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  1. #1
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    Default Hercus Restoration Log

    Hmmmm... instead of hijacking my own threads elsewhere, I figured I might be better to just start a new one on the restoration progress

    Part #1, The tear down.


  2. #2
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    Default

    Part #2, Strip, clean and paint


  3. #3
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    Default

    Part 3, A quick re-assemble of the headstock...

  4. #4
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    A quicky update. Part 4, A new motor, VSD and belts...


  5. #5
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    Default

    it's all about balance... Part 5, balancing the spindle.


  6. #6
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    Default

    A little slow on the rebuilding, but here's the latest ...
    Part #6, Saddle reassembly and chuck cleaning


  7. #7
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    Default

    I'm only just getting time to watch these.

    Episode 4, the wiring.


    1. It looks like you used an external latching relay for stop/start.
      If you didn't have the VFD, you would have to do it that way.
      I assume your VFD would already have a "don't turn on if the power was interrupted" feature?
    2. Couldn't see, from the diagram,
      but was the reversing switch hard-wired on the outputs,
      or using VFD terminal inputs?

  8. #8
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    G'day Nigel, glad you could watch them and hope you're enjoying them
    Code:
    I'm only just getting time to watch these.
    Seems there's plenty of time up a lot of peoples sleeves these days! I wish I had some time to finish the lathe off (Just the alignment for now) but I'm struggling to get back to it because of other piled up jobs!

    Code:
    It looks like you used an external latching relay for stop/start.
    Actually, it only supplies mains power to the VSD. It's a standard start/stop/hold-in circuit that covers all my needs so that at the end of the day, I hit the E.Stop and everything drops out (along with a few other reasons)

    Code:
    I assume your VFD would already have a "don't turn on if the power was interrupted" feature?
    As far as I could tell, it didn't have that option - it's an ancient version (maybe 20-odd years old) and pretty basic in its functions. From memory, there's only a couple of dozen parameters in it.

    Code:
    Couldn't see, from the diagram, but was the reversing switch hard-wired on the outputs, or using VFD terminal inputs?
    Wired to the inputs as a start/fwd, start/rev function. That way, I could just use a single pole on-off-on rotary switch as the control device (I already had one in my box of tricks) and automatically makes use of the ramp settings.

    Thanks for watching, stay safe!

  9. #9
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    Jun 2020
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    Australia
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    Default

    Nigel, Thanks for the PM... John, if you see this and are willing, do you recall the paint you used in your resto?

    Ta.

    GB

    Hi Nigel

    Found your video on YT before I found this! Loved 'em.

    A quick question: what paint did you use? Is it holding up OK?

    Thanks

    Geoff

  10. #10
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by besty771 View Post
    Hi Nigel

    Not me, this is John's restoration.


    Mine was a 1961 Hercus 9C. No videos.
    https://metalworkforums.com/f189/t20...vesby-week-1-a
    I used "Rust Stop" paint. Black covered really well with just one coat, "Machine Grey" is OK, but Brunswick Green and White are very thin - needs many coats.

  11. #11
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    G'day Geoff, I saw your comment on YT... thanks for watching

    The paint's just a simple rattle-can from the local hardware. 'Dulux metal shield' and the main colour is Deep Blue. It's a little more blue than what it appeared on the cap but a totally acceptable colour all the same.
    I found it was good coverage and a pretty quick drying time, but of course, it takes a few cans to do the whole lathe. The red I used on the details was the same brand, but for some reason it seemed to stay tacky for days.
    It seems to hold up pretty well (although, I haven't given the lathe a hard time yet - it's still not aligned), but I've used this paint before now for other projects and found that it's been pretty good and hard wearing. I could recommend the paint if you're looking for something tough and long-lasting, but the colours seem to be a pretty limited selection.

    Hope this helps

    (Edit: I just looked... the blue is labeled "Multi-purpose" and the red is "QD Enamel". That might explain why the difference in drying times)

  12. #12
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    Australia
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    Thanks for that.

    Haven't started my resto yet - when I do, I should get off my butt and chronicle it here - perhaps in a threat to itself, though!

    With a million things on (how did I get anything done before I retired?), not sure when I will start or how long it will take! In the mean time I am information gathering, plus a few spares I know I will need.

    Cheers,

    Geoff

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Melbourne
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    73
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    22

    Smile Large dials Hercus 9 C

    Hi All,

    Finally getting back to finishing off the restoration of my Hercus 9 C, I am upgrading both the cross slide and compound screws and nuts to metric.
    The compound screw I bought is TR12x3 (12mm X 3mm Lead) X 200mm Left-Hand Trapezoidal Lead Screws - C45 Carbon Steel.

    I am intending to fit a DRO, however I would also like to fit some large dials, can anyone save me doing the math (not my long suit) and make a recommendation on the graduations?
    I will probably just buy some dials online and machine them to fit.


    Cheers
    Tex

  14. #14
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    Jan 2018
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    Melbourne
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    Thumbs up metric cross slide screw.

    Ok, cancel my last request, it was actually dead easy to calculate.

    3mm. divided by 120 graduations is 0.025mm. (25 microns), should do nicely.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tex260Z View Post
    Ok, cancel my last request, it was actually dead easy to calculate.

    3mm. divided by 120 graduations is 0.025mm. (25 microns), should do nicely.
    Hi Tex,

    3 mm per turn seems a little coarse for a top slide !
    I think mine is only 0.2" inch per turn.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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