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Thread: 3.5T Flat deck trailer build
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1st Jan 2022, 11:20 PM #16Most Valued Member
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Triangular maillon is the weapon of choice. A decent rigging store will have them, or an outdoor place that does mountaineering gear if you want to pay three times as much.
If you wanted to have trailer only straps, cut the loops and keepers off and fit the maillons and chain in its place
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2nd Jan 2022, 10:34 AM #17
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2nd Jan 2022, 10:47 AM #18
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2nd Jan 2022, 01:11 PM #19Most Valued Member
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Cutting list - yes. Rough time estimate - no.
The plans are quite comprehensive. 39 pages in this case which includes everything from the actual drawings, to info such as what the weld symbols mean, order of construction, drawbar alignment and wiring/lighting requirements etc.
There is also a full materials list in spreadsheet format so you can cost it up before starting.
While I'm at it, in regards to support - I emailed them a question after buying the plans and it was answered that day.
FWIW the question was regarding whether it could be constructed as a simple tilt version like their 2500kg model. The answer was basically that it wasn't recommended on a heavy trailer due to the high loads on the rear axle while loading tilted - ie the rear axle takes the full 3500kg.
I'm sure a tilt version could be done, but since I was asking from a "that would be a useful feature if it was as simple as....", he'd answered my question promptly and I thanked him and left it at that.
Steve
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2nd Jan 2022, 01:36 PM #20Most Valued Member
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Hi Steve,
Just another 5 cents worth, you could make it a tilt version without the axles being overloaded, and that is by making small drop down legs just behind the rear spring hanger. I had this on a car trailer I had once. The legs were kept in position by the use of a spring, in an over centre action, both ways.
Can do a sketch of the design if you like/need?
HTH
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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2nd Jan 2022, 05:19 PM #21Most Valued Member
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That makes sense Kryn - I understand how it would work.
I'd love a proper tipper for those times where there's bulk crap to unload, but realistically it would need to be more like a 10x5 size, and I don't really do enough of that sort of work to justify it - and I'd find I'd basically built one that the son-in-law got free use of
Have to admit to severe trailer envy when the bloke next to you pulls up and tips his trailer at the push of a button though.....
I think the beaver tail is still the best option for this build.
Also, to answer your earlier question regarding side rails/combing size - the plans have the same 50x50x3 used for that.
I've considered going a bit taller and perhaps narrower to create an edge rail but think its probably just more work for little benefit.
Steve
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2nd Jan 2022, 06:59 PM #22Most Valued Member
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I think you'll find the next size up from the 50 X 50 is 75 X 25 and only in a thin tube as like 1.6mm.
75X50X2.5 or 3 mm will add a lot of strength to the combing rails. If the bottoms of the cross members and combing rail were level, you'd have a 25mm lip to prevent stuff sliding of the sides, that's how we do ours, with the floor sheet just welded to the cross members, not to the combing rails.
There's really no more work involved, but you'll be gaining a lot of extra strength.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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2nd Jan 2022, 08:29 PM #23
that is a good idea , have you costed it up yet ? you might be shocked at the final overall costs, it adds up quickly, lol . Btw i buy my trailer stuff from Sunrise trailers parts, i've got no affiliation with them but they know there stuff and sell quality gear at a reasonable price if you looking for trailer parts ect.
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2nd Jan 2022, 11:32 PM #24Most Valued Member
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3rd Jan 2022, 12:41 AM #25Diamond Member
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Wow that's a lot of $$$ for a home built trailer, have steel prices gone up or is it mostly the suspension parts that are costly?
What would a similar sort of trailer already built cost?
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3rd Jan 2022, 08:03 AM #26Diamond Member
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3rd Jan 2022, 07:52 PM #27Most Valued Member
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3rd Jan 2022, 09:23 PM #28Diamond Member
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Yeah just had a look at some of the steel prices 50x50 3mm is nearly $150 for an 8 meter length.
Even suspension items on eBay arent cheap, it all adds up.
Seems like covid has really screwed around with the pricing.
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3rd Jan 2022, 11:55 PM #29
Yep its gone up during covid $140 a length here now , a year and half ago i paid for the same length $90. It's cheaper to buy an imported fully galvanised 7x4 box trailer with a cage for $1700 on Ebay than make a painted equivalent from local steel & trailer suppliers .
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17276154...frcectupt=true
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12th Jan 2022, 06:58 PM #30Diamond Member
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Keen to see how you get on with this. I'm planning on upgrading my ute to something overpriced that will pull 3.5t, at which point building a trailer has always been on the cards, and a 2.4 wide deck would certainly come in handy in my line of work where we're moving grape bins and pallets. For those kind of loads, pipe along the sides and ratchet straps are the best option, but I'd also want to move the odd machine where I prefer chains and binders.
I've also tossed up making it a tipper with removable sides, but can't help but think that the extra steel involved would really impact the tare weight...
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