Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 16
Thread: clutch for lathe motor
-
19th Jan 2011, 07:51 AM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Captains Flat
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 122
clutch for lathe motor
Has anyone worked out a way to avoid turning lathe motor on and off when doing fiddly stuff so that I don't overheat the motor? At present I have a handle on the hinged motor mounting plate that just slackens off the main drive belt..it works but is clumsy. It would be nice to have some sort of engineered solution like a friction clutch on the counter shaft or something.
David
-
19th Jan 2011, 08:48 AM #2.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Not Hercus but Myford
David,
If the lathe you have is a 9" with the overhead countershaft, a clutch similar to that fitted to some ML7's might be an option.
Turns out that there was an article about making an ML7 clutch in the Model Engineer's Workshop magazine of June/July 1991. It might be adaptable to suit a Hercus. Another option may be a small motorcycle clutch.
Bob.
-
19th Jan 2011, 09:09 AM #3.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Mew
I just had a look and found that I have a copy of the magazine. Unfortunately, the "free" pullout drawing of the clutch has been pulled out by the previous owner.
If you think that it may be of any interest to you, I can scan the article and wire you a copy. Let me know.
BT
-
19th Jan 2011, 11:54 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Captains Flat
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 122
article on Myford clutch
thanks Bob. I should have mentioned, my lathe is Hercus ARM with "H" style motor/counter shaft arrangement. It would be great if you could scan article and PM it to me (not sure if that is the right terminology). I have a heap of Model Engineer mags bought on eBay over recent years but not sure I have the one in question and my cataloguing of items of interest is pathetic. I am impressed that you nailed the article so quickly.
-
19th Jan 2011, 12:17 PM #5.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Already scanned
David,
Send me your email address and they will be on their way. Hopefully, someone else might have the pull out drawing available for scanning.
Bob.
-
19th Jan 2011, 12:20 PM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Location
- Captains Flat
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 122
email address
Hi Bob
email is [email protected]
-
19th Jan 2011, 03:23 PM #7Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Blue Mountains
- Posts
- 195
Clutch design scans
YarraD, A copy of the clutch design has been sent to your address above. (also sent to Bob) Regards, Mm.
-
19th Jan 2011, 03:36 PM #8Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
May I also have a copy of the clutch articles, please?
Jordan
[email protected]
-
19th Jan 2011, 04:13 PM #9Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Blue Mountains
- Posts
- 195
Clutch design scans
Hello Jordan, scans sent, would be interested in comments on the design. Mm
-
19th Jan 2011, 04:20 PM #10.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Hello Phillip,
Thank you for the drawings. Did you send Jordan a copy of the MEW article?
If not, I can.
Regards Bob.
-
19th Jan 2011, 05:05 PM #11
Another option might be to fit an automotive air con compressor magnetic clutch at the motor. With these things, the drive pulley free runs on the motor shaft (on ball races) and is drawn to a flywheel fixed to the shaft by an electromagnet (12V about 4A for later models, more for the older clunkers) when you want drive. Transmit about 4 to 5HP safely.
Regardless of how you do it, I would be inclined to include some form of mechanical brake as well to ensure a positive stop.
-
20th Jan 2011, 12:09 AM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2009
- Location
- Blue Mountains
- Posts
- 195
Hello Bob,
I didn't send a copy of the article to Jordan, could you do so please?
I did not even think of it actually
Malb, re the aircon clutch, I have an idea that there was an article in one of the English magazines about doing this, don't know which one or when, perhaps someone else has a better memory or filing system.
Regards, Mm.
-
20th Jan 2011, 12:25 AM #13.
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Perth WA
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 6,458
Hi Phillip,
I wired them to Jordan not long after receiving your drawings. The EM clutch sounds like a neat idea. I downloaded a Japanese clutch manufacturer's catalogue at work today but haven't as yet looked at it.
Regards Bob.
-
20th Jan 2011, 08:30 AM #14Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
I have 2 different sets of articles / drawings from Anorak Bob and Metalman.
Thanks fellas!
Jordan
-
20th Jan 2011, 09:42 AM #15Mechanical Butcher
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- Location
- Southern Highlands NSW
- Posts
- 1,894
I stitched the scans together to one file, to make it easier to see. Will send if requested.
It looks like a nice project. Probably not essential, it's more a luxury option I think, but could make working more pleasant.
Not having drilled any really long holes, that's a bit daunting to me. Can I really expect to come out the other end of a long shaft spot on centre? A trick from motorbike gearboxes is to make the pushrod of more than one piece, and put bearing balls between them. Drill rod with hardened ends would need to be used. Drilling from both ends could be done, and any misalignment compensated for by the multi-part rod.
The fibre thrust washer looks like it'd be the first thing to wear out. Maybe a bronze washer or roller bearing thrust washer could be used instead?
I wonder if the clutch really needs to be lined? A Douglas shaper's clutch is metal on metal - both CI I think - and works fine.
Jordan