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Thread: Bearings

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Adelaide,South Australia
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    Default Bearings

    Hello all,

    I need help with my number 9 Cylindrical
    grinder head bearings.
    When I grind a shaft with any cut more than .0005 the wheel appears to
    bounce away from the work and leave sort of stippled pattern, if I take a small cut and then let
    it completely gring out the finish is not too bad looking.
    I have removed the spindle and bearings and wondered if anyone has experience
    fitting new bearings to a work head. The old bearings are in pairs and are 6206 and 6205 deep groove races
    which I'm not sure are original, I was expecting to find angular contact type bearins.
    The set up includes 2 sleaves which are spring loaded apart and which I guess would apply
    a degree of pre-load to the bearings.
    I have included some images
    Any help would be much appreciated.

    Nick

    IMG_6053.jpgIMG_6054.jpg

  2. #2
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    Default Bearings

    I priced precision bearings which are angular contact type in matched pairs,
    when I got up off the floor ($740.80) I bought 4 good quality deep groove
    sealed ball races ($60)
    They are now in the machine and the results are excellent, a very good finish and no mottleing,

    Nick.

  3. #3
    Ueee's Avatar
    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Default

    Hi Nick,
    Glad to hear you have sorted it out. You may know already but wheel dressing has a huge effect on the finish and how the machine cuts, as does using an appropriate wheel.
    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  4. #4
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    Default bearings

    Hi EW,
    Thanks for the reply.
    What you say is what I have found and I think I was using a soft wheel and
    testing it on mild steel. when I tried the same wheel on some high carbon steel
    the finish was much better.
    I ground up a motor cycle crank pin and I'm over the moon with the results, just
    what I was hoping for

    Cheers, Nick
    IMG_6055.jpg

  5. #5
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    The crankpin looks good. Did you case harden it?

    Jordan

  6. #6
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    That finish looks nice, what sort of wheel is it? I'm not sure how surface grinding correlates to cyl grinding but i find 38A46J or K (38A=grit type, 46=grit size, J,K= hardness) wheels are good all rounders, they do ok on mild steel and can leave a real nice finish on hard steel. You may find a freshly dressed wheel has too much "bite" for finishing cuts, i find you need to do some rough grinding first and then the wheel will start to leave the best finish. Running a block of pine or some soft timber on the wheel after dressing is also a good idea, it will remove any loose bits of grit that can leave scratches.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

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