Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
-
9th Sep 2020, 08:18 PM #1Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Toowoomba Qld
- Posts
- 401
Steel Single cab ute tray to trailer project
Sso not like I really needed another project but I have made the decision to build a bigger trailer, my box trailer is good but I find its limits every now and again.
I picked up a used, steel ute tray from a single cab ute that will be modified and turned into a trailer. Building trailers is not my area of expertise so those more knowledgeable feel free to offer guidance.
I have a fair idea on most of the design but haven't started the build yet or bought my components so nothing is yet set in stone.
So the requirements
- Need to keep the floor height low, lifting things on and off the trailer is easier if it's lower. Have seen some ute tray to trailer builds where the floor ends up way to high. To keep the height low this means that I will be recessing the wheel arches into the tray floor, like you see on some utes / one tonners
- as there will be wheel arches in the tray floor I want to have at least 1,250mm between the arches so can hold pallets, full sheets of material ect
- single axle only, not uncommon for me to have to move the trailer around the yard manually, sometimes loaded with stuff and single is much easier to turn
- 1,400kg rating minimum, this should net me about 1,000kg carrying capacity, want to be able to carry most of my machines in it if needed.
- 1,200mm drawbar
Components so far
1,400kg or 1,600kg kit if I can find one
- 45mm square axle solid, either ford slimline bearings at 1,400kg or Parallel bearings at 1,600kg
- eye to eye leaf springs
- hydraulic over ride disc brakes, while electric would be preferred it's likely that others will borrow the trailer so need a generic setup and hydraulic discs seem to be the pick of that category
- ford hubs, sunraysia rims, running 185r14 LT tyres, 850kg each load rating should net me 1,700kg rating on tyres, keeps diameter down and width down
- other generic stuff to complete the build, jockey wheel, coupling, LED lights, ect ect
At the moment the bottom of the tray looks like this
Attachment 388565
Basic dimensions that I'm starting with from a quick measure
Total width - 1,915mm
Width between rails - 1,830mm
Total length - 2,385mm
Headboard to back length - 2,340mm
Front to back chassis rails are 65x35x3 RHS
Side to side rails are 50x20x2.5 RHS
tie rails are 27mm round
side tray rails 40mm SHS
Floor is 3mm checkerplate
front to back rails are spaced 1,060-1,080mm measured outside to outside (not totally parallel)
side to side rails outside to outside, front to back are 450, 875, 1460, 1895 & 2120
Plan is something like this
Ute tray underbody hacked.jpg
Red - remove old mounts, remove section of 50x25 RHS where wheel needs to go through, remove section of floor for wheel
Purple - weld in 50x25 RHS to brace around wheel well where section was removed
Blue - 100x50x4 RHS chassis rails & drawbar, drawbar attached at front spring hanger
Brown - 65x35x3 RHS laid on its side so it's 65 wide and 35 high.
Cutout for wheels would be with 255 wide, allowing 185 for wheel / tyre, 3mm each side for sheeting, 30mm gap either side and a couple mm for mismeasurement, should give me just over 1,300mm between the wheel wells.
From there it should just be fit suspension, brakes, wiring, ect
I have had a quick look through the build regs but need to check again as I'm sure I read something prior that specified where the wheel had to be in relation to overall loading area, like % in front of axle vs behind. From reading couldn't really see anything that specified frame strength but I'm thinking that should be strong enough, would rather not put in a chassis rail in the centre as more work and would like the option to use it to store a ramp if I decide to build a ramp for it in the future.
Questions for those more experienced with trailer building
- Have I missed anything obvious or is this not a good idea?
- Suggestions on suppliers, probably best to pick up to save on high postage costs, happy to travel within say 2 hours of Toowoomba, so Brisbane, Sunny or Gold coast
-
9th Sep 2020, 10:52 PM #2Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Your ideas are OK. Your chassis rails and drawbar could be made from 3 mm, which would be sufficient, otherwise your trailer will be overloaded before you put anything on it. We use 3 mm for the main frame and draw bars on our trailers.
The important thing is NOT to weld across the top of the drawbar, along the sides is OK otherwise it will crack. The other important piece of info is to plate between the end of the drawbar and the front spring hanger.
Placement of the axle is worked out at 10 mm back from centre per foot of trailer, 8' long X 10 mm = 80 mm, so your axle centre would be 80 mm back from centre.
I'd also put on side clearance lights, as a precaution.
Here are the contact details for Mullins Wheels/Trailer Parts. Can highly recommend them as they are our main supplier for our trailers/
Queensland
14 Success Street
Acacia Ridge, Qld 4110
Telephone: (07) 3277 8677
Facsimile: (07) 3277 0303
Email: [email protected]
Hope this helps you. If you need anymore info send me a PM or post it here.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
-
11th Sep 2020, 02:34 AM #3Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
Sorry I should have mentioned this in my earlier post.
Instead of using 3 mm for the side sheeting of the mudguard, I'd go 1.6 or similar, helps keep the weight down. Make the whole mudguard out of it. It's going to be heavy enough to move on your own as it is. Run some bracing from the bottom corners of the guards, back to the tray, this will also double as a tie rail, but mainly to prevent the bottom corners getting bent on "I didn't see that there. SORRY about the damage!!!"
The reason that they don't supply "specified frame strength" details, is that should something go wrong, they would be liable.
Have seen some shocker trailers built by the home handyman, tandem 8 X 5 trailers with 50 X 50 X 5 for a drawbar, 50 X 50 X 3 for the framing and cross supportsTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
-
12th Sep 2020, 12:22 AM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2013
- Location
- Toowoomba Qld
- Posts
- 401
Thanks for the pointers Kryn
I'll be honest that some of the material choices were based on what is easily / readily available. I'll see if I can get 100x50x3 from some of my cheaper suppliers, if not the extra weight of the 100x50x4 won't be too bad and it will probably be cheaper then the 100x50x3 if I have to get it somewhere else.
Just checked my checker plate and it might actually be 2.1mm which looks to be the thinnest readily available, it's just what I had on hand. The wheel cutout sheeting will attach to the tray side rail on one side and the support 50x25 on the other side. Will either make it curved or slope up, flat top, slope down so if needed a wheel will roll up and over it, thinking buggies, motorbikes, whatever. Wider loads will no doubt end up sitting on top of them also.
The tray came with sides and tail gate so will just be using them, also a set of aluminium checker plate mudguards. I may need to shorten the mudguards as the wheels will be sitting partially in the tray but will be pretty easy to do. Pretty sure there was straps to support the mudguards but will make some if there isn't.
Can you elaborate on this one "The other important piece of info is to plate between the end of the drawbar and the front spring hanger." is this just capping the end of the drawbar so there is a flat surface to weld the hanger to also or something else? My current trailer the drawbar doesn't go all the way back and is just the open end of the RHS so can't copy off how it's done on it.
-
12th Sep 2020, 05:43 PM #5Most Valued Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge S Aust.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 5,959
What I meant by that comment, was that the drawbar is directly connected to the spring hanger. This idea came in some time ago as it was found that chassis were cracking between the drawbar and spring hanger. Have attached a pic to explain better.
Drawbar-setup-.jpg
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
Similar Threads
-
Alloy truck tray for trailer
By Wallie in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 6Last Post: 16th Oct 2012, 07:45 AM -
Aluminium ute tray trailer
By Mick72 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 13Last Post: 26th Sep 2011, 10:59 PM -
Another Tray Trailer
By GU2001 in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 31Last Post: 21st Feb 2011, 08:49 AM -
Trailer build from dropside ute tray
By surfin in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 7Last Post: 1st Jul 2010, 07:31 PM -
Using a ute tray for a trailer
By spooled in forum TRAILERS & OTHER FABRICATED STUFFReplies: 12Last Post: 26th Apr 2009, 11:32 PM