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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    7

    Default Weight of Hercus AR

    I am not completely happy with a counter offer price of $1500 from the seller, however, I now have a chance of getting the Hercus AR lathe. I kind of like the looks of the lathe. It also looks like in a very good condition.
    I want to know today is the weight of the lathe. Is it manageable to load into back of SUV by me and the seller? Is it possible to remove parts to make it lighter by me who is completely new to metal working lathe? The lathe is a motor behind the body type and I little worry about the base of motor could be fragile and could break while in transporting. A good thing is the seller's house is only five minutes away from my place.
    The seller has inherited the lathe from his father and he is not knowledgeable with the lathe.
    All small items seem to be kept unorganized way. Since I don't want to look for and purchase parts later, I want to make sure I have got everything came with or bought for the lathe. How many loose gears should I have? Someone mentioned me at HMEM site about a 4-jaw chuck, however, I don't remember seeing one at his place. It must be expensive. I know from woodworking scroll chucks. Even those cost almost $300 each.
    Are there any thing Hercus specific items I need to know and I should make sure I get with the lathe? If you could give me some advice on these, I would appreciate.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    Weight will be around the 200kg mark.

    The motor could be removed for ease of transport.

    Generally you would remove the Tailstock for transport ,just in case it came loose and fell off. Being in an SUV and contained it shouldn't be a problem as long as it is locked by the lever at the rear of the Tailstock to the bed.

    Normally you would also lock the carriage to the bed by the squared headed screw on the top right side of the carriage.

    If it is going to be man handled and not picked by an engine hoist or similar 3 people would be the preferred method,2 at the Headstock end and 1 at the Tailstock.

    In regards to what might come with it ,without some photos of the associated tooling it is hard to say, if you can get a few photos of the tooling around or near it, it would make it easier to say what belongs.

    In regards to change gears standard would be a 20,40 and 56 with an 80 idler.

    If there are other gears they could be for cutting Metric threads, if possible grab any loose gears that are with it.

    Tooling that may be with it as standard could include a fixed steady, travelling steady, face plate, drive plate, dead centre for tailstock and 1 for the headstock drill chuck and live centre for tailstock as well as a 3 jaw and 4 jaw chuck.

    With the 4 jaw chuck if its there the jaws are reversible with the 3 jaw you would need an extra set of jaws to make it reversible (make sure these are there).

    As said earlier most Southbend parts will interchange if you need to get something.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    257

    Default

    There are a number of ways to break the lathe down to into bite size pieces and make it easier to move.

    You can remove the tail stock very easily. Slides off the end of the ways.

    The motor can be separated from the lathe to reduce weight more, and the motor mounting bracket also. Again, easy to remove.

    In addition the headstock can be removed by accessing the two bolts that hold the headstock on which are located on the underside of the headstock between the ways. I used a 15mm open end spanner (left hand side) and a ratchet with 3" socket extension to remove the right hand (tail stock side) bolt (but they are imperial bolts, but something like 19/32").

    In my opinion, if access to the lathe is easy and likewise at your end, two guys would easily lift the bed, gearbox, apron and cross slide. But even these are easy to get off. But if you were careful not to bend or damage the lead screw, you could leave these on for transport.

    Moving these size lathes isn't quite the ordeal of a much bigger lathe. I think you'll be surprised how easily it is done. Just be smart.

    It's a pity you can't get it cheaper. For that price I'd still be seriously considering a new chinese model, even though I am enjoying my hercus. I'd also be grabbing everything that even looked like it "might" go with the lathe. Morse taper drill bits, cutting tooling, drill chucks etc. These all cost money to purchase in addition, and adding these onto your $1500 (I'm more talking about drill chucks, fixed and travelling steadies, tool holders). Buying these as separate items will push you well onto $2000 in short order - which is where buying a chinese lathe with all these bits already starts to look more appealing.

    Also factor in the chance that there may be back gear or cone pulley gear teeth broken, and/or worn cross slide nuts and half nuts. Just make sure the condition of the lathe is what you really think the condition is. Check all these things if possible.

    Good luck, but I'd try to knock him down further.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    7

    Default

    Hi pipeclay
    Thank you for very throughout explanation of what I should look for.
    Since I am also turner I can understand the most of lathe termiologies except one thing.
    What is the drive plate?

    Hello Hornetv
    Thank you for remainding me about what I should watch out before my final decision.
    I might get a Chinese lathe after all. I told the seller I cannot pay more than $1000 for the lathe (plus $200 for the Japanese drill press) and I have to make sure nothing is missing from the lathe package before I commit.
    He hasn't yet responded. I think he is probably seeking someone else might purchase at higher price.

    I am a little regretting about I said I would buy the drill press. I'd rather save money toward a milling machine since I have a DP although it is not a industrial grade.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Vancouver BC Canada
    Posts
    7

    Default

    I got a mail from the seller saying $1500 Ono.
    I decided not to buy.
    Thank you for inputting your thoughts.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    If you buy a South Bend 9A instead, it's a good idea (also with Hercus, Boxford, etc) to remove the saddle and clean out the clutch reservoir, which is prone to clogging up with swarf.
    The symptom is that it does not want to accept oil from the lubricator.
    SB/Hercus 9 inch is manageable to move by one reasonably fit person, if he is prepared to remove the headstock as well. Then the bare bed can be lifted easily enough. If it's a rare extra long bed, that might not be so easy! The prismatic bedways mean that headstock alignment must be correct if undamaged and clean when reassembled.

    Jordan

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