Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    288

    Default Hercus 260 - Rear splash guard ??

    Guys,
    Not sure I know what the bit Im talking about is called, but I'll call it a "Splash Guard"!

    Ive seen many pictures of the Chinese lathes that have a sheet off maybe 1mm steel bent and formed in such a way as to create a "splash guard" to the back of the lathe.

    My white wall currently has a black mark just to the right of the chuck where cutting fluid as spun off my work and a hole load of swarf in-between said wall and back of lathe. It would also be handy to be able to attach tool holders, drill chucks etc to the right hand side of this "splash guard".

    Are such things readily available for a 260, or do I need to either make a steel one or buy some plywood and start hacking at it???

    Thx
    Jon

    Update:
    I just did a search and found CBA's post of his splash guard that drops over the chuck - I want the steel sheet guard that runs parallel to and behind the bed.

    Thx
    J

  2. #2
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    My Hercus came with this home made rear slash guard.
    My tooling sits on shelf behind the lathe. The shelf is made of 1" SS mesh so things can poke through stand stand upright.

    In the photo you can see the splash lines for the chuck and the work.


    My temporary (now 3 years old) front splash guard is somewhat agricultural.
    I suspend a strip (150 mm wide and about 750 mm long) of clear (now murky) poly carbonate from the roof by a soft ocky strap. At the roof line the ocky hook hangs from a suspended wire that enables me to slide the guard out of the way when I don't need it.
    When I need to use it I place the bottom end of the PC strain inside the drip tray. The stuff spinning off the front hits the guard and dribbles down into the tray.
    This has reminded me to make a half decent one for the front
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Factory & home made versions.

    Jordan
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Thanks Jordan. I like your home made version. I like the vertical back as that would allow a shelf of some description to be added, much akin to Bob's shed wall shelf!

    Question: How tall is your guard and how far back does it go? My sketch is a basic cross section of how I have it in my mind, just not sure how far back it should be or how tall (apologies for the poor sketch, Im in a hotel with work tonight).


    Splash_Guard.jpg


    Thx
    Jon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,410

    Default

    My 1988 Hercus 260 price list lists as follows:
    05HA133 Splash Guard - Short $93.00
    05HA134 Splash Guard - Long $97.00 (ex warehouse plus 20% sales tax if applicable)

    In today's money, that would be almost twice as much. I think it is not too hard to make your own.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    54
    Posts
    825

    Default

    G'day Jon,
    The splash guard on my 260 is not as nice as Jordan's but it does the job.
    It's just a piece of 18mm ply board and I cut a groove in one edge which rests over the lip of the tray and the top just leans against the wall.
    What I like about the ply board is that if I want to hang something up I wack in a screw, if I want to change the layout I just move the screws.
    The other thing to consider is to include some sort of cover for the motor to keep the swarf out, mine's just an appropriately curved piece of 1.2mm sheet screwed to the ply board.
    With regards to a chuck cover, I took the factory one off of mine because I found it just got in the way, I don't have flood cooling so its never really been an issue.
    I do get a bit of a splash trail up the wall after oiling the chuck but to minimise this I spin it up to high revs while holding a newspaper over the chuck for a minute or so to get rid of most of the loose oil.
    Cheers,
    Greg.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,410

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kwijibo99 View Post
    .......With regards to a chuck cover, I took the factory one off of mine because I found it just got in the way, I don't have flood cooling so its never really been an issue......

    .......I do get a bit of a splash trail up the wall after oiling the chuck but to minimise this I spin it up to high revs while holding a newspaper over the chuck for a minute or so to get rid of most of the loose oil........Greg.

    Greg, if you oil the chuck, no guard will protect your face and walls from oil droplets. The trick is not to use oil to lube the chuck. Several alternatives are available:
    - genuine chuck grease. This stuff looks and feels like tar. It is too thick to be flung from the chuck even at high rpm, yet not sticky enough to attract chips. Resists coolant. Unfortunately I have only seen the stuff sold in large tins suitable for industry.
    - dry graphite powder, has to be applied more often but works very well. Probably the best choice for home/hobby lathe use.
    - on smaller chucks, I have used a very thick Molykote product "running-in paste", it works well resists occasional coolant use and last a long time, but is fairly expensive stuff. I have it at hand for work, but I would not spend $50 for a 50g tube if needed just to lube a chuck....

    WRT a chuck cover, when doing small stuff I often look at the workpiece very close up whilst cutting, and would feel bad without having a 6mm perspex between chips/dust and my glasses/face. To me, no chuck cover somehow feels like driving the car without seat belts. It makes me twice as cautious when doing jobs that can only be done with shield removed.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    1,249

    Default

    Hi,

    I have a Hercus made splash guard on my 260ATM. Sometimes it's a bit short, I still get oil etc on the walls. To overcome this I stick up newspaper on the marked area's for next time.
    What I like about the guard though is it covers the electric motor from swarf and oil ect.

    Ben

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    54
    Posts
    825

    Default

    G'day Chris,
    I hear what you're saying with regards to oiling the chuck, I always figured there was a specific product but never really gave it too much thought.

    I strip the jaws then flush the scroll or screws with oil and give it a light blow with the compressor fairly regularly and like to think that the flying oil is also helping flush out the boogoo.

    I haven't thought of trying graphite, next time I strip the chuck completely I might give it a crack.

    As for the chuck cover, I ride my motorbike wearing an open face helmet, and be it feeling the wind or the occasional chip or splash of oil in your face, it's all part of the fun and helps focus your attention, besides, my cook wouldn't recognise me if I didn't come in from the shed smelling of eu de lubricant.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  10. #10
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cba_melbourne View Post
    WRT a chuck cover, when doing small stuff I often look at the workpiece very close up whilst cutting, and would feel bad without having a 6mm perspex between chips/dust and my glasses/face. To me, no chuck cover somehow feels like driving the car without seat belts. It makes me twice as cautious when doing jobs that can only be done with shield removed.
    In cases like these a 1mm thick polycarbonate (PC) face shield like these are cheap insurance. Unlike perspex, PC won't shatter and the 3D curvature of these shields makes then especially strong and protective of the neck throat are as well. I wear one of these for all my metal and wood working activities.

    I was fortunate enough to be wearing such a shield while using a machine when a 20 mm brass plumbing pipe end cap attached to the machine came loose and landed on a rotating part moving at about 60 mph and hit me fair between the eyes. I got a couple of black eyes out it but it could have been a lot

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ventureoverland View Post
    Question: How tall is your guard and how far back does it go? My sketch is a basic cross section of how I have it in my mind, just not sure how far back it should be or how tall
    Hi Jon.
    Your drawing shows a different shape to the edge of the tray from mine, which just has angled turn-ups around the edges.
    My drawing shows dimensions of the guard itself - approximate but pretty close.

    Jordan
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Northern Beaches, NSW
    Posts
    288

    Default

    Thanks Jordan,
    Thats great. Gives me a good idea on general sizes requirements and definitely a good starting point.

    Unfortunately I need to work this Christmas so won't get to it this year now, but defo food for thought and gives me something to think about between now and then

    Cheers
    J

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kwijibo99 View Post
    The other thing to consider is to include some sort of cover for the motor to keep the swarf out
    Hi Greg,
    I did consider it, but decided against because it's not so important with TEFC motors.

    Jordan

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cba_melbourne View Post
    - dry graphite powder, has to be applied more often but works very well. Probably the best choice for home/hobby lathe use.
    Great idea to lubricate chucks. I've always got some graphite powder.

    Jordan

Similar Threads

  1. hercus 260 splash guard
    By jack620 in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 6th Sep 2011, 03:42 PM
  2. Hercus Change Gear Guard
    By pipeclay in forum THE HERCUS AREA
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 2nd Sep 2008, 03:36 PM
  3. Hercus lathe, a splash of paint
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 23rd Dec 2007, 11:43 PM
  4. Hercus fibreglass guard repair?
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 22nd Nov 2007, 10:08 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •