my spanning beam:
IMG_1428.jpgIMG_1427.jpg
but mine was cupped, and less than 1mm twisted
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20th Jul 2020, 08:35 PM #26
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21st Jul 2020, 11:12 PM #27Most Valued Member
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The centre of that tube is completely unsupported to any significant load so it won’t be difficult to correct.
Several ways you can fix that depending on what you have at hand as far as tools go.
If you have an oxy you can shrink it from the back side.
Your press will also work, it doesn’t take nearly as much pressure as most people think to push something like that out, go easy and don’t over do it.
You could also drill through the centre and put a reasonable bolt of say M12 through it and rattle a nut up on, but that will leave a couple of holes obviously.
you may even be able to use your vice if it’s big enough.
I wouldn’t grind it flat, the bend is significant enough that thinning of the wall section will become problematic for you afterward.
Given you have a press, I’d have a go with that and see where it gets you.
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26th Jul 2020, 11:22 PM #28Senior Member
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Thanks for the advice guys, I got it straightened out today and pretty quickly too.
As @racingtadpole mentioned it really didn't take much with the press. Nowhere near the kind of force I imagined it might require in fact. I did have to press it quite a way past flat though because it was springing back again.
I managed to get away without any paint damage either by covering it with a piece of cardboard and using a bit of flat bar to distribute the force along the raised section.
It's still not what I would call dead flat but I placed a few flat objects on it and there is absolutely no wibble wobble any more so I think it will be fine. Finally time to get on with setting up the lathe!
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6th Aug 2020, 10:45 AM #29Senior Member
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Finally! After a bit of critical thinking about how to move it from my carport into the shed on my own without any lifting gear, I managed to get it to its new home. It was sitting on a table which just happened to be a very close height with my box trailer, so I screwed an old hardwood board to the top of the trailer and was able to slide it on, tek screw it down on the board and then push the trailer into the shed, and the reverse operation getting it onto the stand.
Now to give everything a good clean and oil as it goes back together.
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8th Aug 2020, 01:09 PM #30Most Valued Member
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To go on a tangent, what brand is that level in the picture?
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