Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Captains Flat
    Age
    71
    Posts
    122

    Default clutch for lathe motor

    Has anyone worked out a way to avoid turning lathe motor on and off when doing fiddly stuff so that I don't overheat the motor? At present I have a handle on the hinged motor mounting plate that just slackens off the main drive belt..it works but is clumsy. It would be nice to have some sort of engineered solution like a friction clutch on the counter shaft or something.

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default Not Hercus but Myford

    David,

    If the lathe you have is a 9" with the overhead countershaft, a clutch similar to that fitted to some ML7's might be an option.

    Turns out that there was an article about making an ML7 clutch in the Model Engineer's Workshop magazine of June/July 1991. It might be adaptable to suit a Hercus. Another option may be a small motorcycle clutch.

    Bob.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default Mew

    I just had a look and found that I have a copy of the magazine. Unfortunately, the "free" pullout drawing of the clutch has been pulled out by the previous owner.

    If you think that it may be of any interest to you, I can scan the article and wire you a copy. Let me know.

    BT

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Captains Flat
    Age
    71
    Posts
    122

    Default article on Myford clutch

    thanks Bob. I should have mentioned, my lathe is Hercus ARM with "H" style motor/counter shaft arrangement. It would be great if you could scan article and PM it to me (not sure if that is the right terminology). I have a heap of Model Engineer mags bought on eBay over recent years but not sure I have the one in question and my cataloguing of items of interest is pathetic. I am impressed that you nailed the article so quickly.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default Already scanned

    David,

    Send me your email address and they will be on their way. Hopefully, someone else might have the pull out drawing available for scanning.

    Bob.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Captains Flat
    Age
    71
    Posts
    122

    Default email address

    Hi Bob

    email is [email protected]

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    195

    Default Clutch design scans

    YarraD, A copy of the clutch design has been sent to your address above. (also sent to Bob) Regards, Mm.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    May I also have a copy of the clutch articles, please?

    Jordan

    [email protected]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    195

    Default Clutch design scans

    Hello Jordan, scans sent, would be interested in comments on the design. Mm

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Hello Phillip,

    Thank you for the drawings. Did you send Jordan a copy of the MEW article?
    If not, I can.

    Regards Bob.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    654

    Default

    Another option might be to fit an automotive air con compressor magnetic clutch at the motor. With these things, the drive pulley free runs on the motor shaft (on ball races) and is drawn to a flywheel fixed to the shaft by an electromagnet (12V about 4A for later models, more for the older clunkers) when you want drive. Transmit about 4 to 5HP safely.

    Regardless of how you do it, I would be inclined to include some form of mechanical brake as well to ensure a positive stop.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Blue Mountains
    Posts
    195

    Red face

    Hello Bob,
    I didn't send a copy of the article to Jordan, could you do so please?
    I did not even think of it actually
    Malb, re the aircon clutch, I have an idea that there was an article in one of the English magazines about doing this, don't know which one or when, perhaps someone else has a better memory or filing system.
    Regards, Mm.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

    Default

    Hi Phillip,

    I wired them to Jordan not long after receiving your drawings. The EM clutch sounds like a neat idea. I downloaded a Japanese clutch manufacturer's catalogue at work today but haven't as yet looked at it.

    Regards Bob.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    I have 2 different sets of articles / drawings from Anorak Bob and Metalman.
    Thanks fellas!

    Jordan

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,894

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
    Hello Jordan, scans sent, would be interested in comments on the design. Mm
    I stitched the scans together to one file, to make it easier to see. Will send if requested.
    It looks like a nice project. Probably not essential, it's more a luxury option I think, but could make working more pleasant.
    Not having drilled any really long holes, that's a bit daunting to me. Can I really expect to come out the other end of a long shaft spot on centre? A trick from motorbike gearboxes is to make the pushrod of more than one piece, and put bearing balls between them. Drill rod with hardened ends would need to be used. Drilling from both ends could be done, and any misalignment compensated for by the multi-part rod.
    The fibre thrust washer looks like it'd be the first thing to wear out. Maybe a bronze washer or roller bearing thrust washer could be used instead?
    I wonder if the clutch really needs to be lined? A Douglas shaper's clutch is metal on metal - both CI I think - and works fine.

    Jordan

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •