Thread: 8x5 Tipper Trailer

Originally Posted by Voyager77

I guess I should have started this project by pricing up steel. The cost of the Aussie steel frame alone exceeds the price of a cheap import trailer (not that I want one). Anyone hoping to save money by building a trailer at home from new steel profile is kidding himself but I didn't expect steel prices to be this eye-watering..

I did try Southern Steel too. They were utterly useless - chased them for a week and got a quote with half the items missing and the other half incorrect, delivered with a one-liner email without any explanation. At least one company quoted import steel (supposedly Korean) but their pricing wasn't any better.

Cheers
Frank

i hear you well. southern ed me around to, and my email to them was from my fabrication company, they can SHOVE IT!! i went with econo steel, but they are local to me. mate, you should always price out jobs. and going single axle is not VALUE ADDING to your project. you are designer, procurement, builder, seller. is there a weak link in this chain, well good luck.

imo the hard plate is a waste of money, mild steel is good enough. imo you can still save the financial day with material cut backs. source second hand, use black steel, cut back on on material thickness intelligently.

i get were your at, keep us up dated.

mick

Originally Posted by Voyager77

.... The cost of the Aussie steel frame alone exceeds the price of a cheap import trailer (not that I want one).

8x5 imported tipper cost around 3k , so how does an 8x5 frame using Australian steel cost more ? I built an extra heavy duty single axle 12x5 high side cage rubbish trailer built to carry 3 tons , 3mm everthing , 3mm steel chr plate and the steel only cost $1800. It weighs 650kg.

A mate of mine builds trailers and his 8x5 heavy duty hi rib trailers start at 7k. Most of his customers are commercial who have bought imported trailers that have failed , so they go to him to get a trailer that will last.

Try JP Metal in Windsor , i've used them and they offer good prices and service. I don't go there anymore as too far away. The bloke that runs it also builds trailers , or used to. They sell new trailer parts as well. No affliation.

just keep in mind that aussie steel increased 13% in january 2022 (econo steel). to me thats an absolute huge price jump.

I don't know how you built your trailer or how long ago it was? There's always options to cut cost but I like to do things right. That said, a Hardox bed isn't going to happen. Nobody stocks sheets in Sydney and we're over budget as is.

I checked out JP Metals and prices look good, thanks for that.

Still trying to find a supplier who will bend panels for me.

Cheers
Frank

Originally Posted by Voyager77

I don't know how you built your trailer or how long ago it was ? There's always options to cut cost but I like to do things right.
Cheers
Frank

About 2 years ago and it was built right . Try Hickey's in Penrith for your sheet folds. I've used them for years no problems.

Originally Posted by Iron triangle

About 2 years ago and it was built right.

With an ATM of 3650kg on a single axle in your stated configuration that statement is, um….. questionable.

No that is not what you said, but I’m not in the mood to argue with randoms on the inter webs

The steel has been delivered a couple days ago and I have started cutting frame profiles today. I got two questions for all you fabricators.

What are your thoughts on the blue primer the steel comes with? Last project I went through a lot of trouble grinding it all off and then etch-priming on bare metal. It was time intensive and I'd rather save myself the work if I don't have to. Just don't want the paint to peel off if this blue primer doesn't adhere long term...

Who has experience sealing off profiles vs putting drainage holes into the frame? I think the amount of air moisture that is trapped in the frame at the time of welding is negligible? Its not a boat trailer and I don't intend to submerge it in water. If I deliberately drilled drainage holes, over the lifetime of the trailer, its likely that humid air will enter and condensate when its cooler at night? The inside doesn't have any rust protection and I am worried that drainage holes would only add to the rust problem rather than help it...

Thanks
Frank

The blue paint isn't primer, in my experience it is a poor primer coat and doesn't adhere subsequent finishes particularly well.
I usually remove it, generally by blasting if its commission work or something architectural/sculptural.
I've also had good results using oven cleaner to remove it.
Last couple of times this question has been asked half the responses said remove it, half said leave it on.

I've had several trailers and the recurring theme regardless of how they've been constructed is the floor is generally the first thing to rust out.
If you want to seal it it wont really hurt it. You may have to leave a small 3-4mm hole somewhere to vent the tube when welding then let it cool and weld the hole up to seal it.
You also wont be able to run your cabling down the inside of the chassis if you seal it.

if your going to remove the blue primer, why buy it? its cheaper to buy black steel (non primed) just sayin, .
i used blue primed on my trailer and the used an etch primer and hammer tone paint over the top, so far after six months of it sitting in the paddock, no sign of lifting or rust. i can,t say how long the blue primer will last. i fully weld sealed my chassis rails and flat top upper frame, and every box section. i ran impendent steel electrical conduit, welded to the frame, as nothing inside the frame like many do. i just trying to slow/stop internal frame/rhs rust.

There was no black steel option, at least with the rectangular profile you get a choice of (blue) primed, pregal or hot dip. I suppose they don't like their merchandise rusty and hence it comes with the blue primer to reduce flash rusting.

I did not want to deal with pregal / galvanising on the frame. Its nasty fumes, not easily MIG welded without removing the zinc first and it adds even more cost. That's why I went with the blue option.

Some angle and C channel profiles did come as plain mild steel and I'll be removing mill scale off those.

Cheers
Frank

Time for an update. I have been busy cutting, welding and grinding. The rear bumper / light carrier turned out alright. I think TIG would probably have been more suitable to weld in the bars but I didn't fancy fiddling around with a method that I had never tried before. The lights should be safe but can easily be removed if necessary.


TipperTrailer1.jpgTipperTrailer2.jpgTipperTrailer3.jpgTipperTrailer4.jpg

I have also found a company to cut and bend sheet panels for me. Ended up being 3mm mild steel for the floor and sides. I'll have to buttweld a centre seam because they were unable to make a pan from one giant sheet. I hope this arrives in time...

What is the process of getting a privately build trailer registered? Do I get VIN number and rego from Services NSW? Do I need a pink slip?
(I realise a should know this before starting *blushes*)

Cheers
Frank

Originally Posted by Voyager77

What is the process of getting a privately build trailer registered? Do I get VIN number and rego from Services NSW? Do I need a pink slip?
(I realise a should know this before starting *blushes*)

Cheers
Frank

Given the process changed two weeks ago you may have trouble finding someone with current process experience.
https://metalworkforums.com/f184/t12...ng-regulations

I have finished welding the lower frame meanwhile and have started on the tipper frame. Initially I had planned to build a rotisserie and I do have the material for it. Decided against it because my tipper consisting of two hinged frames, I would be unable to access half the weld seams with them atop each other. Plus if I start assembling the tipper frame on top of a rotisserie suspended frame, it could rotate inadvertently or tip over.

TipperTrailer5.jpgTipperTrailer6.jpg

Space is really constrained in my garage and very soon the project will have to move outside.
Love my new Binzel 24 torch with 5m lead, perfect to move around a 'larger' project.

TipperTrailer7.jpg

Cheers
Frank