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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Holbrook, NSW
    Age
    73
    Posts
    490

    Default key

    Quote Originally Posted by mixotricha View Post
    I am about to order up a new spindle and I want to order a new key as well. I see in the Hercus parts manual it is listed as part 5H117. Is this key available or should I just make do with something from elsewhere? I would rather not use the original key since I had to drill a hole in it and tap it to pull it out.
    Sorry, I have plenty of 5H117's, just forgot to list them on the website, which I have now done.
    Mal

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer77 View Post
    The rear spacer has a spring wire in it that locates in the slot in the spindle, it stops it from spinning so if you happen to misalign it when you reassemble it it should just spin in to place and self locate, 9" spindles had a woodruff key in that position and also make sure you have between 3 and 7 thou end float between the pulley and spacer.
    Tinkerer77

    I took my spindle apart on the weekend and some of the spring wire is missing, I have contacted Mal and he is posting 2 out.
    When I get it how do you put it onto the shaft and what is the orientation ?
    I get that you assembly it and put it onto the shaft be how do you get it past the rear bearing seal?

    Thank you, sorry to ask but it is probably safer for me to ask

    Simon

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Hi Simon

    The wire just wraps around the sleeve, it should have enough flexibility to push up into the slot in the spacer as you push it on, the wire should just wrap around once and poke through the hole, I will try and get a photo today for you.

    Steve

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Smythesdale
    Posts
    21

    Default Spring part number.

    I've not ordered up the little spring yet or the replacement bearings. What was the part number for this spring? It might be in my parts tray or jammed in the old spindle.

    I'll get one with my order for the bearings when I do that.

    I was going to come back here when I had the new bearing in hand and ask some more questions about the rebuild. I still have to get the cups out.

    Will those just press out or should I weld the old cups to shrink em?

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    85

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    239

    Default

    As far as getting the old cups out you should be able to just tap them out using a punch and hammer, there isn't much purchase on them and if you knock them out evenly you shouldn't have an issue, 9" ones are the hardest to get out, the spring could still be in the spacer, they normally don't fall out.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    85

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tinkerer77 View Post
    Hi Simon

    The wire just wraps around the sleeve, it should have enough flexibility to push up into the slot in the spacer as you push it on, the wire should just wrap around once and poke through the hole, I will try and get a photo today for you.

    Steve
    Hi Steve, how did you go with the photo, I am struggling to see how the wire goes in, maybe the hole in my sleeve is too tight but if it was loose what holds the wire in place when the spindle is spinning?

    Thankyou

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2021
    Location
    Smythesdale
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Not related to the wire but for future reference the bearing cups are backed by seal cups. Obvious to everyone else apparetly but not to me! I swear that for all the world they looked like part of the casting of the head. Even the texture looked the same. So I was loathe to try and get a punch past them to knock the cups out. They really did look like part of the housing. Realised they were not after I had carefully followed through with my original plan and got one of the cups out by shrinking it with tig welder.

    That took about two hours by the time I was set up and doing it. As opposed to the 5 mins required to just bang the seals out and then bang out the
    cups in the opposite direction ...

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