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Thread: Bearing noise

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
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    102

    Default Bearing noise

    Hi All,

    Need some advice on a new noise from my Hercus. Over the last couple of times I used it a clicking or chattering sound began to develop and it was kind of difficult to pinpoint but eventually I removed one of the bearing covers and discovered that there is a ball bearing setup on the headstock spindle and part of that seems to be loose which is allowing the balls to make this sound. I have always put oil in the little toilet seat oilers and the other oil holes everywhere on the lathe whenever I first start it up so I dont think I have been lazy in that area but then I dont know how this particular bearing gets oiled so maybe I have been letting it run dry?
    Can anyone shed light on how serious this might be? I also don't fully understand the purpose of this bearing because it seems to be taking a horizontal load?
    Hope its not too serious!!


    The middle ring which covers the balls is quite loose.

  2. #2
    Tiptoeturtle Guest

    Default

    http://www.woodworkforums.com/showthread.php?t=169007

    There is more information like this if you care to hunt around using the forum "Search" function to be seen in the top right hand corner of the screen.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    4,887

    Default

    First check how much longitudinal movement you have in your spindle.

    Place an indicator on the face of your chuck or other item attached to the spindle,then place a piece of hard wood or steel bar between the back of what's on your spindle and the front bearing,give this a push and see what reading you get on the indicator,should not be more than .001/.0015".

    If it is greater than this then the spindle needs to be adjusted if possible.

    At the gear train end of the spindle there will be a round nut with a locking screw, this is the take up nut for spindle free play.

    If you loosen the locking screw you will be able to tighten the round nut,it may not have to move much to take up any play.

    If you tighten the nut too much the spindle may be hard to turn by hand.

    After you have tightened the nut and relocated it with the screw run the lathe for around 5 minutes and check how hot the rear bearing is,if it is too hot to touch then the take up nut is probably to tight.

    The bearing should get warm but not hot.

    You may find that the bearing heats up in less than 5 minutes, run the spindle in either top speed or 2nd top for this test.

    In regards to the thrust bearing oiling it will not present a problem as long as you don't drown it,if you use to much oil it may fling onto your drive belts or pully.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
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    Default

    Thankyou pipeclay for taking the time to explain that. I will have a look this evening when I got home from work and see what the result is. At least by hand the spindle feels very tight I cannot wobble it whatsoever but I never thought about end play.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    102

    Default

    OK so I did play with the adjustment as per pipeclay's instructions, and certainly taking up a small fraction of play has quietened down the bearing chatter to almost nil, but I do still suspect the bearing unit to be worn because no amount of adjustment will shut them up completely, too much locks up the spindle altogether. At least for now its much better and almost inaudible, and after a good half hour turning down some mild steel the bearings were barely even warm so I think I will just see how it goes. I noticed from my video watching sessions on youtube there seems to be a very popular end bearing replacement (for the original southbend) which involves replacing the hard fiber disc under the locking ring with a spindle bearing set. Anybody done this to their hercus, I assume it fits and works the same?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    eindhoven the netherlands
    Posts
    69

    Default

    i have got both a hercus and a south bend
    they are identical as for what the fiber ring concerns
    so it should work
    problem in europe is the manufacturer of the bearings is in germany/austria and will not sell the bearings in europe

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Thrust bearings of the appropriate size are available on eBay from Taiwan for sensible money - maybe not Swiss engineering but I'm sure good enough.


    Thx
    Jon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
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    102

    Default

    OK a bit of an update - I bought a new replacement thrust bearing, and also the fibre disc replacement roller bearing upgrade.

    Only problem now is, I am struggling with the bolts that hold the forward/reverse gears as they prevent the locking ring coming off. Can anyone tell me with certainty what size they are? Not metric, and not SAE, or at least any of the spanners I have. They appear to be between 13-14mm and 1/2 - 9/16 SAE. The smaller spanners wont go on at all, and the larger ones are so loose it will certainly round the nuts. No way possible to get a shifting spanner in there, so I really do need the correct spanner in this case before I can do anything.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    Default

    Is there any reason why you can't undo the nut securing the stud gear and then remove the pivot bolt for the reverse tumbler and remove the complete unit with the 2 32 tooth gears still attached.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Sutherland Shire, Sydney
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    71
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    65

    Default Grip your nuts

    Have a look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AXs_8hetE8

    This is a link to Metrinch sockets and spanners which grip on the flats of a nut, not the corner as in a conventional socket.
    One socket will fit a variety of nuts within a range of 'across the flats A.F' measurements.
    Available from Masters, Blackwoods, RS Components, maybe Repco. There are heaps of listings on Google.

    Alan...

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Default

    Made a blue no need to remove the stud just drop the banjo and all should clear.

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