Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default Steel Single cab ute tray to trailer project

    Sso not like I really needed another project but I have made the decision to build a bigger trailer, my box trailer is good but I find its limits every now and again.
    I picked up a used, steel ute tray from a single cab ute that will be modified and turned into a trailer. Building trailers is not my area of expertise so those more knowledgeable feel free to offer guidance.

    I have a fair idea on most of the design but haven't started the build yet or bought my components so nothing is yet set in stone.

    So the requirements
    - Need to keep the floor height low, lifting things on and off the trailer is easier if it's lower. Have seen some ute tray to trailer builds where the floor ends up way to high. To keep the height low this means that I will be recessing the wheel arches into the tray floor, like you see on some utes / one tonners
    - as there will be wheel arches in the tray floor I want to have at least 1,250mm between the arches so can hold pallets, full sheets of material ect
    - single axle only, not uncommon for me to have to move the trailer around the yard manually, sometimes loaded with stuff and single is much easier to turn
    - 1,400kg rating minimum, this should net me about 1,000kg carrying capacity, want to be able to carry most of my machines in it if needed.
    - 1,200mm drawbar

    Components so far
    1,400kg or 1,600kg kit if I can find one
    - 45mm square axle solid, either ford slimline bearings at 1,400kg or Parallel bearings at 1,600kg
    - eye to eye leaf springs
    - hydraulic over ride disc brakes, while electric would be preferred it's likely that others will borrow the trailer so need a generic setup and hydraulic discs seem to be the pick of that category
    - ford hubs, sunraysia rims, running 185r14 LT tyres, 850kg each load rating should net me 1,700kg rating on tyres, keeps diameter down and width down
    - other generic stuff to complete the build, jockey wheel, coupling, LED lights, ect ect

    At the moment the bottom of the tray looks like this
    Attachment 388565

    Basic dimensions that I'm starting with from a quick measure
    Total width - 1,915mm
    Width between rails - 1,830mm
    Total length - 2,385mm
    Headboard to back length - 2,340mm
    Front to back chassis rails are 65x35x3 RHS
    Side to side rails are 50x20x2.5 RHS
    tie rails are 27mm round
    side tray rails 40mm SHS
    Floor is 3mm checkerplate
    front to back rails are spaced 1,060-1,080mm measured outside to outside (not totally parallel)
    side to side rails outside to outside, front to back are 450, 875, 1460, 1895 & 2120

    Plan is something like this
    Ute tray underbody hacked.jpg

    Red - remove old mounts, remove section of 50x25 RHS where wheel needs to go through, remove section of floor for wheel
    Purple - weld in 50x25 RHS to brace around wheel well where section was removed
    Blue - 100x50x4 RHS chassis rails & drawbar, drawbar attached at front spring hanger
    Brown - 65x35x3 RHS laid on its side so it's 65 wide and 35 high.

    Cutout for wheels would be with 255 wide, allowing 185 for wheel / tyre, 3mm each side for sheeting, 30mm gap either side and a couple mm for mismeasurement, should give me just over 1,300mm between the wheel wells.


    From there it should just be fit suspension, brakes, wiring, ect

    I have had a quick look through the build regs but need to check again as I'm sure I read something prior that specified where the wheel had to be in relation to overall loading area, like % in front of axle vs behind. From reading couldn't really see anything that specified frame strength but I'm thinking that should be strong enough, would rather not put in a chassis rail in the centre as more work and would like the option to use it to store a ramp if I decide to build a ramp for it in the future.

