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Thread: hercus t-slotted crosslide
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1st Jul 2016, 03:51 PM #46australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
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- Holbrook, NSW
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- 73
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Finally under way.There is a small batch of 20 being cast at the moment. The final cost is $390 plus postage. All of this run has been allocated to people by the date they placed their order. If anyone else wants to place an order, I will see if the casting run can be increased but you have to act within a couple of days. You will be required to pay 1/2 deposit to help offset my costs once I confirm things with the foundry.
Mal
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6th Jul 2016, 08:44 PM #47australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
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- Holbrook, NSW
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- 73
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- 490
I have increased the casting run to 30, they should be back from the foundry in 2-3 weeks.
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7th Jul 2016, 08:00 AM #48Senior Member
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- Jan 2010
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- Perth
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- 119
Great news. Thanks for seeing this through Mal.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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24th Aug 2016, 12:19 PM #49australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
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- Holbrook, NSW
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- 73
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- 490
Sorry to all those who placed their deposits, still waiting on the iron foundry to finish the castings. Hopefully they'll pull their finger out soon and get on with it. It's been a long wait, all your deposits are being held intact pending the foundry invoice, I will be happy to refund the deposit of anyone who can't afford to wait
Can't wait for this to be finished, It's holding up a pile of projects I want to get on with. Whatever happened to service and honoured delivery times.
Mal
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1st Sep 2016, 06:37 PM #50australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
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- Holbrook, NSW
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- 73
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- 490
Just had a call from the foundry, should be able to pick up the castings next week.
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6th Nov 2016, 10:38 AM #51australian metalworking hobbyist
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Holbrook, NSW
- Age
- 73
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- 490
A few photos of the progress so far, still a few more weeks to finish though. Excuse the quality of the photos. The dovetails are currently being machined, the t-slots are next. Still have the jib screw threads, dial groove and final top and bottom grinding to do.
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13th Feb 2017, 12:43 AM #52australian metalworking hobbyist
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Holbrook, NSW
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 490
The final post before I start delivering these in order of the oldest requested. Only 2 completed so far but hopefully the others won't be far behind. This is the finished look.
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13th Feb 2017, 08:01 AM #53Senior Member
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- Jan 2012
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- Hinchinbrook
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- 112
Oooh they look nice
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22nd Feb 2017, 05:51 PM #54New Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2017
- Location
- Congewai
- Posts
- 1
Hi
I would like to order a T-slotted crosslide for a hercus 260 ATM19926 IF I AM NOT TO LATE, Please let me know how you would like me to make payment.
Best wishes
Colen Clenton
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22nd Feb 2017, 06:39 PM #55australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
- Location
- Holbrook, NSW
- Age
- 73
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- 490
Not taking anymore orders through the forum. All the remaining slides, after the prepaid orders have been filled, will be offered through the website in the normal fashion. There may be 10 or so left over but only half are for the 260, the rest are for the 9" models.
Mal
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12th Mar 2017, 11:34 AM #56australian metalworking hobbyist
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Holbrook, NSW
- Age
- 73
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- 490
I know "elementary my dear Watson."
do's and don'ts for the t-slots
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12th Mar 2017, 01:25 PM #57Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
I follow some of the drawing, Mal.
But, could we have some text explanation too, please?
It's not clear to me the need for the nut above the T slot, for example.
I must have missed that class.
Jordan
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12th Mar 2017, 02:32 PM #58australian metalworking hobbyist
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- Jan 2009
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- Holbrook, NSW
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- 73
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- 490
Although I never claimed to be a machinist, it seems to me that if you hold a flat piece of cast iron between two flat surfaces, the chances of it flexing becomes zero. The shearing forces to tear a slot vertically supported like that would be enormous. Most people would have more sense than to do the wrong thing, I just wanted to cover all bases.
Does anyone else not understand what is shown in the pdf.
Mal
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12th Mar 2017, 06:48 PM #59Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
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- sydney ( st marys )
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- 64
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- 4,887
The theory behind the sandwhich nut and small plate or flange nut has merit on reasonably thin tee slots,another way to transfer the load on the tee slot would be to use a longer than normal tee nut,in this instance a nut around 1 1/2" / 38mm would be good.
After all the holding stud is only going to be about 3/8" / 10 mm.
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12th Mar 2017, 09:40 PM #60Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
Sorry, but I still don't follow what's being presented.
May I ask some basic questions?
- What does the L -shaped piece in the first example represent? Is it the job, or a clamping piece?
- I understand a long T-nut would spread the load on the slot flanges, but what is the hex nut on top of the table doing, immediately above the T slot?
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