Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 21 of 21
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,665

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I don't want to labour the point, but I oil my lathe every time that I use it, I keep the oil cups full and inject oil into the oil nipples daily. The oil nipples look like grease ones with the little ball in them. Actually I think that is why so many machines are worn and damaged for lack of lubrication, people mistakenly think they are for grease.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    52
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Have you noticed the threaded hole in the body of the back gear, do you intend plugging that hole and then every so often removing it so you can fit a grease nipple to grease the back gear, generally it has a cheese head screw in their which gets removed to allow for oiling of the back gear.
    Yes, Southbend manual recommended a nipple, so I have ordered 1/4WW grease nipples. Since the back gear turns so slowly, was thinking of leaving one in there permanently

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    52
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I don't want to labour the point, but I oil my lathe every time that I use it, I keep the oil cups full and inject oil into the oil nipples daily. The oil nipples look like grease ones with the little ball in them. Actually I think that is why so many machines are worn and damaged for lack of lubrication, people mistakenly think they are for grease.
    The spindle bearings (top and front) do deserve oil every few days use. I have the traditional caps, not the push-in thingies.

    Thought about the glass oilers - too fragile.

    Found some taller metal oilers - about 1 1/2" high by 1/4 diameter, but thought they would look funny.


    For now, will try just filling the old style caps before each use, and see how fast my "air tool oil" leaks out!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,665

    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I like the traditional glass oilers, I don't have any though. You can get clear plastic glasses for them !

    "Adams" make the various sizes of cup and drip oilers here in the UK.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    52
    Posts
    23

    Default Week 5.5

    too many photos for a weekly update, so half weekly for now!


    When What
    Friday Delivery from Mal arrived.

    Front oilers and back gear set screws:
    IMG_1535.jpgIMG_1536.jpg
    The refurb manual says "82. Model A,B,C: Back-gear adjustment. Engage the back-gears using the eccentric lever and allow the mating gears to bottom out." No chance with my worn gears!

    No-where near bottoming out. About 1/32" away?

    I will just adjust the stop so that I don't jam my fingers
    IMG_1537.jpg
    Now, the reverse selector & gears.

    I need to make this pile of broken parts like the picture in the manual
    IMG_1540.jpg
    There are some nasty burrs on the side of these gears. They run against a flat iron casting. Thankfully, these are easy to file flat - iron or mild steel. IMG_1541.jpg
    Remove the old oil wicks, and cut some new. The refurb manual says to use a square/rectangular wick, but I used 3/16 round IMG_1542.jpgIMG_1543.jpgIMG_1544.jpg
    A little oil, and it slips right in. Note the nut - one corner badly ground off?? IMG_1545.jpgIMG_1548.jpg
    The other gear is similarly munged on the edge, and its nut is also ground away! IMG_1549.jpg
    Now for the selector casting.
    (two castings in my case, because it is broken!)

    A 3/16 by 3/32 felt gets cut, and forced to fit flat in the groove.
    IMG_1550.jpgIMG_1551.jpg
    Shove the shaft in there, and we are finished, right? IMG_1552.jpg
    Wrong. The big gear binds about 5mm onto the shaft, and the little one is a little tight around the keyway.


    Slight file for the latter.
    Think about the former overnight.
    IMG_1553.jpg
    Saturday Decide to just force the big gear on using a press. It wasn't actually hard to do, just couldn't move it by hand.


    Tightening the gear shafts was a challenge. Dad's old 5/16 Whitworth spanner, and trialling a few different vices, were necessary to lock it in place
    IMG_1554.jpgIMG_1556.jpg
    The final shaft. Nut was tight. Dad's old 7/16WW spanner, and 3/8 WW taps and dies to the rescue! IMG_1577.jpg
    Mount on the headstock. It binds a little when turning the little gears by hand, but when driven by the spindle end, sounds and feels OK.

    Not sure I like the unpainted look. For handles, I have tried to leave them bare iron/steel, but maybe the casting behind the selector plunger should have been painted
    IMG_1578.jpg
    Now, onto the lead screw. Mostly seems good, except for slight damage near the end. (top of photo, 13 teeth along)


    I'm hoping I can panelbeat this - cold-chisel hammer the damage back to re-form the acme peak
    IMG_1579.jpg
    Screw the banjo bracket end onto the bed, and adjust the banjo angle for good meshing.

    Eureka! A lathe that will move its own saddle. Feeld good - even without oil on the feed gears
    IMG_1582.jpgIMG_1583.jpg
    Note that i managed to nudge the headstock out of position.

    Not bolted down tightly,
    not aligned/shimmed yet!
    IMG_1580.jpg
    Starting to look like a lathe now. Time for the drive unit.


    The shaft is a little loose - I can feel the wiggle, but when it is in both sides it feels a lot better.

    I might crush the casting - horizontally - a little if it leaks too much oil.
    IMG_1585.jpg
    Cut the felts. South Bend refurb manual shows something with bronze bush bearings and no wicks, so I'm guessing 3/16 by 3/32 IMG_1586.jpgIMG_1587.jpg
    Don't forget the drive belt IMG_1588.jpg
    These fibre washers from the refurb kit look correct.

    Note that the woodruff key is a poor fit - narrower than the slot.
    I'll just have to make sure the locking set screw is always tight
    IMG_1589.jpgIMG_1590.jpg
    Start working out where it all fits. The belt seems so long IMG_1591.jpg
    and yet, after aligning pulley sides with a straight edge, things don't seem correct.


    1) This hand-made tensioning rod seems too long. Could the belt have shrunk over the last 5 years?


    2) The bug wheel hangs over the back of my stand. Grrr. Can't put it hard against a wall (
    IMG_1594.jpgIMG_1595.jpg
    The other problem. Casting is 1/2" too far left - over the L on my stand. Inconvenient!

    I could try to move the lathe bed by that amount, but mounting the casting under the L would probably be wiser.
    IMG_1596.jpg
    P.S. Does anyone know what this large flat flange on the casting is for? IMG_1597.jpg
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 16th Sep 2019 at 08:47 AM. Reason: spanner/tap/die sizes

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Age
    52
    Posts
    23

    Default Week 6

    Some big steps forward


    When What Piccy Comment
    Monday Start on the tailstock. Hand wheel was already off.

    Take the barrel and screw out the lazy way, by driving them both out without undoing the nut.
    'twas a bit tight - had to use a mallet
    Attachment 382159 Note the 2 lock pin holes!
    Clean gunge out of the casting split, and yet another oil hole Attachment 382161Attachment 382162
    End of barrel has been badly bashed around. Can't read first inch of graduations

    Also does not slide smoothly in/out of casting.
    Some filing required
    Attachment 382163
    More gunge removal Attachment 382164Attachment 382170
    As far as I can see, there is no way for oil to get inside the barrel. The oil hole on top of the headstock oils the outside of the barrel. So, grease the screw.


    Oh, and clean yet another oil hole - this one just oils the shaft in the nut
    Attachment 382166Attachment 382167Attachment 382168
    Grease the nut a little, because it will be a while before I dribble oil inside it.


    Screw it tight, so that the oil hole points up and forms a teeny-tiny reservoir
    Attachment 382171Attachment 382172
    Shaft still binds inside the nut. Separate, file screw shaft, re-assemble Attachment 382173Attachment 382175Attachment 382174
    Finally got it feeling good. I needed a tiny washer so that there was no gap between the handwheel and the nut - otherwise the barrel and thread can wiggle left/right.

    I suspect this is not an original handwheel - hence the two pin holes.
    Attachment 382176
    OK. Headstock and tailstock are refurb'd, time for some alignment.


    Clean out the spindle, borrow an MT3 drill, and trial fit. Binds in a few spots, so sandpaper a burr or two
    (different spots - on both the drill and in the spindle)
    Attachment 382177
    Get some centres and check alignment
    (couldn't find an MT2 dead centre)

    From top, pretty close.





    From front, tailstock looks nearly 1mm low?







    Attachment 382178Attachment 382179Attachment 382180
    OK. Thinking cap time. Serial number on tailstock is mismatch, so I might have to shim it. Bed was in bad shape, so tailstock might be in a slight dip.

    I tried extending the tailstock barrel a few times. Similar results.

    I slide it up and down a few times while holding onto headstock, and notice both of them rock a little. Aha. Tighten headstock
    Attachment 382181
    Purists, look away now!!!


    Bottom of tailstock has nasty wear groove on chuck side of flat. My factory neighbour recommends some lapping in - not with valve grinding paste, but just fresh sheet of fine, quality, ceramic sandpaper
    Attachment 382182
    So, it is now a little better.

    Having used an unworn part of the bed to flatten the tailstock, I look at the rest of the bed.

    It needs attention, but I'm tired and can barely see the dips and grooves. Tomorrow
    Attachment 382183 that was as good as I could get the bed with a 2nd cut file, about 5 weeks ago!
    Tuesday I will have to shim the tailstock. Time to crack it open Attachment 382184 Scrape the new paint, which is now scratched/worn everywhere except in this seam
    Nope, it wasn't the paint. Many bashes with the mallet, and it finally splits.

    Very tight little groove/keyway between the base and top
    Attachment 382185
    Try the base on the bed, and realise the V also needs fettling.
    Purists, go get a coffee?

    More sandpaper. Note the material removal pattern on the right. Just like the bed. Only the very top and bottom of V were touching
    Attachment 382186 Much easier to sand just the base instead of whole tailstock. Lighter to push )
    After a bit of lapping, it felt tight. Maybe 2 or 3 thou of rocking? Oil will take up that!

    Re-assembled tailstock and put centres back in. A 25thou feeler gauge under the left flat of the tailstock was close to aligning centres from the front.
    Too busy to
    take photos
    Split tailstock apart again.

    Time to shim.

    Found Dad's old 1950s brass shim set
    Attachment 382187
    Micrometer located a 12 or 13thou sheet. Slice a few strips off that.

    (and gently sand the rough/serrated edges that the snips created)
    Attachment 382188
    Gently clean the shims,




    and the groove in the base/top thoroughly.




    Might as well do the cam/lever while I can
    IMG_1644.jpgIMG_1645.jpgIMG_1646.jpg A hidden stamped number!
    OK. Shims ready to be crushed into place IMG_1647.jpg
    Oops - forgot to clean this oil hole
    (which lubes the cam/lever?)


    Re-assemble tailstock, for the last time!
    (???)
    IMG_1648.jpg
    Now, the saddle. Purists, watch TV?

    Lapp out the high ridges in the Vs. Some of them were bad, I had to scrape first, then lapp one side of the V at a time
    IMG_1649.jpgIMG_1650.jpg
    Finally, some polishing with a new sharpening stone and some oil.




    Also tidied the top of the Vs.

    A drill (19/32??) acted as a guide, laying on the flat, for the closest V. The rear pair I just did across both at once.
    IMG_1651.jpgIMG_1652.jpg
    Cleaning time - sandpaper and stone debris must be thoroughly removed. Metho and clean paper towels IMG_1653.jpgIMG_1654.jpgIMG_1656.jpg
    Slop some oil on the ways.

    The tailstock felt perfect - a decent push and it keeps going!

    The saddle still grabs a bit - especially when going past the headstock. More fettling required in the future.
    IMG_1657.jpg
    Refurb manual suggests putting the felt wipers on before assembling the saddle. I assume they should be soaked in oil.




    P.S. After observing how much fine metal the wipers pick up in the first few dozen wipes, I would actually leave fitting these till last
    IMG_1659.jpgIMG_1660.jpg
    OK. Tailstock floating on oiled bed, so back to checking alignment between centers.


    So, after about 3 hours, the centres basically line up. Not perfect, but unless I am centre drilling carburettor jets, it should suffice
    IMG_1664.jpg
    Wednesday Start on the slides.

    The compound slide was hammered tight (with a centre punch), so getting this cap nut off was hard.


    Thread in the cap needed cleanup. 7/32 WW?
    IMG_1669.jpgIMG_1671.jpg
    Tiniest key I've ever seen. Loose fit in the handle slot in the handle - too narrow - which meant the handle had a few degrees rotation before turning the shaft.

    This explains why someone took to the cap nut with a center punch
    IMG_1672.jpg woodrow the dog says woodruff?
    Cross slide. Locking cap nut came off easily, but the handle would not come off. Tapped with a hammer as much as I dared.

    Decided to leave as is.
    IMG_1673.jpg
    Compound slide angle locking grubscrews.


    One came out easily, one was tight. Guess which one is which?
    IMG_1675.jpg RHS needed some serious die cleanup
    Some nasty burrs which prevented smooth rotation IMG_1676.jpgIMG_1678.jpgIMG_1679.jpg
    Weird hole in cross slide. It is about 4cm deep, but goes nowhere????????????? IMG_1680.jpg
    Remove cross slide. Only had a large pin spanner. Had to improvise a little.


    Also had to panel beat the munged edges of the pin socket with a hammer, to try and put the material back into the edges of the hole!
    IMG_1681.jpgIMG_1682.jpg
    Finally, mounting the drive unit.


    This - about 8cm below the bed feet - is about as low as I can go and have the belt not foul the headstock.


    There is not a lot of room with the motor on the swing bracket. Wish I had tested this before I drilled & painted the stand
    IMG_1683.jpgIMG_1684.jpgIMG_1685.jpg
    I find a little box tray that I can cantilever in under my L sides. IMG_1687.jpgIMG_1688.jpgIMG_1689.jpg
    and the motor just clears it at the bottom (stretched belt) position.


    Just some bolt holes to drill, and a new drive belt.

    Tomorrow
    IMG_1690.jpg

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Hercus lathe refurb in Revesby: week 1
    By nigelpearson in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 14th Aug 2019, 08:57 PM
  2. New Hercus user in Revesby, Sydney
    By nigelpearson in forum G'day mate - THE WELCOME WAGON -Introduce yourself
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11th Aug 2019, 06:56 PM
  3. Hercus hacksaw refurb - pic thread
    By StrayAlien in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 18th Jun 2019, 09:29 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •