Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 68
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    The boat is pretty wide thats the biggest problem its 2.3 meters wide and 5.7 meters long so trying to reverse it up the driveway wont be possible

    How do i pick a worm drive gearbox? Do i pick one by its rating in newton meters of force there is one on ebay at 302n.m which my v8 ford puts out 400n.m

    If i went the worm drive i would use the jockey wheel mount and weld a pipe onto a plate than bolt that to the worm drive housing

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    To calculate the power requirements to achieve what you are asking requires very lengthy calculations. but I did plug some numbers into an online calculator and came up with the following information.
    Weight of vehicle 2300 Kg.
    Gradient 24% (which is what a 13 degree slope converts to).
    Vehicle speed 2 Kmh.
    Power requirement 3.195 Kw.
    These numbers assume a constant speed, so you would need to allow a bit more grunt in order to start the load moving if you should stop on the slope.
    From here, you could work backwards and based on the size wheels you intend to use and the speed of travel, you can decide the gearbox ratio required, then marry that with a gearbox to suit the motor power required. That steep driveway is the real killer as far as your power requirements.
    link to the calculator is here should you want to play with some numbers. https://www.electromotive.eu/?page_id=12&lang=en
    I still have concerns over loss of traction and the resultant loss of control.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    I worked out the driveway degree using a digital degree gauge with a spirit level but looking at the driveway its probably 1.4 meters in height over 15-18 meters

    Thanks for the kw calculation, all i can go by online is torque as that is all the worm gear drive and motors, the Aussie Wheel Movers go by newton meters of torque so i can maybe compare to their web site

    I found this shop https://www.melbournemachinery.com.au/ which gives max output torque in newton meters but the power in watts/kilowatts doesn't calculate right

    Here is the Aussie Wheel web site https://www.aussiewheel.com.au/?gcli...BoC9u4QAvD_BwE that gives the N.M ratings but there motors are 12volt not 240volt wether that changes anything in output force im not sure

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
    Posts
    1,910

    Default

    Using those numbers for your slope gives a much flatter slope, more like 6 degrees in fact which alters your power requirements greatly.
    Assuming a 2300 Kg rolling load on a 10% slope @ 2Kmh, your power requirement is 1.5Kw (2Hp). Going another step further and assuming a 300mm diameter drive wheel, that wheel would need to turn at 35RPM to achieve the 2Kmh speed and according to The Hardie Spicer Horsepower to torque converter, 300Ft/Lbs (406Nm) would be the torque figure at the wheel, therefore if the gearbox is coupled 1:1 (direct drive) to the wheels, your gearbox will need to withstand 406 Nm output torque, not allowing for any start up torque spikes or other overloads. If the wheels are driven at a 2:1 reduction, that torque requirement will naturally halve.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Thanks heaps karl for the calculation i appreciate it

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North Brisbane. Qld. Australia
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,511

    Default

    Yeah, thanks for the calculations. May need something like this myself if my 6m x 2.4m trailer ever becomes a reality.
    Nev.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    The boat is pretty wide thats the biggest problem its 2.3 meters wide and 5.7 meters long so trying to reverse it up the driveway wont be possible
    What am I missing here?
    Why can’t you back the boat into your back yard?
    If the boat fits when it’s not attached to the car, then it still fits attached to the car.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Details from gearbox I used and photos of underside of trailer mover
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    What am I missing here?
    Why can’t you back the boat into your back yard?
    If the boat fits when it’s not attached to the car, then it still fits attached to the car.
    I had to drive the car front in to get the boat in it hasnt left the yard since and i clipped the drain pipe, using the car reversing in will be a nightmare using a trailer pusher i have much more control over swinging the trailer left or right where as the car will only push it straight back

    Plus once inside the gates i have 10 meters of brick wall along one side

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sparksy View Post
    Details from gearbox I used and photos of underside of trailer mover
    Thanks spark i will check it soon

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Spark how did u attach your wheels to the axle? I plan on using a keyed steel axle so i can make a couple hub/plates and weld those to the shaft than bolt the wheels to those

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Spark how did u attach your wheels to the axle? I plan on using a keyed steel axle so i can make a couple hub/plates and weld those to the shaft than bolt the wheels to those
    Got some taperlock sprockets then welded to the sprocket a 6mm disc drilled to match the original stud pattern of quad bike hubs and taperlocks to suit shaft. Then just machined a keyway in shaft for taperlocks and the internal keyway in hollow shaft gearbox. I dont use this one anymore, put in a parking spot out front for van, a lot easier.
    To join motor to gearbox , machined a stub shaft to take output shaft of motor and the internal hole in gearbox. then welded the collar section once connected.
    That gearbox was a new old stock that had been superseded and originally had another bonfig gearbox on input so a 4 pole 3 phase motor ended up at 1 RPM for a paddle.
    .
    The bearings on the shaft are only there to mount the frame on. They dont support the shaft rather other way around. Running off the KB dc controller it is amazing the torque that the gearbox generates.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    That looks really cool Sparksy im going with a similar design but for my wheel hubs they'll be 8-10mm steel welded to the shaft with 45 degree triangles welded between the wheel bolt holes to the shaft just for added strength, what kind of axle stops did u use to the the axle sliding sideways?

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    168

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    That looks really cool Sparksy im going with a similar design but for my wheel hubs they'll be 8-10mm steel welded to the shaft with 45 degree triangles welded between the wheel bolt holes to the shaft just for added strength, what kind of axle stops did u use to the the axle sliding sideways?
    just the grubscrews on the two bearings, shaft never showed signs of moving.

    interesting one I saw when googling for a mover was one made from a mobility scooter rear axle as it has a differential and internal brake and runs on 24vdc. Went my way only because the bits were scrap at work.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,836

    Default

    Im looking at these three but skeptical of the first one at 456n.m and the drive motor is only .5hp

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133581049411

    2nd and 3rd are the 1.1kw 480n.m and 1.5kw 665n.m from Melbourne Machinery Australia | Home of Geared Motors

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Steel Single cab ute tray to trailer project
    By MasterSpoon in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12th Sep 2020, 05:43 PM
  2. Enclosed trailer build - bought an unfinished project
    By bishboy in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 29th Aug 2017, 11:24 PM
  3. trailer mover
    By franko in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 29th Sep 2009, 01:58 AM
  4. Trailer Repair Project
    By neilb in forum METALWORK GENERAL
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 6th Oct 2007, 09:33 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •