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  1. #16
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    Feb 2020
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    You can get the ISO 32 in 5 litres.
    I guess you mean Nulon NHF32-5 the good-quality Australian-made hydraulic fluid, that's really good for hydraulic systems.

  2. #17
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    Mar 2009
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    I haven't been in either for a while now but both Pirtek and Enzed used to sell a wide variety of hydraulic oil in container sizes from 1lt upwards and I can't think of any reason they would have stopped doing so.
    Call into one of their shops and ask, I reckon you might be pleasantly surprised.
    For the record I run ISO 68 hydraulic oil (from Pirtek) in the spindle and on the ways of my Hercus 260.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  3. #18
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Because it doesn't contain many nasty contaminants like combustion products, hydraulic oil turns out to be relatively easy to clean. Hence use of this recycled oil especially where it's not being used in high pressure non workplace situations makes a lot of sense. About 5 years ago I bought 20L of ISO68 hydraulic oil from an oil recycler (Trubluoil) for not much more than the price of 5L of new oil. I add the additives as recommended by Guy Lautards recipe and use lots of it. So far I've used ~5L worth and given some way but still have about another 10 years worth. I also buy my chainsaw bar oil from the same recycler who adds tackifier to my spec and it works out to about 1/3 the price of commercial products. The recycler normally sells the chainsaw oil in 1000L lots but he will sell 20L drums as well.

  4. #19
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    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Repco had hydraulic oil last time I was in there. ISO32 and 48 from memory, and the price was reasonable.

    Steve

  5. #20
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    Feb 2020
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    Melbourne
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    Thanks for the responses guys, now I feel I'm getting somewhere.
    If ISO68 hydraulic oil isn't doing any harm, then starting with a 32 grade oil of some kind and watching closely to see if it's leaving town faster than I'm adding it sounds like a way forward before settling on Vacuolene.
    Also, I'm now interested to research Truebluoil and recipes from Guy Lautard.
    Freddie.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Guys,

    Since most small lathes have a total loss oiling system, the thicker oil won't run out as fast as thin oil ! At the end of the day I doubt that it matters much as long as the machine gets oiled with something.

    As I've said before, my Myford drinks the stuff (5 - 30 SAE) engine oil, but Its maybe half a tea spoon full a day ! There is always a puddle under the headstock.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #22
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    Aug 2008
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    Charlestown NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    There is always a puddle under the headstock.
    I thought that only applied to British cars and bikes.

    peter

  8. #23
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Well Peter, its a British lathe isn't it you would expect it to leak oil
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #24
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,
    Since most small lathes have a total loss oiling system, the thicker oil won't run out as fast as thin oil ! At the end of the day I doubt that it matters much as long as the machine gets oiled with something.

    As I've said before, my Myford drinks the stuff (5 - 30 SAE) engine oil, but Its maybe half a tea spoon full a day ! There is always a puddle under the headstock.
    The intermediate pulley bearings on mine distributes some oil around the place.

  10. #25
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    Aug 2008
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    Tennant Creek, Aust
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Well Peter, its a British lathe isn't it you would expect it to leak oil

    DonaldDuck.gif

    Ratty 05/2004 -05/07/2010 COOPER 01/08/1998-31/01/2012

  11. #26
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    Aug 2008
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    Charlestown NSW
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Well Peter, its a British lathe isn't it you would expect it to leak oil
    \
    Well, with you being British, I really didn't want to infer anything.. I had a couple of original Minis as my first couple of cars. Rust on the front subframe was never a problem.
    peter

  12. #27
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    Aug 2008
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    It's a built in oil filter; the oil can't get contaminated if it doesn't stay in there for long

  13. #28
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    Nov 2008
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    Perth WA
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    In the 1990 edition of the 'Textbook of Turning' by Peter Hercus, there is a list of recommended oils for use on the 260 lathe. Mobil Vactra Oil Heavy heads the list followed by Caltex Regal RX 068, Shell Vitrea Oil 68 and others.
    The Vactra Oil Heavy was also at the top of the list in the 1970 edition of Peter's textbook for the 9" lathe. Based on those recommendations I contacted Mobil (because they are relatively close by) and was informed that the modern day equivalent of the Vactra was Mobil DTE Heavy Medium ISO 68. I purchased the smallest option, 20 litres.

    I use the DTE to lubricate the spindles of my 1958 plain bearing A, my roller bearing '69 ARL , the spindle in my No.O mill and the 18 oil nipples on the 1962 SV13 mill. The recommended oil for the Schaublin mill was watery ISO 22
    but the technical adviser at Mobil suggested that the heavier ISO 68 would probably compensate for some of the wear and tear it would have acquired during its working life.

    In reality most of these machines would survive on a diet of just about any clean fresh oil.

    One final thing, just remember to remove the back gear covers on the 9" lathes and oil the back gears AND remove the grub screw from the cone pulley and lubricate the spindle. (With OIL on a No.O!!!)

  14. #29
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    Feb 2020
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anorak Bob View Post
    The Vactra Oil Heavy was also at the top of the list in the 1970 edition of Peter's textbook for the 9" lathe....
    the modern day equivalent of the Vactra was Mobil DTE Heavy Medium ISO 68.....
    The recommended oil for the Schaublin mill was watery ISO 22 but the technical adviser at Mobil suggested that the heavier ISO 68 would probably compensate for some of the wear and tear it would have acquired during its working life.....

    One final thing, just remember to remove the back gear covers on the 9" lathes and oil the back gears AND remove the grub screw from the cone pulley and lubricate the spindle. (With OIL on a No.O!!!)
    Great tips right there Bob, thanks - and thanks too to the other contributors.
    I was under the impression that ISO 22 was the 'recomended' grade - maybe I was misled there as far as the Hercus is concerned. It looks as if I'm on track now though and that an ISO 68 will be just the thing.

  15. #30
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    It depends on the machine, how it has been designed and the wear present - we had a lathe at work that required ISO 10. With the machines that members typically run here, 68 is a nice GP oil weight.

    Michael

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