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Thread: Asssitance needed
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11th Apr 2020, 03:58 PM #1
Asssitance needed
I just finished boring a depression in the front of a fly fishing reel frame to accept a bezeled agate line guard. It prevents the line from cutting the soft aluminium frame pillars.
Anyway, I noticed movement in milling attachment, cross slide and the saddle. The movement was due to up directional forces as the cutter came up against the frame. I tightened up the gib in the cross slide which eliminated that some small movement in the cross slide but was still apparent on the saddle over the ways.
have a look at the pictures and you can see that my boring wasn't what is normally done on the lathe.
But I'm wondering if there's some sort of adjustment I can make to hold the saddle down to stay on the ways?
20200410_180038.jpg20200410_173819.jpg20200410_173754.jpg20200410_202733.jpg
Any suggestions appreciated.
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11th Apr 2020, 04:01 PM #2
Here's the milling attachment so you can see it.
20200223_124231.jpg
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11th Apr 2020, 04:11 PM #3Member
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Would locking the carriage down with the square bolt on the carriage help?
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11th Apr 2020, 06:15 PM #4Most Valued Member
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At the back of the saddle there is a keeper plate with either 2 bolts or 2 set screws, if you loosen the bolts/ set screws a little you would be able to insert a shim between the keeper and the underside of the bed way, once a suitable size shim is inserted you can then tighten the bolts/ set screws and secure the bed in position, this will stop the saddle raising but will also stop you from being able to move the saddle whilst machining.
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11th Apr 2020, 06:29 PM #5
The square bolt at the front I know and use it when parting.
I also know about the plate at the back. But as you say, Pipeclay, I need to bring the work piece up to the spindle so I just wondered if there was anything I have over looked or that I wasn't aware of.
But thanks, Zumanity and Pipeclay.
I guess I might just need to get myself a dedicated mill.
Oh, I hasten to add, the job was successful. Just like a the smaller version factory made reel from Hardy's.
IMG-a232992ce5860261c410fc5596bc6e0b-V.jpg
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11th Apr 2020, 10:37 PM #6Senior Member
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What a refreshing moment to see such a pretty self made reel.
Its so easy to buy something from china, which works very well in spooling up a fly line, and often has quite adequate drag, BUT, there's nothing purist in that!
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12th Apr 2020, 12:34 AM #7
Hi Boris,
There should be some means of adjusting the saddle for wear in the shears. The saddle will get tighter/harder to move as you get towards the tailstock. Are there any shims or adjustment in the retaining plates at the front or back of the saddle, or both ?Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Apr 2020, 08:08 AM #8
Brian, I'm sorry to disappoint you, I didn't make that reel. It's a vintage reel made by Hardy when they still made reels in England.
It's a model called "Perfect" mark II and on some of those they didn't add agate line guards. Since I had a spare genuine line guard I decided I'd learn a few reel making skills by fitting it to the reel.
My long term aim is to make a reel from scratch but in the meantime I thought I'd acquire some know how.
Having said that, I agree with you that a bench made reel would be great. Here's another photo.
20200412_003828.jpg
20200412_003859.jpg
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12th Apr 2020, 08:14 AM #9
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12th Apr 2020, 06:23 PM #10Most Valued Member
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could you mount the real on a face plate?
aaron
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12th Apr 2020, 08:12 PM #11
That's a good question, azzrock.
I hadn't thought of that. I have a face plate, but I'd need to marry that with an angle plate to attach the reel on its edge.
2_Top-Left-Back-View.jpg
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12th Apr 2020, 11:32 PM #12Most Valued Member
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angle plate is one thing. I havent really seen an hercus size angle plate. No doubt there out there. a 123 block might work.
Id be inclined to to try a sold piece of angle iron. maybe even a ubolt.
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