Thread: 22" Camelback Drill press

Outstanding Ewan, love the colour as well.
A tip when machining small taper pins like that.
I chuck the stock and drill and use a centre for the tailstock.
I then undercut the stock at the small end for the tool entry. This way I can machine the whole taper pin with end support.
When finished, I just cut off the excess and use a file for the deformation chamfer.

Phil

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Ueee,
That drill sure cleaned nicely,did you use electrolysis or just a lot of hand work. The gears look really clean,almost like new. Great work a credit to you.Looking forward to seeing it operating.
Bob

Hi Bob,
All the smaller parts were just cleaned/ striped in a weak caustic bath. I have found this to be easier and more consistent than electrolysis. At 1/4 strength it is fairly safe, i still don gloves, a mask and have a bottle of vinegar handy when using it (and make sure the kids can't get to it!) but if you get splashed it is no big deal, it doesn't burn just makes you feel "slimy". The main casting was easily striped back to the primer with a paint scraper, then i just gave it a sand and a good clean with turps before painting. All the moving parts were soaked and scrubbed in diesel. I put the pulleys on the lathe and wire brushed/scotch brighted them.

The pulleys and belt is on now, i think i may need to shorten it though, we'll see. I don't really know just how tight it will need to be. The 4 main bronze bearings have a slot machined in them for 3/4 of the length that has a felt in it to regulate the oil supply. Just need to put a second coat on the rest of the parts and put it all back together. I do need to re-wire it as well as the old insulation is all crumbling off.

Thanks for the tip Phil. Any longer and the pin would have needed support for sure. Having the TTA and being able to use the feed makes a huge difference in what you can cut over hand feeding the compound though. There is no way i could have done it unsupported without the feed! Oddly enough your suggestion is exactly what i was suggesting yesterday in the thread on the main MW forum, didn't occur to me to use it for taper pins though.

Ew

Ew,
Thanks for the information on your cleaning methods, the drill rebuild looks as good as new. That fine feed and gearbox are a work of art as well,encased in a housing filled with oil they should last forever. One of the better designed drills,it is interesting looking at how this style of drill has evolved over all the years they have been around. Looking forward to your progress and seeing it drilling.
Bob

Beautiful restoration job!
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder!

Well the drill is finally up and running.

I mentioned in one of Deans threads about the wooden dowels in the motor

DSCN2349 (Large).jpg

I still have to get a few of the guards finished and then sort out some guarding for the belts.

DSCN2353 (Large).jpg

This is a piddly 19mm hole with no pilot, i have since pushed a 1" with no worries.

DSCN2354 (Large).jpg

I have found the feeds to be a bit on the fast side, i have not measured them yet but i have only used the slowest for any serious work. Unlike Stuarts mine seems to be pretty quiet, even going flat out. Maybe your bevel gears are somewhat worn Stu?

Cheers,
Ew

Ueee,
Thanks for the update, the drill looks really good you have done a nice job on the cleanup. I have seen old motors with wooden dowels in them before. We used to buy old burnt out motors and reclaim the copper for a non ferrous foundry that we owned back in 1960-1980 and our local scrap dealer dealer would have a big bonfire when the collection was big enough. Where did you source the leather belt from,I am quite a fair time away from needing one but it is nice knowing where to source parts. The curls on your drilling look pretty tight for low speed don't they?
Bob

Hi Ew,

I have come come across an old Hercus drill that I plan on restoring as well. I have no experience in stripping paint off machinery, but you mentioned a weak caustic bath? What are the ingredients you used, measurements and any tips, particularly given it is so big etc. Any advice would help greatly.

Regards,
Raymond

Really nice job Ew.....Now when did you say you were delivering it to my shed????

Originally Posted by woodlogic

Hi Ew,

I have come come across an old Hercus drill that I plan on restoring as well. I have no experience in stripping paint off machinery, but you mentioned a weak caustic bath? What are the ingredients you used, measurements and any tips, particularly given it is so big etc. Any advice would help greatly.

Regards,
Raymond

Hi Raymond,
For the Hercus i put every part i wanted to strip in the caustic, except for the main casting. It is a little big.....
I use a 50l tub from bunnings, and 1/4 the recommended amount of caustic. Leave stuff for a day, then give it a scrub with a washing up brush to remove the stubborn stuff and let it go another day. There is no need to de-grease first the caustic will take care of that. As for the main casting i took to it with a paint scraper and then washed it down with turps, then sanded what was left.
The biggest think to remember with these drills is that they have a weight in the column to counterbalance the quill. Getting it back in was one of the hardest things to do i found.

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by krisfarm

Ueee,
Thanks for the update, the drill looks really good you have done a nice job on the cleanup. I have seen old motors with wooden dowels in them before. We used to buy old burnt out motors and reclaim the copper for a non ferrous foundry that we owned back in 1960-1980 and our local scrap dealer dealer would have a big bonfire when the collection was big enough. Where did you source the leather belt from,I am quite a fair time away from needing one but it is nice knowing where to source parts. The curls on your drilling look pretty tight for low speed don't they?
Bob

Hi Bob,
Sorry i did not reply earlier. The belt is modern rubber stuff with a reinforced core, i can get it from my local engineers supplies place.

Ew

with the caustic,ive used it for many years ... it works better if you can keep the solutionwarm . Ive got one of those immersable heating elements , they use them in farm dairysfor steralizing stuff .

What is the caustic product/brand you guys recommend?

Originally Posted by Ueee

Hi Raymond,
For the Hercus i put every part i wanted to strip in the caustic, except for the main casting. It is a little big.....
I use a 50l tub from bunnings, and 1/4 the recommended amount of caustic. Leave stuff for a day, then give it a scrub with a washing up brush to remove the stubborn stuff and let it go another day. There is no need to de-grease first the caustic will take care of that. As for the main casting i took to it with a paint scraper and then washed it down with turps, then sanded what was left.
The biggest think to remember with these drills is that they have a weight in the column to counterbalance the quill. Getting it back in was one of the hardest things to do i found.

Cheers,
Ew

Thanks for that, Ew. Also, what length belt did you use? And finally the motor I have is three phase, which I'll need to change over to single. I can't quite read the HP and RPM on it, being so old. What HP and RPM is yours?

I'll check the length. The motor is 2hp 4 pole (1440rpm).

Dsel, i just use the Diggers brand from Bunnies, i would think that caustic soda was caustic soda, no matter the brand. But then again i guess there may be industrial strength etc.

Cheers,
Ew

Originally Posted by Ueee

Dsel, i just use the Diggers brand from Bunnies, i would think that caustic soda was caustic soda, no matter the brand. But then again i guess there may be industrial strength etc.

Cheers,
Ew

I think you can buy in the laundry isle of the supermarket for washing clothes. So my guess is some would be stronger than others.