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  1. #31
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    The belt length here is 3440mm, but i would run a tape around first to check. Over any of my pulleys with the tape at a stretch it reads 3500 or so.

    I actually stumbled across the invoice from the belt yesterday, it cost me about $70.

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  2. #32
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    Having had the drill apart and seen what it is made off...... What do you think it is worth both in $$ and useability. What do you think is the going rate for one??
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  3. #33
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    I think what i paid was fair, $450 i think? Mine, although dirty, was 99% complete (1 broken oiler) and only had 2 minor marks in the table from careless operators.
    It is a little slow, but otherwise more than capable and very nice to use. The counterbalance on the quill does not make it return like on a normal drill press, but rather makes it weightless, giving it a surprising amount of feel. The only thing i have found is it has 2 speeds, flat out or flat out and in back gear....

    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Default Taper pins

    Hi Ew,

    After sometime being consumed with other projects I've just about finished restoring my Hercus Drill. The only problem is I have a broken taper pin that is placed in the handle of the rising table. I was wondering if you happen to have any spare pins that you'd be keen to sell? Also, what oil or grease did you use throughout? I've read other posts regarding Hercus lathes, but curious what to use for the drill?

    Regards,
    Raymond




    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    Hi Bob,
    All the smaller parts were just cleaned/ striped in a weak caustic bath. I have found this to be easier and more consistent than electrolysis. At 1/4 strength it is fairly safe, i still don gloves, a mask and have a bottle of vinegar handy when using it (and make sure the kids can't get to it!) but if you get splashed it is no big deal, it doesn't burn just makes you feel "slimy". The main casting was easily striped back to the primer with a paint scraper, then i just gave it a sand and a good clean with turps before painting. All the moving parts were soaked and scrubbed in diesel. I put the pulleys on the lathe and wire brushed/scotch brighted them.

    The pulleys and belt is on now, i think i may need to shorten it though, we'll see. I don't really know just how tight it will need to be. The 4 main bronze bearings have a slot machined in them for 3/4 of the length that has a felt in it to regulate the oil supply. Just need to put a second coat on the rest of the parts and put it all back together. I do need to re-wire it as well as the old insulation is all crumbling off.

    Thanks for the tip Phil. Any longer and the pin would have needed support for sure. Having the TTA and being able to use the feed makes a huge difference in what you can cut over hand feeding the compound though. There is no way i could have done it unsupported without the feed! Oddly enough your suggestion is exactly what i was suggesting yesterday in the thread on the main MW forum, didn't occur to me to use it for taper pins though.

    Ew

  5. #35
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    Nov 2008
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Hi.
    I have a box of taper pins here (ferny Hills) you are welcome to drop by and grab what you need.
    Jim.
    0421 318570.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    Adelaide
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    Default Dismantle assitance

    Quote Originally Posted by Ueee View Post
    2 Large

    The drill is pretty well stripped bare now.

    All the gears are in top shape, no damage to be seen anywhere.

    Attachment 307919

    The gearbox shifter uses an interesting method to engage each gear. The gears are always in mesh. The driving shaft is keyed to the driven gear, and then has a short spring loaded key. By sliding the shaft the small sprung key engages with a keyway in one of the 3 gears.

    Attachment 307918

    Pics at various stages of dis-assembly

    Attachment 307916Attachment 307913

    I had to use the quill to drive the power feed take off gear off the bevel gear.....

    Attachment 307915

    The table looks really good, no chain drilling here!

    Attachment 307914

    The gantry crane is becoming really useful

    Attachment 307912Attachment 307911Attachment 307909

    The counter weight for the quill return is bigger than i expected

    Attachment 307910

    These are the nifty little oilers all over it, unfortunately one has been broken off at some stage. Shouldn't be to hard to make a replacement that looks something like right....

    Attachment 307917

    Thats all for now,

    Ew
    Hi, thanks for the help you have shown in your dismantling.
    Before you pressed out the power feed take off gear off the bevel gear, reference https://metalworkforums.com/attachme...5&d=1395318500, did you have a screw in there that locked the two together, the screw in mine seems to be very stubborn to remove.

    Thanks
    Paul

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