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  1. #1
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    Default Adding a Cage to my Trailer

    It occurred to me that a (removable) cage would be a handy addition to my little trailer, however, I've never looked at one close up to see how the corners are configured. Anyone have any links showing how a typical one goes together?

    For starters, I assume you'd want sockets at each corner to receive corresponding legs from the side panels. I'm wondering if I'd need an additional socket along the side...
    IMG_2803.jpg

    Mine has these 50x50 uprights in each corner, I'm thinking I could cut out the checkerplate to expose the inside of the tube, and maybe add a hole at the bottom to allow water to escape.

  2. #2
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    Default

    Hi Rusty Arc, If you wanted your cage in separate pieces, you could do as per your suggestion. When you want to join the sides to the front and rear gates, they could be locked together with tubes and pinsTrailer hinge.jpg. Making them long like this reduces the amount of rattling, but does make them susceptible to damage if it's loaned out.
    A similar setup is also used, but using shorter pins and 3 tubes, 2 welded onto one section and the 3rd welded in the middle of the 2 that were weldedt the other section.
    This needs to be done to the top and bottom on each corner.

    Another alternative is a piece of flat bar welded top and bottom of the front and back gates, and holes drilled in the corresponding side section, with a suitable bolt welded in place. To hinge the gate, a combination of the above will result.
    This is a much better result as there is no rattling of the cage.
    There are other ways of doing the cage using overcentre catches, Drop pins as used on the LandRover back gate (Ute version).

    If you wanted the cage as one piece, use some 50 X 50 X 3 angle on the sides, so that one lip sits down inside the trailer and the other on the top side of the trailer. Bolting it down with a bolt in each end will suffice. Build your frame on this.
    HTH,
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #3
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    Default

    If you want walls that will stand on their own then they will need to slide down into sockets to support them, if you want a cage all the way round then it can just sit on the top of the sides and be bolted or held in place with some sort of quick release clips.

    I will get some pictures when it is light outside of the setup I build for my trailer, just a tube frame to support the tarpaulin cover, takes about 5 minutes to remove or install.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Thanks Kryn - great ideas as always.

    I've had a chance to do a bit of Googling and I've spent a while peering closely at pics of how others have done it. Clearly it's not a complicated thing, and most have done some variation of what you've suggested. I do want it to be a 4 panel setup so I can remove it and store it flat.

    Two ideas that caught my attention - I could add my own RHS sockets that sit outside the side rail in each corner, and attach to the side panels in an offset manner. The sockets would be open top and bottom, so not risk of accumulating moisture.

    The other is making the back panel a bit taller and add a bit more to it, so it can do double-duty as a loading ramp.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    If you want walls that will stand on their own then they will need to slide down into sockets to support them, if you want a cage all the way round then it can just sit on the top of the sides and be bolted or held in place with some sort of quick release clips.

    I will get some pictures when it is light outside of the setup I build for my trailer, just a tube frame to support the tarpaulin cover, takes about 5 minutes to remove or install.
    Ahh, cheers. Your response came in while I was responding to Kryn's post.

    The cage will be all around, so some kind of retention to the side rails is an option, and might make things a bit simpler.

  6. #6
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    Default

    With your comment about a loading ramp, what do you intend to drive/push up there?
    If you do make it a loading ramp, make it as a separate thing from the tailgate, you remove the short gate to fit the long one, the reason being if the long get bent, you can still use the short gate.
    Just a side note, don't make it too long as they catch a lot of wind, or if you have to have it long, use something like expanded mesh to cut help back on wind drag.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    With your comment about a loading ramp, what do you intend to drive/push up there?
    A Dingo and a little Kubota tractor, both are only around 900kg. This setup here looks like it could work:
    https://www.adelaidetrailersales.com...-and-tailgate/

    The current tailgate is removable, so I could use the same hinges, assuming they're strong enough.

  8. #8
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    I'd use 75X50X5 for the angle section as it'll give the most strength without the weight, or same size RHS in a 3mm wall thickness on the outer frame. Your hinge pins ideally would want to be 16mm if only 2 or 12mm for 3 of them, as a minimum. A very good idea, is to make the pins/tubes a bit longer, so that you don't have too try to get them aligned at the same time, saves a lot of frustration later.
    You could also make it a bifold, so that it didn't poke up in the air to much.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #9
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    Default

    The back ramp could also be handy without the cage, as per this trailer from the same mob:
    https://www.adelaidetrailersales.com...3.03.58-PM.png

    More pics here:
    https://www.adelaidetrailersales.com...lgate-trailer/

    But I'm wondering what's carrying the weight when a machine rolls up the ramp? They look to have angle on each side, so the raised ramp can be held in place with the fairly standard latches, but I'm thinking it's the RHS that will be where the wheels are running. I note, as Kryn suggested, that they've used 3 hinges - mine look to be around the 1/2" variety, and I could add a 3rd one in the middle.

    The ramp that mob do looks to be around 1200 long, which is longer than I think I'd need for the tractor or Dingo, but I do have some mowers where the deck would probably bottom out if it was too steep, but I rarely, if ever take them anywhere.

  10. #10
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    Default

    That sounds about the right length, again depending on what size wheels and how the axle is located. If it has 16" wheels and springs on top of the axle, it will raise the trailer body, so that a 1200 long ramp could be a bit short on the Ramp Over.
    I'd check the ramp over on your tractor and Dingo to see that you have enough clearance under them.
    If you do need to run the mower up the ramp, you could make an extension that can be bolted on as a folding section as the need arises.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  11. #11
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    Default

    Here are pictures of what I was talking about.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #12
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    Default Sketchup Time

    So I've come up with this so far:
    Trailer Cage and Ramp Up v1.jpgTrailer Cage and Ramp Down v1.jpg

    Cage sides are 40x40x1.6 RHS frame with 50x50x4 mesh. Will have to work out how heavy that is...

    Tail ramp is 75x50x2 RHS and 75x50x3 angle.

    This beam deflection calculator here:
    Beam deflection and stress calculator

    claims that a 1200 long piece of 50x50x2 RHS will only deflect 4.7mm with a 400kg load (which would be the per-wheel load of a 1,600kg vehicle, just above the limit of the trailer), so I could do the same frame in 50x50 RHS and angle,saving weight, but not entirely sure if I believe those numbers. I've got plenty of offcuts of 50x50 in 1.6 and 2mm around the place, and a dingo for mass. If I get everything level, each front wheel should be around 250 kg...

  13. #13
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    Default

    Your design is excellent. The section that goes on the ground, how much is that?
    Just wondering if the wheels will go up there OK, or are you planning on putting some flat across there to create a smooth entry/exit point?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  14. #14
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    Thumbs up

    Oops. Forgot to mention there'd be expanded metal mesh over that ramp.

    There's a few wrinkles to sort out in the last 200mm or so near the ground.

    However, the first issue to sort out is weight. The side cage panels, as specced, come out to 30kg each, which seems kind of manageable. The tail ramp with 50x75 sections comes out to 67kg, which strikes me as unmanageable for one person to fit - once fitted, lifting and lowering would be OK, as the weight involved would be halved, but I do want the option to swap in the original tailgate as needed.

    If I can get away with 50x50 sections, the weight drops to 51kg, which still seems maybe a bit much. The limiting factor is the expanded metal mesh - that alone is 32kg for FM14 mesh, and I'm not even sure if that's the right mesh for the application - I've never worked with expanded metal.

  15. #15
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    You could go to a lighter mesh by placing angle or RHS where the wheels go. The reason I suggested different length pins, was to assist with putting the ramp on. If the ramp was placed on a couple of blocks, it could then be slid onto the pins, or you could use your front end loader, to assist in putting it on.
    If you find it's too heavy to lift up, look at using a gas strut or 2, have seen them being used on horse floats, if you need to get dimensions, ideas?
    How did you get on with your mulch spreader???
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

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