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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    31
    Posts
    1,004

    Default

    By the looks of it your tailstock alignment is spot on!

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    By the looks of it your tailstock alignment is spot on!

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk
    Yeah, it is for sure. I did the classic 'propellor' trick with a steel rule in between the centres and it spun as flat as a tack. Apart from the wear inside the tailstock quill, this old lathe really is in amazing condition.


    Moz

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Holbrook, NSW
    Age
    69
    Posts
    382

    Default tailstock quill

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Do the 260 and the 9" share a common part for the tailstock quill?
    Asking as I'm pretty sure I've got a spare quill somewhere from when I had my old 9".

    Steve
    Hi Steve,
    The only variation is the graduations. Some have imperial, some have metric and some have both.
    Mal

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    9

    Default New Quill

    G'Day fellas,

    Need some advice. I bought myself a new tailstock quill and it starts to go into the tailstock but after locating the key in the keyway on the quill it slides further about an inch then stops. I measured the quill and compared it to the old one that fits like a smooth glove and the overall diameter is good. The keyway is the same depth but .001" narrower.

    What makes me think it isn't the keyway is that the quill slides in with the keyway and key engaged a good inch and the width of the keyway is the same width all the way along.

    Any ideas?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    31
    Posts
    1,004

    Default

    Check the depth of the keyway, I bet you it ramps slightly.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    58

    Default

    For those still awake:

    Today I purchased a new 3-16mm keyless chuck and Mt2 arbor. So at least the MT2 arbor is fresh.

    I also ordered an Mt2 reamer. So, step 1 in this experiment will be to attempt to ream a good surface back into my tailstock quill. If this fails, I'll try reboring the MT2 inner taper. If this also fails, I'll buy a new quill.

    In short, I'll try the learning stuff first and fall back to the purchasing phase if need be. Expect all the edge-of-the-seat news here as it happens!



    Moz

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    164

    Default

    Not sure if you have got the tailstock quill back into shape yet but you might want to consider trying this. From new out of the crate the taper on my drill chuck didn't ever feel like it locked in tight - the thought of it spinning was always in the back of my mind but hey it's a new lathe, then one day it took off and spun the drill chuck taper in the quill. I couldn't see or feel any damage but after that I was always on edge and with good reason as at times it would give a small jump, even after I had given the chuck a few taps with a plastic mallet. I thought about drilling and fixing some sort of stop that would hold the tang, but first off I tried some fine valve grinding paste and using an old MT2 to 1MT adaptor lapped the tapers together it didn't need much and took all of a minute or two. That was around 10 yrs ago - it hasn't budged since then and no need for the plastic mallet just push it in firmly by hand while giving it a slight twist.

    My rotary table has a 3MT taper through the center and I always has issues with excessive run out when I used a collet chuck in the taper, I knew the chuck was ok as it had no run out in the mill so it had to be the rotary table, I tried the same trick with fine grinding paste and the run out just about completely vanished reducing from around 4-5 thou to less than 1thou.

    I know there are some that will cringe at this idea but if you feel the taper is shot any way you have nothing to lose.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    Not sure if you have got the tailstock quill back into shape yet but you might want to consider trying this. From new out of the crate the taper on my drill chuck didn't ever feel like it locked in tight - the thought of it spinning was always in the back of my mind but hey it's a new lathe, then one day it took off and spun the drill chuck taper in the quill. I couldn't see or feel any damage but after that I was always on edge and with good reason as at times it would give a small jump, even after I had given the chuck a few taps with a plastic mallet. I thought about drilling and fixing some sort of stop that would hold the tang, but first off I tried some fine valve grinding paste and using an old MT2 to 1MT adaptor lapped the tapers together it didn't need much and took all of a minute or two. That was around 10 yrs ago - it hasn't budged since then and no need for the plastic mallet just push it in firmly by hand while giving it a slight twist.

    My rotary table has a 3MT taper through the center and I always has issues with excessive run out when I used a collet chuck in the taper, I knew the chuck was ok as it had no run out in the mill so it had to be the rotary table, I tried the same trick with fine grinding paste and the run out just about completely vanished reducing from around 4-5 thou to less than 1thou.

    I know there are some that will cringe at this idea but if you feel the taper is shot any way you have nothing to lose.
    Thanks for the tip!

    Haven't tried the reaming yet but who knows, if the result is a bit average I might yet give the lapping a go. As I said previously, if I really stuff it up I can always just buy a new quill.


    Moz

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