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Thread: 6x4 trailer panels question
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27th Nov 2018, 02:35 PM #1Most Valued Member
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6x4 trailer panels question
Hi all,
I'm finally going to pull my finger out and build a multipurpose use 6x4 trailer. Multipurpose being that I want to take it off road as a gear carrying trailer AND I want to be able to use it to carry a decent amount (approx 1 tonne) of firewood.
I have bought plans for a single axle 6x4 trailer with ATM of up to 1600kg (they also include structural sizing for 1200kg too) and so the basic frame and drawbar and pretty squared away as is the trailing arm independent suspension; however it's the side and rear panels that I am still deciding on.
I am seriously looking at the panel kits you can buy, similar to these pressed sheet panels:https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRAILER-...bnPK:rk:1:pf:0
Question is regarding the fixing of the side panels to the rear panel. Being pressed into a pattern to increase strength, you cannot simply weld one panel to the other. You need to place a piece of SHS upright that both panels weld to. This seems like a good plan but by doing this, you effectively increase your floor area by the amount that the panels weld to the square uprights. This means that a 6x4 trailer would need a slightly larger size of floor sheeting. Seems like a PITA in terms of sheet size and waist/cost.
An I missing something?
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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27th Nov 2018, 06:40 PM #2Most Valued Member
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Feel free to ignore this thread. I pretty much answered my own question!
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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27th Nov 2018, 09:31 PM #3Most Valued Member
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Hi Simon, That price is a RIP OFF, you'll still need a floor sheet and mudguards on top of that $640 plus freight as well!!!
You should be able to find a sheetmetal place that can bend the sheet for you, no need for fancy ribs on the side, it'll just be another place to accumulate mud and crap. I'd also suggest that the front and rear tailgates be made to drop down, handy if you need to carry something that bit longer. Can supply you with a drawing of the panels and how to attach them, if required.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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28th Nov 2018, 10:36 AM #4Senior Member
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28th Nov 2018, 08:05 PM #5Most Valued Member
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28th Nov 2018, 09:05 PM #6Most Valued Member
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Hi Bikerider. Pretty much exactly what Nev just said.
I'll attach a photo of a sketch that may explain.
Edit: first pic is NOT what to do. Second is how it should be done.
Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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28th Nov 2018, 09:13 PM #7Most Valued Member
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Thanks KB. I have a local steel supplier that I enjoy a good relationship with. They also do fabrication and sheet folding. Flat sheets would give more flexibility in the fabrication of the trailer. I guess I could enquire about the cost for them to supply and fold. I just figured that a company that is set up to do this would be the most competitive in price. Freight is not bad, at around $120.
I would be interested in any drawings you have on the panels.
The floor I was going to source locally anyway, being a piece of flat 6x4 in gal sheet.
Cheers,
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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29th Nov 2018, 11:19 AM #8Senior Member
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Simon,
Thanks for the explanation. That is how I assumed these panels are used (your second pic), so I didn't understand your question.
The commercial trailer I've had for 15 years has the sides welded as you describe at the base, so a standard sheet fits as the floor, but the tops are splayed out to the outer extent of the SHS, so the sides are not sitting vertically. I guess they did this to provide a slightly wider top opening. It a bit bodgey when you look at it, but that extra width is worthwhile having. Of course, if the depth of the folds in the sides is equal to the dimension of the SHS this trick won't work.
Graham.
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30th Nov 2018, 06:25 AM #9Most Valued Member
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Yea, i get what you're saying Graham. Nothing wrong with splaying the sides out, you maximise the available volume without adding any extra cost.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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9th Dec 2018, 10:38 AM #10Most Valued Member
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Kryn,
I got a quote from my local steel supplier for 4 sheets, 2 sides, front and rear. In 1.6mm gal sheet it will be approx. $350. I say approx. because I will make some small changes to the drawings I supplied for the quote but it will be around that price. 5 mins down the road means no delivery too so it's a good price for me. Obviously I need a floor sheet too and mudguards but the quote was more to use as a comparison to the other crowd.
The mudguards I may make myself. I am keen on making lockers on the sides in the spot fore and aft of the mudguards. This can hold things like recovery gear, chainsaw, LGP bottle and other fuels etc. It's otherwise dead space and I always struggle finding a nice dedicated spot for the chainsaw etc.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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9th Dec 2018, 11:33 PM #11Most Valued Member
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Hi Simon, as you're puting tool boxes and storage lockers in there, I'd get the sides folded like a large W, a 25mm lip, then fold to 90 degrees 300mm high, 90deg bend 250mm wide away from the lip down 25mm then another 25mm return and another 25mm down. The 25mm lip on the bottom is for the sheet to sit on, the 300 is the sides, the 250 is the top of the mudguard, while the 2X25s are return folds for the door to sit in. You'd need to make a couple of pieces the same as the top section, which'll be the bottom of the boxes. The doors would be about 15mm thick overall, that will give you room for pinchmold to give a dustproof seal.
Hopefully you'll get the gist of the description.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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10th Dec 2018, 07:49 AM #12Most Valued Member
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Hi Kryn,
Sorry mate, you have lost me. Can you draw up a quick sketch?
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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13th Jan 2019, 10:06 AM #13
Hey Simon.
How's your trailer coming along? Couple of tips if you haven't gone too far yet.
Firstly, to maximise your carrying capacity, look at increasing the side height from 300mm (12") to 450mm (18").
Secondly, where your second drawing shows the side panels correctly being welded to the inside of the SHS uprights, the front panel and rear tailgate should be on the outside of these uprights. This allows the floor plate to sit on top of the front & rear cross rails. Also, if you're getting a Metric Floor plate (1800 x 1200mm) then I suggest making your chassis perimeter at 1830 x 1220.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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