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Thread: First threads

  1. #1
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    Default First threads

    Well, I'm going to need to be making motorcycle shock mounts, axles, spacial fasteners, all sorts, so I thought I'd best grab some scrap and start trying my hand at threading.

    I cut a few threads on big chunks (25+mm diam) of round stock and was reasonably happy. But nothing is proved until you can spin something onto your threads, right? So, pictured is my "Flintstones' (Will-maaaa!!) scale mega nut and bolt, complete with some of my flawed thinking scribbled on scrap for posterity.

    The 'nut' threads on very nicely and also constitutes an excellent argument to my wife as to why I now need a mill so that I can cut hex heads onto my nuts and bolts.

    Just wanted to thank everyone on this forum for their help and encouragement thus far.


    Moz
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MosquitoGarage View Post
    Well, I'm going to need to be making motorcycle shock mounts, axles, spacial fasteners, all sorts, so I thought I'd best grab some scrap and start trying my hand at threading.

    I cut a few threads on big chunks (25+mm diam) of round stock and was reasonably happy. But nothing is proved until you can spin something onto your threads, right? So, pictured is my "Flintstones' (Will-maaaa!!) scale mega nut and bolt, complete with some of my flawed thinking scribbled on scrap for posterity.

    The 'nut' threads on very nicely and also constitutes an excellent argument to my wife as to why I now need a mill so that I can cut hex heads onto my nuts and bolts.

    Just wanted to thank everyone on this forum for their help and encouragement thus far.


    Moz

    nice one mate.
    what method did you use?
    its great to be able to cut threads.
    you can machine the flats on round stock turning it into hex on the lathe.
    fairly easly. im not to sure how you would go on a hercus thou.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    nice one mate.
    what method did you use?
    its great to be able to cut threads.
    you can machine the flats on round stock turning it into hex on the lathe.
    fairly easly. im not to sure how you would go on a hercus thou.
    azzrock -

    What method did I use? Umm...I squinted, zeroed, ran a scratch pass, then backed out, put the lathe in reverse, headed back to the start and repeated the process over and over until I was happy. In short, no thread chasing dial, just patience, lots of FWD-REV action and lots of sticking my tongue out of the corner of my mouth to look like a goose as I concentrated.

    Same for the inside cut on the 'nut' just with even more squinting and less visibility of course.

    Used carbide inserts for the work and very happy with how they performed.



    Moz

  4. #4
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    Default thread cutting

    did you advance the compound slide as you cut the tread?

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    did you advance the compound slide as you cut the tread?
    Just a little more with each pass, yeah. What other options are there? Like I said, I'm new at this...



    Moz

  6. #6
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    Default compound slide

    its n
    been a while but i think you offset the compound slide 30 deg.
    i think uae the compound slide to advance the tool.
    i use the other method
    aaron

  7. #7
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    Default

    Hi Moz,

    Looks good to me !

    As far as using the compound and turning it to 30 degrees is concerned, I don't bother and simply plunge into the work. For internal threads I prefer to run the lathe in reverse with the tool moving away from the chuck. Less chance of hitting the chuck or the back of a blind hole that way.

    Yes I've heard all the stories about the chuck unscrewing, the only time I've known it happen is if the tool has jammed in the work and locked the chuck. Ok its never happened to me and I don't over tighten the chuck on the spindle.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
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    Default

    azz, Baron, thanks for the input.

    azz, no, I didn't offset, I just went in straight. I watch a lot of This Old Tony on YouTube and have a lot of respect for the quality of his work and he advised that most of the time he's not fussed with the whole 30 degree offset thing so in the name of keeping things simple whilst on my L-plates, I just kept it all straight.

    Baron, I'm not running in reverse in this case as I was moving slowly and watching the thing like a geeky hawk. I can certainly see the advantage of reversing if moving faster...is it Steve Piezowski or somesuch on YouTube who also gives this tip? It's a good one.

    The one extra thing I'll add is this - I have been running back gears and my VFD (potentiometer control) turned way down slow, so I have the advantage of being able to really crawl along. I know that cuts tend to be cleaner going a bit faster but this is early days for me, so I am using every cheat that I can possibly factor in.

    Thanks again for all the good tips and opinions guys.



    Moz

  9. #9
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    Default carbide

    Quote Originally Posted by MosquitoGarage View Post
    azzrock -

    What method did I use? Umm...I squinted, zeroed, ran a scratch pass, then backed out, put the lathe in reverse, headed back to the start and repeated the process over and over until I was happy. In short, no thread chasing dial, just patience, lots of FWD-REV action and lots of sticking my tongue out of the corner of my mouth to look like a goose as I concentrated.

    Same for the inside cut on the 'nut' just with even more squinting and less visibility of course.

    Used carbide inserts for the work and very happy with how they performed.



    Moz



    hi mate have you got a photo of your carbide threading tool. do you have a carbide boring bar for threading.

  10. #10
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    Default

    threading inserts.jpg


    Quote Originally Posted by azzrock View Post
    hi mate have you got a photo of your carbide threading tool. do you have a carbide boring bar for threading.
    azz -

    Yep, see pics attached. These are just cheap Chinesium, the inside threading insert on a 12mm boring bar and the outside insert on a standard square bar. Both of these have taken a thrashing. The insert in the square bar really was my 'learning insert' - note that 2 out of its 3 tips have been broken off. The little gold insert is still in great shape and I hope it stays that way because for the time being it's the only one I've got!

  11. #11
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    Default

    When you finally get around to threading on a more regular basis for rigidity you may want to look at a 16 mm bar for internal threading for bores 20 mm plus.
    With your outside threading tool it looks to be a 16 size tip, if you are going to do fine threads. 8 tpi and higher you may want to look at getting an outside tool to suit size 11 tips.

  12. #12
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    When you finally get around to threading on a more regular basis for rigidity you may want to look at a 16 mm bar for internal threading for bores 20 mm plus.
    With your outside threading toolit looks to be a 16 size tip, if you are going to do fine threads. 8 tpi and higher you may want to look at getting outside tool to suit size 11 and 7 tips.
    Thanks for the wisdom. And yeah, I have a 16mm bar ordered - the perfect fit for the boring bar holder that fits my new QCTP. I hear you on the smaller tips for finer threads, too.

    I started out with mega hunks of steel and 1.5mm pitch just to ease into it, I figured bigger would be easier. In the near future I will be going smaller and finer. In fact I'll probably pick up a wee 8mm boring bar for this as well.

    There's no end to the bits and pieces you need, is there?



    Moz

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