Thread: Sheraton Model AM Spindle removal?

Hi,

Just wondering what the procedure is for removing the spindle from a Sheraton Model AM lathe, it runs a roller bearing spindle.

I have a missing belt, I was considering putting one of the fenner style belts on but have since found a suitable belt in my pile of useful junk. I would like to get it running asap if possible.

If it's not too difficult and won't upset the acccuracy I might give it a go, but would like to know what is involved before I dive into it.

I have already removed the chuck, which came off with little effort.

What are you thoughts, if I pull it apart then I can inspect and clean the bearings, regrease them etc. There is some surface rust showing on the pulleys so I can give all that a good clean.

Will it just be a matter of pulling it apart and putting it back together or will some adjustment be needed.

Keep in mind this is my first lathe so my knowledge is limited at the moment but am willing to learn.

Thanks

All I did was to remove the spindle assembly, leaving the outer races intact, clean the bearings and replace. From memory, the inner bearing needed to be gently tapped back to get the correct setting as the fit was very neat. This might be just an isolated case, but to get the correct bearing preload required more than just tightening the spindle nut.
Thankfully I found my bearings to be OK, the dot identified them as a Timken class 3 type bearing. Very expensive to replace!
Hope this helps,
Peter

So it's a matter of removing the set screws from the pulley and the threaded collar at the back of the spindle. Then remove the front and back bearing retaining plates and it should all come out? I take it the spindle comes through the tailstock end?

I have a problem with the back gear being always engaged, the pin is all the way out, I think there is a keyway in there that is stoping the gear from disengaging. So hopefully by removing the spindle I can sold this issue.

The method you suggested is correct "in theory". The keyway should only engage the bull gear. The pulley set may have been deprived of lubrication and seized on the spindle. Suggest a good soaking of wd40 or similar to free up prior to trying to remove.
Best of luck.
Peter

Is it a neccessity to remove that rear threaded collar? I am having trouble getting it undone. I have put a heap of wd40 on there for now, will see if that helps.

Ok got that rear threaded collar off finally.

Now need to work out how to get the rest out. Should the back gears assembly be removed?

When you did your sheraton did you pull the whole spindle and pulley assembly out completly or just enough so you could clean the bearings?

By the way is there a manual/parts manual for these lathes?

Looks like you are winning! Yes, the spindle should come out quite easily. The resistance will be the fit on the bull gear and the inner bearings. I think I used a copper faced mallet without much problem. Hopefully, the pulley will be free to move.
Personally, I would remove the back gear first and give the shaft a good clean and replace later.
I don't know of any manual or parts lists for the 9".
I have info on the 10" Conquest, but this is a gearbox version and the headstock and bearings are completely different.
Peter

Yeah I will attempt to remove the back gear now, it needs to come off anyway as it has a few teeth missing. I will attempt to repair that unless I can find another.

You have a few choices with the Backgear,you can braze the damaged area and recut or file the teeth,you can put small pins into the Backgear where the missing teeth are and then fit replacement tooth blocks to the pins,you can get the old gear teeth removed from the Backgear and get a new ring gear fitted to either the large or small gear for around $60,or you could probably fit a Hercus Backgear in its place.

I think I might give the brazing method a go, it will be good practice as I have never done any brazing before.

I have 4 teeth missing on the small gear of the back gear and 3 of them are next to each other.

So do I just drill holes in the gear and fit some mild steel rod? I'm guessing maybe 3mm rod would do the job. Then braze over the area and file back?

Ended up getting the spindle assembly out today, yesterday I tried with a rubber mallet and block of wood and apart from making a lot of noise it didn't budge, I gave up after a few minutes.

Plan B:

I decided to make up a puller, cut up a bit of plate to the same shape as the rear bearing retainer and tranfered the holes etc. I then welded on two nuts and used some all thread to attach to parts of my puller kit.

Well I guess you would call it a pusher not a puller. It worked with ease. Ignore the two additional nuts after the puller, don't know why I put them there for.

Neat. Very neat.

You have 4 holes holding the bearing retainer in the Sheraton --

I wonder if the 3 in the Hercus would be enough?

I couldn't see a problem as long as the holes are equally spaced.

Hi

Interesting reading . I have a Model AR Sheraton . It survived many years of abuse at the local tech. school where juvenile misfits did their best to destroy it . And some abuse in my hands I might add ! But it soldiers on .

What does AM mean. I thought AR = roller bearing model A

re: the broken back gear teeth. I had one and I welded a blob of mig weld onto the broken stub, filed it down and it's been working OK , but with a decided clank each time the rebuilt tooth engages! Without a gear cutter its nigh on impossible to get the correct shape with a hand file.

I did a TAFE course last year .... even made a tiny 32 tooth brass gear for the thread dial .... on their swisho milling machine

Mike in Gippsland