    Questions for those more experienced with trailer building
    - Have I missed anything obvious or is this not a good idea?
    - Suggestions on suppliers, probably best to pick up to save on high postage costs, happy to travel within say 2 hours of Toowoomba, so Brisbane, Sunny or Gold coast

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Your ideas are OK. Your chassis rails and drawbar could be made from 3 mm, which would be sufficient, otherwise your trailer will be overloaded before you put anything on it. We use 3 mm for the main frame and draw bars on our trailers.
    The important thing is NOT to weld across the top of the drawbar, along the sides is OK otherwise it will crack. The other important piece of info is to plate between the end of the drawbar and the front spring hanger.
    Placement of the axle is worked out at 10 mm back from centre per foot of trailer, 8' long X 10 mm = 80 mm, so your axle centre would be 80 mm back from centre.
    I'd also put on side clearance lights, as a precaution.
    Here are the contact details for Mullins Wheels/Trailer Parts. Can highly recommend them as they are our main supplier for our trailers/
    Queensland
    14 Success Street
    Acacia Ridge, Qld 4110
    Telephone: (07) 3277 8677
    Facsimile: (07) 3277 0303
    Email: [email protected]
    Hope this helps you. If you need anymore info send me a PM or post it here.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MasterSpoon View Post
    Cutout for wheels would be with 255 wide, allowing 185 for wheel / tyre, 3mm each side for sheeting,
    From reading couldn't really see anything that specified frame strength but I'm thinking that should be strong enough,
    Sorry I should have mentioned this in my earlier post.
    Instead of using 3 mm for the side sheeting of the mudguard, I'd go 1.6 or similar, helps keep the weight down. Make the whole mudguard out of it. It's going to be heavy enough to move on your own as it is. Run some bracing from the bottom corners of the guards, back to the tray, this will also double as a tie rail, but mainly to prevent the bottom corners getting bent on "I didn't see that there. SORRY about the damage!!!"
    The reason that they don't supply "specified frame strength" details, is that should something go wrong, they would be liable.
    Have seen some shocker trailers built by the home handyman, tandem 8 X 5 trailers with 50 X 50 X 5 for a drawbar, 50 X 50 X 3 for the framing and cross supports
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Toowoomba Qld
    Posts
    401

    Default

    Thanks for the pointers Kryn

    I'll be honest that some of the material choices were based on what is easily / readily available. I'll see if I can get 100x50x3 from some of my cheaper suppliers, if not the extra weight of the 100x50x4 won't be too bad and it will probably be cheaper then the 100x50x3 if I have to get it somewhere else.

    Just checked my checker plate and it might actually be 2.1mm which looks to be the thinnest readily available, it's just what I had on hand. The wheel cutout sheeting will attach to the tray side rail on one side and the support 50x25 on the other side. Will either make it curved or slope up, flat top, slope down so if needed a wheel will roll up and over it, thinking buggies, motorbikes, whatever. Wider loads will no doubt end up sitting on top of them also.

    The tray came with sides and tail gate so will just be using them, also a set of aluminium checker plate mudguards. I may need to shorten the mudguards as the wheels will be sitting partially in the tray but will be pretty easy to do. Pretty sure there was straps to support the mudguards but will make some if there isn't.

    Can you elaborate on this one "The other important piece of info is to plate between the end of the drawbar and the front spring hanger." is this just capping the end of the drawbar so there is a flat surface to weld the hanger to also or something else? My current trailer the drawbar doesn't go all the way back and is just the open end of the RHS so can't copy off how it's done on it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    What I meant by that comment, was that the drawbar is directly connected to the spring hanger. This idea came in some time ago as it was found that chassis were cracking between the drawbar and spring hanger. Have attached a pic to explain better.
    Drawbar-setup-.jpg
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

Similar Threads

  1. Alloy truck tray for trailer
    By Wallie in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 16th Oct 2012, 07:45 AM
  2. Aluminium ute tray trailer
    By Mick72 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 26th Sep 2011, 10:59 PM
  3. Another Tray Trailer
    By GU2001 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 21st Feb 2011, 08:49 AM
  4. Trailer build from dropside ute tray
    By surfin in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 1st Jul 2010, 07:31 PM
  5. Using a ute tray for a trailer
    By spooled in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFF
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 26th Apr 2009, 11:32 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •