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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    56
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    1,183

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    These are the carbides i bought https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-10-CC...6-80ce49c9c245 does it matter that they are gold? I have seen the carbides for cutting hard steel are grey or black



    1) I think the dark grey uncoated ones used to be a little cheaper (when the gold coatings were something new). With mostly all carbide being made in China, it doesn't seem true any more.

    The gold coating is just an anti-wear surface. There are at least 2 different grades of that coating, and then there are purplish-black coatings, and "blue-nano" whatever that does. Plus, the shiny silver coatings on inserts meant for Aluminium.



    2) The 6mm carbide I have:
    IMG_0638.jpg
    actually has a rating on it "AR4 - C2". There are different grades of carbide (see Tungsten Carbide Grades), and C2 is probably not meant for steel; although it hasn't melted the braze much, but note the blistered paint.



    3) In terms of brazing your inserts, I have never done that. It might be worth roughing up the surface with a diamond file. Having the insert in a slot in your steel might also be a stronger job.


    4) I think there are 6mm holders available: https://www.amazon.com/OMEX-INDEXABL.../dp/B01K1LG3EO

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Thanks Nigel i dont wanna ruin other peoples tools mate, i picked up the 2 brazing rods today

    Not sure how im going to drill my mt2 shaft for the boring head i may weld a drill bit to the bottom of the box and spin up the shaft than use a round file and spin the shaft up than try to file out to the mt2 size do u guys think that will work or am i dreaming with high tensile steel?

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    1,536

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    This is one of those moments you need to take stock of your random thinking and apply some logic...
    If you need carbide to cut it then a file certainly won’t.

    None of what you suggest would be anywhere near accurate enough for what you are making. It needs to be held in a chuck bored and reamed to even have a sporting chance of working.

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Yeah i understand that Racing my only options are to have a boring bar thru the rod sideways and sticking out it can still be accurite in making precise cuts its just not as easy as turning a screw with a genuine boring head

    A genuine porpous made boring bar tool actually uses a hss tool bit sticking out the side of the shaft and they use a pre bored adaptor plate for adjusting the hss tool

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Like in this video i will need to fab one of thos hss tool measuring block thingys

    https://youtu.be/aCrk7tegtm8

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Thanks Nigel i dont wanna ruin other peoples tools mate, i picked up the 2 brazing rods today

    Not sure how im going to drill my mt2 shaft for the boring head i may weld a drill bit to the bottom of the box and spin up the shaft than use a round file and spin the shaft up than try to file out to the mt2 size do u guys think that will work or am i dreaming with high tensile steel?
    Are you trying to produce a M/T 2 taper or only trying to produce a bore that a M/T 2 taper will fit through?

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    1,836

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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Are you trying to produce a M/T 2 taper or only trying to produce a bore that a M/T 2 taper will fit through?
    Hey Pipe a mt2 bore that a mt2 fitting will slide into

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    831

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    These are the carbides i bought https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AU-10-CC...6-80ce49c9c245 does it matter that they are gold? I have seen the carbides for cutting hard steel are grey or black
    You do realize that the TiNite coating has to be removed for silver brazing?

  9. #99
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Should i see if my bunnings has this SBA rod
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/consolid...stick_p5060118
    Or should u buy this 2 pack?
    https://www.bunnings.com.au/silver-b...s-2pk_p5910514
    Don't get those rods, they're for plumbing copper pipes and the likes, has a reasonably low melting point. That price, if it was the proper stuff, would have a 2 in front of it, as others have mentioned, it's not cheap, but you don't need much. Apply the flux to both surfaces, and heat it till the steel is about a dull red and apply the rod, the heat of the metal should be enough to melt the rod and allow it to join. Put the rod where the 2 surfaces meet.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  10. #100
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Bugger i just bought these rods today https://www.bunnings.com.au/silver-b...s-2pk_p5910514

    Where do i buy the right rods?

  11. #101
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North Brisbane. Qld. Australia
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,511

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    Google SBA245. Get the 1.6mm.
    Nev.

  12. #102
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    They cost $99 Nev for that money i would rather a proper tool with screw down carbide tips

    There is a aussie guy on youtube who uses strair copper from wiring to braze his carbide tips i will try that tomorrow if that fails i will just buy the proper tool and get on with the job

  13. #103
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    1,536

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    SBA245 is still silver solder, so it has a melt point similar to the rods you got from Bunnings. The difference is you purchased 2% silver content SBA245 is 45% silver. Silver content doesn’t affect melt point to any great degree, the melt point of silver solder is somewhere around 600C from memory so it’s significantly higher than soft solder at something around 350ish. You’ve already proved soft solder was strong enough to retain the tip, it just wasn’t up for the temperature (there are ways to mitigate that). 2% silver is stronger than soft solder. You have the rods, you have the torch, everything else you are doing is largely experimental so there really is no reason not to have a crack and see if it works

  14. #104
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Hey Racing i bought the 5% only ones my local bunnings had i'll try these rods if that fails i'll try copper wire if that fails too i'll just rig up a small water bottle and maybe modify a aluminium foil baking tray to catch the water

    I just found this video on youtube https://youtu.be/E0lplvWnGKg looks like i will make the shaft/boring head adapt like that instead of the mt2

  15. #105
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Riddells Creek, Vic.
    Posts
    831

    Default

    The melting point of Copper is around 1080 degrees C.

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