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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    South Australia
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    88

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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Do the 260 and the 9" share a common part for the tailstock quill?
    Asking as I'm pretty sure I've got a spare quill somewhere from when I had my old 9".

    Steve
    Pretty sure they are the same quill, Steve.

    If quill is in decent condition I'm definitely interested. Let me know via direct message how much you want for it.

    Really appreciate the help and advice on this forum from all of you people!



    Moz

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    Hi Moz.
    Managed to find it, but unfortunately it's not in particularly good condition in the bore.
    Better to just buy a new one I reckon.

    Steve

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    No worries Steve, thanks so much for having a look, anyhow.

    And thanks to everyone else who has chimed in with wisdom and offers.


    Moz

  4. #19
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    Quote Originally Posted by MosquitoGarage View Post
    Murray Bridge not that far from me and I am often going past there on my way to The Bend. Thanks again! Moz
    Do you race or spectate???
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Do you race or spectate???
    Kryn
    Kryn -

    Have not raced in a couple years but still have race bike (in avatar) and will get back into it. Pitted for nephew recently at ASBK/Asia Cup round at The Bend. Always working on, modifying, riding bikes, hence why stumbling across my Hercus has been such a blessing. Flywheels to skim, race pegs to turn, brackets, bosses and widgets to make!

    Yet to ride The Bend but have done plenty of time at Mallala as well as Phillip Island.


    Moz

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Griffith NSW
    Posts
    435

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    MT2 reamer sets can be had for 24 bucks and up on ebay right now. Thats where I acquired mine and it works a treat.

    I was in the exact same position as OP, very good quality 260 for peanuts and otherwise damn near flawless apart from a tailstock quill that had seen some spinning arbors in its time. It took 10 minutes to give it a tickle with the reamer and it has a substantial improvement in bearing area and the taper is smooth and perfectly serviceable. I didnt want to dig to china in there, youre introducing the possibility of an error of alignment with more material removed. I checked the fit against freshly ground MT2 tapers and it was happy days.

    I cant fathom that people here are encouraging purchasing a $135 replacement part without giving a $24 tool and a few minutes of careful twirling a go first. The quill, even if the bore is pretty damn chewed up, is repairable with the tools you have, plus that reamer. Even if its a complete abortion, you can put your quill in your lathe, with the compound dialed in on a known good taper, rebore the quill and then ream to achieve good surface finish. To adjust the depth spec of the taper, you just face the end of the quill off to suit. we're not talking big hacks of material here, its gentle massaging back to spec.

    $135 bucks...damn, id make one before I went that route...

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyd View Post
    MT2 reamer sets can be had for 24 bucks and up on ebay right now. Thats where I acquired mine and it works a treat.

    I was in the exact same position as OP, very good quality 260 for peanuts and otherwise damn near flawless apart from a tailstock quill that had seen some spinning arbors in its time. It took 10 minutes to give it a tickle with the reamer and it has a substantial improvement in bearing area and the taper is smooth and perfectly serviceable. I didnt want to dig to china in there, youre introducing the possibility of an error of alignment with more material removed. I checked the fit against freshly ground MT2 tapers and it was happy days.

    I cant fathom that people here are encouraging purchasing a $135 replacement part without giving a $24 tool and a few minutes of careful twirling a go first. The quill, even if the bore is pretty damn chewed up, is repairable with the tools you have, plus that reamer. Even if its a complete abortion, you can put your quill in your lathe, with the compound dialed in on a known good taper, rebore the quill and then ream to achieve good surface finish. To adjust the depth spec of the taper, you just face the end of the quill off to suit. we're not talking big hacks of material here, its gentle massaging back to spec.

    $135 bucks...damn, id make one before I went that route...
    Scotty - I appreciate your point of view on this.

    Kryn has offered to loan me a reamer, so this might be my first port of call in this pursuit. I hope I won't need to go so far as reboring the quill afterwards as at the moment this is way beyond my skill level (I probably have about 8 hour's total time on a lathe in my life...) but I'll sure give the hand reamer a go to start with.

    Again, thank you for your advice and wisdom.



    Moz

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Griffith NSW
    Posts
    435

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    I can appreciate that 8 hours isnt exactly a mountain of experience, but all the best learning opportunities are needs driven. The skills youd learn, setting up in a 4 jaw chuck, setting the compound slide, boring a hole and reaming the hole. None of those things are super difficult and all are super useful skills to learn.

    I tell you what, if youre not keen to give it a go, I will. If you cover postage both ways to my place, ill repair your quill. Ill take pics of the process and everyone else can learn with us.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyd View Post
    I can appreciate that 8 hours isnt exactly a mountain of experience, but all the best learning opportunities are needs driven. The skills youd learn, setting up in a 4 jaw chuck, setting the compound slide, boring a hole and reaming the hole. None of those things are super difficult and all are super useful skills to learn.

    I tell you what, if youre not keen to give it a go, I will. If you cover postage both ways to my place, ill repair your quill. Ill take pics of the process and everyone else can learn with us.
    Hi Scotty.

    Really appreciate the offer but hey, I'll give it a go - first with reaming, then the drilling/boring route. The way I see it, if I stuff it up too badly, the decision to buy a new quill then makes itself, right?

    And I always did okay with the 'give it a go' approach when learning ACDC Tig welding. Completely different discipline to turning, but as you said, still very much needs based.

    Thanks again for offering to help.



    Kym

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

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    When you've got your tailstock sorted you might want to make one of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfUXDsh9NqU

    I think that will be a project for this weekend for me.
    Chris

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    Hey, nice idea...thanks for sharing!



    Moz

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
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    Update on this for those still awake:

    Did some practise turning on Friday, just turning up a dead centre, with pretty good results. Limited in materials...would like some cold rolled bar but only have (ex aerospace, long story) high quality stainless bar. Probably a sin to be practising with such nice material.

    Chips are lethal!

    Getting an okay finish with a WNMG neg rake insert. Wasn't sure the Hercy would have the grunt to work with this but is seems to cope just fine as long as I don't dial in too deep a cut.

    Keen try try turning a Morse taper but pretty sure stainless would not be the way to go - finish, workability, galling? Who knows, I'm new at this.

    Will post pics later.


    Moz

  13. #28
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    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    88

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    A couple pics of me turning up a centre using some SS bar.

    Nothing spectacular, just learning pics. Have since revisited this - spun the spindle speed up higher and changed the angle from 45 to more like 60 degrees. All good fun, lots of nasty SS chips hanging around like an afro made of razor wire...


    Moz

    Centre 1.jpgCentre 2.jpg

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    4,887

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    60 degrees is what you want.
    Was there a particular reason why you were cutting the taper with the compound set that particular way, you are working very close to the chuck.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    South Australia
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    88

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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    60 degrees is what you want.
    Was there a particular reason why you were cutting the taper with the compound set that particular way, you are working very close to the chuck.

    Yeah, 60 degrees is what I have now, so happy with that.

    Setting the compound that way was a mistake, pipeclay. Just teaching myself, learning as I go. Always very conscious of what is where, but not beyond the occasional cognitive stall, that's for sure. Finished this job, stood, stared, slapped myself, set it up differently (safely).

    Appreciate your concern - I am always open to pointers, very happy to hear any and all tips. Literally no-one else I know has a lathe at the moment so this is between, me, YouTube and you guys.



    Moz

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